ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC LSD North Carolina

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
You sir know your wiring between my research, your instruction, and continuity testing I was able to cut one of the green wires out of the OBD plug, wire from pin 9 to C2 38. Pin 14 to C2 11 I also made sure was soldered in. Now we’re in business all gauges work including gas gauge and the security key icon is now gone. While I had the instrument panel partially off I went ahead and followed your guide and razer blade all circuits for faulty lights now the instrument panel looks stock. I have to make some adjuments to the rear taillights and install seat belts then I am ready for state inspection!

Thanks for your help your a huge value to the community.
That puts a smile on my face to hear that it’s working for you now! Congratulations! I’ll bet it sure is a great relief to get that behind you.

And it’s easy to help those that can help themselves. You did the work!
 

ncgoblin

Well-Known Member
seatbelt install time! Does anyone have pictures of the seatbelt install? I can guess based on mount points but it would help with some visuals I cannot seem to find a write-up on the site.

Edit: This is for the 5 point harness and corbeu seats not oem belts
Thanks!
 

ncgoblin

Well-Known Member
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I have set my rear camber to 1.5 and am wondering based on the pavement markings on my tire after driving around neighborhood if I should bring it out to 1. I have 275s in the rear and I believe the 1.5 recommendation is for 215s/235s.
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
View attachment 6474 I have set my rear camber to 1.5 and am wondering based on the pavement markings on my tire after driving around neighborhood if I should bring it out to 1. I have 275s in the rear and I believe the 1.5 recommendation is for 215s/235s.
It really kind of depends on how you plan to drive it. If you are just running around town and cruising, you don't lots of negative camber. If you want to hard corner at an autocross, the extra negative camber will help.

As you push hard into a corner (left turn in this case here) the tire will tend to stand up more (less camber) and then will even out more (ride on more on the outside of the tire). My experience (which I am not claiming to be an expert by any means) with setting up the suspension, the more negative camber you have, the more stable but potential less grippy traction you have. The closer it is to zero, the better the cornering traction until it just gives up violently.
 

ncgoblin

Well-Known Member
Some valid points. Brad you know I bet when they mounted them they put the standard 35 psi which is way too much ive been so busy jumping from task to task never even crossed my mind. What are you guys running for daily driving pressure?
 
I brought the car for another ride tonight but noticed some issues. On acceleration when I push the car to the floor it bogs down but if I do a gradual acceleration its fine. I had a more severe issue last week in the video I linked that was the supercharger sensor so I thought since I also bought a MAP sensor I would try it that did not make a difference. I noticed others are not using a breather filter like myself on the valve cover I had the impression the hose was not required so I installed the filter could this be a problem?

Please take a look at the pictures below does anything stand out incorrect?

I appreciate it.
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Im totally new to SC's but the ZZP install guide i have in front of me says the "the lower hose port on the supercharger bypass valve is left without a hose connected to it so it can vent to the atmosphere".... No idea how the stock SS/SC's come. Just reading their install manual.
 
I use the same breather. No issues here. That's for crankcase venting. As long as it vents, it shouldn't be an issue.

I'll verify some of the bypass hoses, etc. here in a minute.

We need to make sure you have the correct connection for the O2 sensor. You want the pre-cat hooked up, not the post-cat.
 
I use the same breather. No issues here. That's for crankcase venting. As long as it vents, it shouldn't be an issue.

I'll verify some of the bypass hoses, etc. here in a minute.

We need to make sure you have the correct connection for the O2 sensor. You want the pre-cat hooked up, not the post-cat.
I have both o2 sensors installed.

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You are correct that it detects operation after cat. I cant imagine its that smart, only concern would be if it recognizes that pre and post cat are the same gas mixture which would indicate inop cat. Easy way to tell is disconnect rear O2 and run it again. No idea if it thinks that way... just trying to help rule out
 
You are correct that it detects operation after cat. I cant imagine its that smart, only concern would be if it recognizes that pre and post cat are the same gas mixture which would indicate inop cat. Easy way to tell is disconnect rear O2 and run it again. No idea if it thinks that way... just trying to help rule out
I agree. It's proven that they run without the post-cat. I'd unplug it just to see if it could be causing issues.
 

Karter2026

Well-Known Member
You are correct that it detects operation after cat. I cant imagine its that smart, only concern would be if it recognizes that pre and post cat are the same gas mixture which would indicate inop cat. Easy way to tell is disconnect rear O2 and run it again. No idea if it thinks that way... just trying to help rule out
Correct it will be a PO420 or PO430 code it will throw for inop cat.
The 449 and 452 codes are for the EVAP system that you most likely do not have.