So I read online that if your boost gauge read boost when hitting the throttle in neutral it could be a faulty MAP sensor this is my case.If you want to be cost conscious i would start with the MAP sensor.
Please take a photo if you are able I have off today so I’m replacing the charger intake MAP sensor that had a crack in the housing it may work but it’s better to be safe. The MAF sensors that both use the same plug may or may not be plugged up correct. I do know when I unplug the MAF in the intake the car isles terribly.On the SS/SC, there are two MAP sensors. One is ambient (for reference) and the other is in the intake. The problem is both connectors are the exact same. Make sure to have them plugged into the correct sensor. If I was at home, I could get you the wire color for each. That is about the only way to tell the difference.
It may be a ground issue at this point I’m not too worried. Someone suggested grounding the BCM chassis I thought?Glad you got it fixed. I'm curious about your gauges. Not sure why your security light stays on and the display shows --------. I wonder if there is an issue with the low speed green wires. Then again it might be a ground problem too. Seems like 80% of the issues here are ground related.
I can't wrap my head around "leak inside the trans" being a brake issue. I'm not sure what you mean by this.Follow-up the supercharger upper MAP sensor is replaced and she’s hauling! Unfortuntly I have low pressure on my brake line even though I don’t see bubbles I may have a leak inside the trans due to the upper block upper gromet or the line inside which would mean dropping the engine . I am going to rebleed brakes first.
But my hopes are high she’s running!
Thanks for the connector I’ll double check it. The line in the trans may be leaking but now that I think through the reason my pedal hits the floor it is unrelated they share he same reservoir but not the same hydrolic system. I probably have air somewhere I’ll bleed tonight or tomorrow.I can't wrap my head around "leak inside the trans" being a brake issue. I'm not sure what you mean by this.
Glad to see the MAP fixed the issue.
Here are the colors of the wires of the MAP on the supercharger any ways.
View attachment 6429
Oh, you are referring to the clutch. I was thinking automatic transmission. Yes, two completely different systems.Thanks for the connector I’ll double check it. The line in the trans may be leaking but now that I think through the reason my pedal hits the floor it is unrelated they share he same reservoir but not the same hydrolic system. I probably have air somewhere I’ll bleed tonight or tomorrow.
Thanks
Brakes are great! Lonny recommended going the old style pushing brake pedal and popping bleeder this worked! It actually makes sense the bleeder kit I had that pressurizes the system works great for replacing fluid and getting air out of the line but it won’t help with the master cylinder if air is captured.Oh, you are referring to the clutch. I was thinking automatic transmission. Yes, two completely different systems.
I'd venture to guess this is tied to your security light, very peculiar. But i did not experience that.Brakes are great! Lonny recommended going the old style pushing brake pedal and popping bleeder this worked! It actually makes sense the bleeder kit I had that pressurizes the system works great for replacing fluid and getting air out of the line but it won’t help with the master cylinder if air is captured.
I found another problem which I should have saw a long time ago none of my gauges work lol. They all light up but don’t actually function. Any ideas?
You may be missing the Low Speed Data circuit. It's the dark green wire. There was a bunch of them all going to one big black molded connection that the video had you cut out and solder together. Pin 9, I believe. Those lines carry all of the information. And obviously there needs to be a ground to the dash.I found another problem which I should have saw a long time ago none of my gauges work lol. They all light up but don’t actually function. Any ideas?
You may be missing the Low Speed Data circuit. It's the dark green wire. There was a bunch of them all going to one big black molded connection that the video had you cut out and solder together. Pin 9, I believe. Those lines carry all of the information. And obviously there needs to be a ground to the dash.
The illumination is a completely different circuit and 100% isolated from the rest of the dash. I know this because I just reworked ours with LEDs. Those are Pin 1 and 8 of the dash harness (top right and lower right looking from the rear of the dash).
Your are correct pin 9 circuit 5060 is for the low speed data circuit of the instrument panel plug. It looks like it routes back to the BCM-C1 plug. What's odd is (2) PINs for that circuit 5060 pin 18, and 36 (shown below) are depicted on the BCM-C1 plug.You may be missing the Low Speed Data circuit. It's the dark green wire. There was a bunch of them all going to one big black molded connection that the video had you cut out and solder together. Pin 9, I believe. Those lines carry all of the information. And obviously there needs to be a ground to the dash.
The illumination is a completely different circuit and 100% isolated from the rest of the dash. I know this because I just reworked ours with LEDs. Those are Pin 1 and 8 of the dash harness (top right and lower right looking from the rear of the dash).
Pin C1 36 is abandon. It went to the Vehicle Communication Module that was removed. This is part of the OnStar system.I believe the next logical step is to test from pin 9 of the instrument panel plug to the BCM-C1 pins 18, and 36 to see which one has continuity.