ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC North Carolina

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Hey guys I had to rebuild my uprights because they were flipped but noticed a few other issues. Now that it’s assembled can you tell me if I got this driver side correct? Notice the arm that holds the tie rod has 4 holes as options I set it horizontal it seems everyone else has either 2 holes or 3 and it’s able to go diagonal.
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Thanks
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Hey guys I had to rebuild my uprights because they were flipped but noticed a few other issues. Now that it’s assembled can you tell me if I got this driver side correct? Notice the arm that holds the tie rod has 4 holes as options I set it horizontal it seems everyone else has either 2 holes or 3 and it’s able to go diagonal.

Thanks
Mine had 3 holes Here is the ones I used. The 4 hole one must be new I have only ever seen the 2 or 3 hole ones
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ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Got the car moving today was very nice I have a few problems but the big one is the anti theft symbol always stays on never affected starting and running but when I put the throttle half way on acceleration the car stutters harsh almost like a plug issue or fuel issue definitely seems like anti theft kicks in. Is the dealer going to have to resolve this?
 

Nilbog

Well-Known Member
Grounding.... sounds weird and im sure theres no basis to my reasoning but try grounding the back of the BCM module using the mount screw below the rear connector. Was my security light issue..
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
So this problem may not be related to the security light but I received a MAF sensor error unfortuntly it is not available now that I shut the car off but it came up when I had the issue. Is it plugged in right? Is my tubing/caps correct?

Thanks!
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I'm not sure about the SCs but I had MAF issues when I crammed the filter too far down the tube. You don't want any part of the tube going past the neck and into the filter area.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
My MAF uses different color wires than that.

The EVAP error is not out of the ordinary since you probably don't have an EVAP system anymore. I don't.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
It sounds like **** in the video. Sorry for the blunt honesty. Something is very wrong. Sounds like it not even running on some of the cylinders.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
When the goblin idles it sounds normal I can tap the throttle and response is typical. If I unplug the MAF the goblin RPMs go up and down rough. The car sounds terrible when I drive up the road and push half throttle it almost stalls and if I press the throttle any harder it studders. I can check to see if the intake is pushed in to far there is a pic above.

It does sound like a problem with the cylinders but its odd its fine on idle. Possibly a vacuum problem? Please check my tubing and see I capped off the intake too.

Thanks
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Can you take a video of it at "normal" idle? Do you have hptuners to log?
I do not have hptuners unfortuntetly. I will take a video tomorrow. There are (2) concerns I have that may be related to this problem. First the air box was crushed during donor impact the MAF may have been damaged but its fine at idle. the MAP sensor on the supercharger had a crack in the connector but still connects fine the contacts may have got damaged. If I unplug the MAP sensor off the charger is there a way to tell if this is the cause or could this harm the charger?

Before I replace parts even though they are low cost I just want to make sure I replace the correct ones.

Thanks
 

Nilbog

Well-Known Member
Yeah, theres a lot going on there. I know when i first got my donor it drove home 90 minutes just fine, smooth as silk. After it was home i was troubleshooting some other issue and if i messed with the MAF sensor by disconnecting it or disconnected the intake it would not start. I know the MAF does a lot with how vehicles run, without it you are essentially in speed density which uses can'd VE numbers. I've never messed with MAP removal but most tune inputs use MAP so its important. Personally i would ensure the MAF/MAP were operating appropriately to start.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Yeah, theres a lot going on there. I know when i first got my donor it drove home 90 minutes just fine, smooth as silk. After it was home i was troubleshooting some other issue and if i messed with the MAF sensor by disconnecting it or disconnected the intake it would not start. I know the MAF does a lot with how vehicles run, without it you are essentially in speed density which uses can'd VE numbers. I've never messed with MAP removal but most tune inputs use MAP so its important. Personally i would ensure the MAF/MAP were operating appropriately to start.
At this point I may be smart just to replace both since they were close to the impact of the frontal crash.
 
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