Matching Brake Rotors to Wheel Hubs

TravMac

Well-Known Member
This may seem like a silly title, but I think is a legitimate thread. Looking at all sorts of wheel/tire combinations for building my budget, I've realized that everything really depends on the hub I want to run (stock 5x110, 5x114.3, 4x100). Then I start thinking about rotor and pad combinations that would best fit the selected hub. With that said, I have a few questions that continue to stump me:

(Note: options would have the parking brake option for the rear on this build)

1) From stock SS, re-drilling the hub or using an adapter to get the 5x114.3 bolt pattern would call for a different rotor pattern as well. How is this currently handled? Are the stock 5 bolt SS hubs just clocked and re-drilled as 5x114.3? Are base 4 bolt rotors re-drilled? Maybe there is a different rotor that would already fit the bolt pattern? Maybe a different bearing all together?

2) Has anyone run a different pad/rotor combo on their goblin? I have typically run EBC Yellow Stuff pads and matching rotors for all my track setups and burn through them fast. I'd love to plan for the same here, but unsure how this would be handled in this application. Even if I didn't run their rotors, I'd probably still like their pads in the long run.

3) What is the current rotor from? I have seen pad numbers floating around, but didn't know what rotors the kit uses. Or maybe I've read it and cant remember :p

Thanks all!
 

Indy Lonnie

Well-Known Member
I went front: 15 x 7.5 ET 35 with 4x100 -205/50R15 tires and rear: 17x9 ET 40 with 5x114.3 - tires 255/40R17. I think the stance is perfect. The rear tire height is the exact same as my Cobalt (no speedo issues). I had Lonny drill the rear rotors and hubs. It is also what the Ariel Atom comes with... You will not need special pads or rotors. What comes with the kit is more than enough. I believe the front hubs are Honda. I got pads from Advanced Auto. Next to the top ceramic pads. The rear fenders are perfect, the front I think were designed for 16" 205 tires.

IMG_4459.JPG
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
This may seem like a silly title, but I think is a legitimate thread. Looking at all sorts of wheel/tire combinations for building my budget, I've realized that everything really depends on the hub I want to run (stock 5x110, 5x114.3, 4x100). Then I start thinking about rotor and pad combinations that would best fit the selected hub. With that said, I have a few questions that continue to stump me:

(Note: options would have the parking brake option for the rear on this build)

1) From stock SS, re-drilling the hub or using an adapter to get the 5x114.3 bolt pattern would call for a different rotor pattern as well. How is this currently handled? Are the stock 5 bolt SS hubs just clocked and re-drilled as 5x114.3? Are base 4 bolt rotors re-drilled? Maybe there is a different rotor that would already fit the bolt pattern? Maybe a different bearing all together?

2) Has anyone run a different pad/rotor combo on their goblin? I have typically run EBC Yellow Stuff pads and matching rotors for all my track setups and burn through them fast. I'd love to plan for the same here, but unsure how this would be handled in this application. Even if I didn't run their rotors, I'd probably still like their pads in the long run.

3) What is the current rotor from? I have seen pad numbers floating around, but didn't know what rotors the kit uses. Or maybe I've read it and cant remember :p

Thanks all!
1) DF can redrill your hubs to 5x114.3, and also elongate the rotors (from 5x110 to 5x114.3).
If you are planning on running wide wheels, then spacers can convert the 5x110 to 5x114.3. That is the option I went with.

2) For pads I used:
Centric Posi Quiet Premium Ceramic pads from https://www.carid.com/
Front brake pads for 2009 Cobalt base model
39.49
Rear brake pads for 2009 Pontiac Solstice (with DF parking brake feature)31.53
The brakes are plenty strong, even with R rated rubber, 315mm wide, the brakes are too strong. I am need to add a vacuum controller to reduce the power assist on the brakes.

3) I'm not sure what the brake rotors are from. For pads I used:
 

TravMac

Well-Known Member
I appreciate the feedback so far! I understand that stock brakes may be "over powered" for the build, but I'm more concerned with pad life and heat cycling on track. I've tested a few compounds I really like, and am curious about how they would effect this build. That being said, I am glad to know that those calipers have lots of new pad options to test out!

I've been looking towards builds like JustinReed's in terms of wheel/tire size for making a serious race contender. I'd like to avoid spacers, but having ones made that still create a hub-centric mount to the wheel like Ross would be a preferred option if I went that route.

By the sounds of it, the rotors are a bit of a concern - if one ends up not working out, I will need to have a new set re-drilled. Might be worth making a jig to do it. Something fun to look into. Are they the same size rotors all around?

I still wonder though, are the 4 bolt rotors/hubs redrilled to the 5 bolt? Are 5 bolt rotors/hubs redrilled to 5 bolt of a different diameter? I'd prefer the latter, but unsure what is provided/an option.

Thanks again all!
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The 5x110 get redrilled to 5x114.3. Not sure if anyone has redrilled the 4x100 hubs.
 

Indy Lonnie

Well-Known Member
FYI - My 4x100 front hubs, I had to use hub-centric rings to center the Duralast rotor and then another hub-centric ring to center the wheel. That is why I think they are from a Honda.

From personal experience, the Centric Premium rotors are great. I have 150,000+ miles on a set on my Odyssey with no vibration, and 120,000 miles on a set on a Grand Cherokee. The Grand Cherokee had major warpage issues from the factory. I went through 3 sets of Mopar rotors on the Grand Cherokee in 36,000 miles until it went off warranty. The Centric rotors fixed my issues, both solid and vented. BUT they are HEAVY...
 
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