ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC LSD North Carolina

ncgoblin

Well-Known Member
#82
If it is only happening with the fuel pump plugged in, then is almost has to be the pump itself. Unplug the plug from the pump and measure the resistance on the same two pins of just the pump. This will help to verify it's just the pump.
Well boys it sounds like I may have a faulty pump. I pulled the pump and disconnected the internal positive/negative connector while disconnected I get nothing but plugged up to I believe the small black internal pump I get 0s and a beep. Do you think it’s fixable? I cannot even pull it all the way out due to the hose inside. If I need a new one what version should I get?

Thanks
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
#83
Just to be clear, the total resistance is zero? Because if it's just low, say 35 ohms or something, they pump motor may be good. I don't know what the actual resistance of the motor should be at this point, but the point is, there is a difference between zero and low. I'm just covering all the bases, not trying to confuse you or anything.

Most likely the windings are shorted inside. And to be on the safe side, replace the pump.
 

ncgoblin

Well-Known Member
#84
Just to be clear, the total resistance is zero? Because if it's just low, say 35 ohms or something, they pump motor may be good. I don't know what the actual resistance of the motor should be at this point, but the point is, there is a difference between zero and low. I'm just covering all the bases, not trying to confuse you or anything.

Most likely the windings are shorted inside. And to be on the safe side, replace the pump.
Yes between the 2 wires total resistance is 0. What pump do you recommend for my 05 supercharged?
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
#85
I don't really have a recommendation other than the GM OEM pump for ease of installation and wiring. The factory pump should normally last the life of the vehicle if not run too hot to often (running low on fuel, the fuel helps to cool the pump).
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
#86
Keep in mind I have a TC fuel pump, but I get 0.4 Ohms resistance when I measure between they gray and black wires. Also make sure when you measure resistances, you're on Ohms and not the diode checker.

The thought that the fuse only blows when you have the pump plugged in tells me there is something going on with the pump itself.
 

ncgoblin

Well-Known Member
#87
Keep in mind I have a TC fuel pump, but I get 0.4 Ohms resistance when I measure between they gray and black wires. Also make sure when you measure resistances, you're on Ohms and not the diode checker.

The thought that the fuse only blows when you have the pump plugged in tells me there is something going on with the pump itself.
So the Ohms was about .7 on the pump. I went ahead and installed a new fuse and tested the voltage at the connector right before the pump 10.4 at startup and when let off the key 12.4v, no fuse pop. I then plugged into pump and pop! I am fairly confident its the pump and I can replace the pump alone without the entire housing for $40. We will see if this solves it.
 
#88
Goblin is alive! It did not end up being a faulty fuel pump but a faulty ground. One of my coworkers mentioned to test right to the battery im like doh! Worked perfect. I am about to tape up the last few wires but I am not sure what this plug is for.
 

Attachments

#90
I have some photos and videos to upload but it’s been very busy. I finished wiring up the headlights/taillights/turn signals and rear suspension. Two problems I am running into now. The heat exchanger fan for the supercharger runs all the time when the ignition is turned on and is causing the engine to delay on power off causing it to sputter. I tested by unplugging the fan and engine powers off perfect. I wired in the blue wire based on the guide to the PCM plug. Second how did you all determine the backup signal without the shifter installed how does the vehicle send that signal? I am not sure if this is required in NC registration.

Thanks