Well boys it sounds like I may have a faulty pump. I pulled the pump and disconnected the internal positive/negative connector while disconnected I get nothing but plugged up to I believe the small black internal pump I get 0s and a beep. Do you think it’s fixable? I cannot even pull it all the way out due to the hose inside. If I need a new one what version should I get?If it is only happening with the fuel pump plugged in, then is almost has to be the pump itself. Unplug the plug from the pump and measure the resistance on the same two pins of just the pump. This will help to verify it's just the pump.
Yes between the 2 wires total resistance is 0. What pump do you recommend for my 05 supercharged?Just to be clear, the total resistance is zero? Because if it's just low, say 35 ohms or something, they pump motor may be good. I don't know what the actual resistance of the motor should be at this point, but the point is, there is a difference between zero and low. I'm just covering all the bases, not trying to confuse you or anything.
Most likely the windings are shorted inside. And to be on the safe side, replace the pump.
So the Ohms was about .7 on the pump. I went ahead and installed a new fuse and tested the voltage at the connector right before the pump 10.4 at startup and when let off the key 12.4v, no fuse pop. I then plugged into pump and pop! I am fairly confident its the pump and I can replace the pump alone without the entire housing for $40. We will see if this solves it.Keep in mind I have a TC fuel pump, but I get 0.4 Ohms resistance when I measure between they gray and black wires. Also make sure when you measure resistances, you're on Ohms and not the diode checker.
The thought that the fuse only blows when you have the pump plugged in tells me there is something going on with the pump itself.
Thanks for the update Briann I will test this tonight. I believe the fan may still be providing a small amount of power when the ignition turns off causing the vehicle to sputter but I may be wrong. I am going to try to diode method that Lonny provided and report back.Interesting about the fan power wire. I noticed that mine also runs for about a second or two after I turn off the key, but I never thought too much about it because the engine eventually dies without any issues. I don't understand why the fan would even cause an issue.
As far as your reverse lights, you should have a backup lamp switch on your transmission. There should be a light green wire that runs from your switch, through your engine-to-body harness connector, and out to your lamps. You can shift it into reverse manually at the transmission side if you want to test your lights that way.
Is this what you are talking about Lonny? 15Amp?