ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC North Carolina

[Lonny]

This is power from the fuse box for your power steering.

 

[ncgoblin]

View attachment 5365
This is power from the fuse box for your power steering.

Perfect thanks

 

[ncgoblin]

Well I fixed the crank position sensor I didn’t install the dongle. I fixed a few grounds I am seeing readings of 12.4 at the starter, BCM, and ECM. I am only getting a few codes at the OBD2. One concern I have is when I removed the starter I broke one of the small screw mounts. I still have the 2 large ones for the stranded body wire and the alternator/ECM power. What tells the starter to turn over? Am I missing something like a com wire?

Also the clutch only has one sensor any concerns here?

I am also still getting the car lock icon on th dash.

 

[ncgoblin]

View attachment 5351
The lower braided wire is the positive that goes to the starter motor when you turn the key to the start position. The starter gets it's ground through the engine block.

I do not have a connector but I do have a terminal connector on the 2005 Cobalt SS this may be causing my starting issue.

Thanks

 

[Waterdriver]

It looks like one of the clutch switches is missing. My 05 ss is using both the upper and lower switches. Upper I believe is for cruise control disengage. Lower is for detecting clutch depressed for starting.

 

[ncgoblin]

It looks like one of the clutch switches is missing. My 05 ss is using both the upper and lower switches. Upper I believe is for cruise control disengage. Lower is for detecting clutch depressed for starting.
View attachment 5387

Do you happen to have a photo of the lower sensor. Also since you have the same year do you happen to have a photo of the starter smaller wire?

Thanks!

 

[Waterdriver]

This is from my build post for the clutch switches. You'll have to zoom in to see. Maybe down pic then zoom to get in closer.

I dont have a pic readily available for the starter. (At work) Unless someone else posts a photo first, I'll take some photos when I get home from work.

 

[ncgoblin]

This is from my build post for the clutch switches. You'll have to zoom in to see. Maybe down pic then zoom to get in closer.
View attachment 5388

I dont have a pic readily available for the starter. (At work) Unless someone else posts a photo first, I'll take some photos when I get home from work.

Great this helps thanks. If you get an opportunity the starter will help because I plan to track down the cable tonight.

 

[ctuinstra]

There is a purple wire that goes to the starter to engage it. It bolts to one of the small nuts. If the case broke, which many of the do, you might want to consider replacing the starter so it doesn't leave you stranded one day.

 

[ncgoblin]

There is a purple wire that goes to the starter to engage it. It bolts to one of the small nuts. If the case broke, which many of the do, you might want to consider replacing the starter so it doesn't leave you stranded one day.

Thanks Chad when I got home tonight I looked through all my connectors and noticed a GPS connector a cut out with a relay. So apparently this cobalt had a security system. Luckily the purple cable was easy to identify because I labeled after cutting GPS and come to find out purple is pretty standard for a starter. I tried getting my starter to work but gave up I think its toast. I went ahead and purchased one on rock auto and also purchased a clutch position switch.

The good news is I am getting 12v when I turn the key for ignition on the purple now I just have to wait. Rock auto was like $75 for a starter AC-Delco at advance was like $180. Not sure if there is a huge difference in quality.

 

[ctuinstra]

Rockauto is the way to go. Just keep an eye on the locations the parts ship from. If they ship from two different warehouses, they charge shipping from both.

He is a 5% discount I have that's good until the end of October.

 

[ncgoblin]

Rockauto is the way to go. Just keep an eye on the locations the parts ship from. If they ship from two different warehouses, they charge shipping from both.

He is a 5% discount I have that's good until the end of October.


View attachment 5392

Thanks Chad I appreciate it. I actually had a 5% discount totally forgot to plug it in on my order lol. I guarantee it wont be the last part I purchase. I am so close to starting this bad boy! The next few days will be cleanup/organize which is much needed.

 

[ncgoblin]

The new starter turns over which is great news. I am now running into issues with the fuel pump. When I turn the ignition I pop the 15amp fuse every time. I checked continuity on the grounds and they look good. Anyone have advice where I should start?

Thanks

 

[Briann1177]

Sounds like a short somewhere. Measure the resistance between the gray fuel pump wire on the harness and ground. You should have an open circuit or high resistance.

 

[ncgoblin]

Sounds like a short somewhere. Measure the resistance between the gray fuel pump wire on the harness and ground. You should have an open circuit or high resistance.

I get 0 on resistance when I test between gray and black

 

[ncgoblin]

I get 0 on resistance when I test between gray and black

I unplugged the plug and no fuse popped.

 

[Briann1177]

The gray wire is the fuel pump power wire from your fuse box. If you get 0 ohms between that wire and ground, thats why your fuse is popping. You're shorting battery voltage directly to ground when you turn the key on.

 

[ncgoblin]

The gray wire is the fuel pump power wire from your fuse box. If you get 0 ohms between that wire and ground, thats why your fuse is popping. You're shorting battery voltage directly to ground when you turn the key on.

If this is only happening when the fuel pump is plugged in would it be caused by the pump ground? I have brought this all the way back to the pedal box which I ground off the powder coat well there.

What should my reading be when I’m checking between the 2 wires resistance?

 

[ctuinstra]

If this is only happening when the fuel pump is plugged in would it be caused by the pump ground? I have brought this all the way back to the pedal box which I ground off the powder coat well there.

What should my reading be when I’m checking between the 2 wires resistance?

If it is only happening with the fuel pump plugged in, then is almost has to be the pump itself. Unplug the plug from the pump and measure the resistance on the same two pins of just the pump. This will help to verify it's just the pump.

 

[Briann1177]

What resistance do you get when you unplug the connector?