ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC North Carolina

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
It has been such a long time since I have ordered custom wheels it did not cross my mind to order hub centric rings. I ended up ordering 4x100 57.1mm ID to 73.1mm OD aluminum hub centric rings off Amazon $10 they lined up perfect for my Konig Dekagram front wheels. For the rear because I have 9" wheel Dekagram wheels 5x114.7 I ended up reaching out to a company in Nevada (motorsport-tech.com). They machined 2 rear 1" spacers 5x110 65.1 to 5x114.3 73.1 12x1.5 Studs & Lug the cost was $155 shipped. I could not find anywhere that could provide 110 to 114.7 1" and hub centric rings machined all in one. These guys were quick and easy and US Made.

Onto another subject I came across a forum post that listed all the torque values does anyone have this handy? I cannot seem to find it with the search.

Machined Rear
IMG_1150.JPG

IMG_1151.JPG



Comparison to original (left) without hub centric ring.
IMG_1152.JPG


Thanks!
 
Last edited:

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
Looks good. Certainly more elegant than my solution, a PanaVise BarGrip XL clamp and 1/4-20 ball mount with a FUGOO Tough speaker.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Where did you get your gauge pod? How is the sound out of those speakers?
SliderR1 3d printed it for me. He did a great job. He also did my license plate mount. The sound is plenty loud and clear I am actually amazed at the quality for the price point. There is 0 bass someday I would like to find a sub but not too concerned at this point the engine sound is great.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
The build is going through a few more small finishing touches. The next big step is to upgrade the charger pulley and start autocrossing it. I brought the car for a ride today it was 73 degrees and I just thought man this was an awesome experience and appreciate what the DF team has done.
474F9AE4-1237-4E0E-AB34-1450AB944DAB.jpeg
E14D11A4-E7EE-4D08-9E41-59FB8919E6AC.jpeg
4CD14627-282A-4364-B7B1-F9C60FB63267.jpeg
DCE7B53D-1F7E-499B-8386-33A7FECA8052.jpeg
49544E5D-7A39-49BF-990A-04700E1B2FA9.jpeg

1C7955F5-36B7-43C4-95BD-F020F1C38AD4.jpeg
 

Attachments

Last edited:

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
The diode that Lonny recommended has resolved my problem with the heat exchanger causing the car to sputter while turning off. I am going to send the remaining ones back to Lonny and Adam to hopefully share with future builds.
Wow going through your forum and I found a few items I need to do to mine including this diode. Thanks for writing it all up.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Hey guys I am trying to find the coolant overflow tank hose to the engine. I know I saw a post on this site with numbers but cannot seem to find it now. I have a long hose I wrapped on the outer side of the engine but since i have that post now it bugs me :)
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Last night I installed the new DF supplied 3D printed steering wheel spacer that was shown on the Front Page Video. This was a small but great quality of life improvement I constantly was hitting the turn signal. Installation was easy I had to purchase longer bolts that is it. Adam really did a great job on the fitment as always excellent service from DF.


Remove the washer and install bolt without the wheel.

9801


Install Spacer and Wheel
9802


9803


9804


Low Beam
9805


High Beam
9806
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
I agree with JSATX.
With something as critical as steering, an aluminum steering wheel spacer is inexpensive and won't have the possibility of crushing/compacting while in use.
I think it's a great idea to be able to print and test which thickness works best for a person. Then build or purchase one in a metal version.
Here's an example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-13320/

20190907_192216.jpg
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Hey guys been a while since my last update I have been busy with the autocross and holidays. I finally installed the smaller charger pulley and #60 injectors I am at about 240whp/260wtq. I am tackling my fuel gauge now that has never been accurate. What I noticed tonight after pulling the fuel pump relay is with the float level I have full fuel but pushed all the way up it shows empty isn’t this reversed? Are the wires swapped somewhere? Here is a pick with it showing full.
633D80FA-086B-442B-A266-E9ADB0E684E4.jpeg
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
From AllDataDIY, the fuel gauge sender uses pin2 (Fuel level Sensor Signal) and pin4 (Low Reference).
I wonder if your Low Reference is getting high voltage instead of low.
Also I see a blue electrical connector at the top of your picture, that doesn't look stock. Do you have a full picture showing where that wire goes?
11304
11305
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
For about 5 months I had it soldered with heat shrink but the gauge stopped working a week ago so tonight i replaced with a butt connector the heat shrink was almost corroded not fuel rated. I accidentally cut the wire during the initial install about a year ago. Attached are closer up photos. Yellow to yellow green to pink/orange
7E64019D-2D9B-4492-9237-D7DB191DB355.jpeg
F2899C91-8443-42AE-B8DB-4EC4DB61099E.jpeg
 
Last edited:

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
From AllDataDIY, the fuel gauge sender uses pin2 (Fuel level Sensor Signal) and pin4 (Low Reference).
I wonder if your Low Reference is getting high voltage instead of low.
Also I see a blue electrical connector at the top of your picture, that doesn't look stock. Do you have a full picture showing where that wire goes?
View attachment 11304View attachment 11305
If I am reading this correct the Low Reference 1798 circuit would tie into Circuit 510 (Pk/Og) for low reference? Could I bypass and run a temporary wire to test this? I do not pretend to understand wiring schematics so please correct me if I am wrong.
low_reference.gif
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Your wires are not lining up with the diagram I provided... from my 2006 Cobalt SS and maybe your 2005 has a different fuel pump. I think my diagram is wrong for your car.

11309


Corrected AllData wire colors:
45138
 
Last edited:
Top