ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Ok so I’m this case I can bypass the overflow filler neck? How do you fill the heat exchanger system is there a total amount of radiator fluid?
ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC North Carolina
- Thread starter ncgoblin
- Start date
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Perfect I appreciate everyone’s help I’ll post pictures when complete.
redline
Well-Known Member
what temperature difference do you get with the duct vs the fan? I am fighting high temperature baddly.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Its been busy around the house since the storm and managing my 2 little ones. What I have come with correct me if I am wrong for Stock manifold and goblin heat exchanger.
Heat Exchanger to right side of pump (inlet) -> Pump upper (outlet) to bottom inlet laminova on the manifold plate -> Upper laminova out to the filler neck -> filler neck outlet to the hot side of the heat exchanger.
I should not need any fittings with this route.
Heat Exchanger to right side of pump (inlet) -> Pump upper (outlet) to bottom inlet laminova on the manifold plate -> Upper laminova out to the filler neck -> filler neck outlet to the hot side of the heat exchanger.
I should not need any fittings with this route.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
So tonight I tracked down my (2) cut wires for the clutch sensor. Using alldatadiy schematics I found circuit 379 BN/WH wire and soldered it in. I am editing this post because initially I was tracking circuit 5279 but that was not for the MU3 transmission. There are (2) plugs for a 2005 Cobalt SS very identical but different circuits. Circuit 339 show below goes to BCM C3 plug. I am good now.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
The second photo looks like the oil pressure sensor.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
So when I google knock sensor for cobalt ss the picture blue shows up which is already connected to the block. When I look up the diagram a connector similar to the one in picture #1 above shows up but I cannot find it in the engine harness! Which is crazy because I have not even touched the harness.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Well I am almost ready to go for the first start but when I turn the key I just hear a click. I believe my starter is wired incorrectly. I have to negative cable attached to the stranded flat cable in the pic below. Where does the starter ground attach? thank you in advance.
PICTURE IS FROM STAGE 1 BUILD, not mine.
PICTURE IS FROM STAGE 1 BUILD, not mine.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
You shouldn't need to run any negative wires to the starter. There should be an existing braided negative wire. You can kind of see it in the picture. The positive battery cable connects to the starter post, and another positive cable runs down from the fuse box post and also down to where your battery cable connects. You should only have two connections to your starter.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Ok that is fixed it was the ground from engine I moved it to one of the empty motor mount holes and it has continuity from the other grounds. It did not resolve the issue but I did find a few problems. First the red/black stripe wire needed to be soldered I’m almost certain this is for the ignition plug in picture. The black I moved to the battery ground for testing. I also am not sure what this plug near the engine is for I am getting a red lock on the dash when I power the car. The clutch I believe only has one sensor even though there is a bracket for another. I cannot seem to find a connector that would fit I kept all connectors.
I appreciate everyone’s assistance. The Neighbor came down tonight and was like this thing looks insane!
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I was wrong on this. The knock sensor is close but the one in the top photo is the crank position sensor. But you probably already figured that out.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I was wrong on that one. I got it mixed up. I believe it's the crank position sensor. That's why it's so close to the internal part of the engine and at the end of the crankshaft.So when I google knock sensor for cobalt ss the picture blue shows up which is already connected to the block. When I look up the diagram a connector similar to the one in picture #1 above shows up but I cannot find it in the engine harness! Which is crazy because I have not even touched the harness.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Is the red/black wire your fused BCM power wire? If you don't have that connected, your security light will come on. It's easy to forget.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Yes the red/black fused goes to the BCM I just checked that. There is another red/black wire that I just wired tonight and I tested the continuity all the way back to the ECM, see photos. I do not think I need this second ignition wire and this is why I cut it out. I am looking at the stage 1 photo and its not included this may be causing me issues. Where should I solder the ECM wire into?
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Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Power steering maybe?
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
So I checked continuity from the battery ground to the pedal box that rings out. I checked from the engine ground to the frame, and from the wire center column to the battery all ring out fine. I check the voltage at the starter its 12.4, and at the positive post on the fuse box its 12.4. I do not get any light from my OBD plug and the lock key on the gauges.