Normal Aspirated Ecotec (TURBOCHARGED build)

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Evening,

A good percentage of the builders have stated that they are going to build their Goblin with the stock N/A or the runout SS/TC engine from their donors. Then build their dream engine to install at a later date. (So I initially did rebuild the 2.2L Ecotec/transmission for “BLUE” but it retained the stock internals - reason that I am only running it up to approx. 230HP more then enough for the Goblin without really stressing the engine either....).

So in comes a deal that I could not refuse... a brand new Ecotec 2.4L VVT (2012) for sale without the rods,pistons and valves. So here I am going to try and do my first Turbocharged Ecotec engine build... (seeing that I’m not going to be the last of us doing this I’ll try to use this post as a DOs and DON’Ts for a N/A engine converted to a turbocharged high HP engine). This is my first attempt so I really could use sound advice and knowledge from other builder with more experience in turbo builds.

So let me begin with what I have and then we can go from there.
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New 2.4L VVT Ecotec....

Parts to replace powdered components or missing components...

1) Forged and coated pistons for LE5 (2.4L / 88mm / 10.4:1 compression)
NOTE: using stock 10.4:1 compression I am planning to run on E85 fuel - if I was running pump gas a lower compression ratio would be preferred.
2) Molnar 2.4L connecting rods ( cheapest of the forged rods but plenty strong enough for what I’m trying to build ).
3) Siemens 80# injectors (EV6) for E85 fuel
4) Ecotec Inconel oversized valves ( exhaust and intake ).
5) Neutral balance shaft delete bushings.
6) LE5 performance cams.
7) 82# Ecotec valve springs and titanium retainer.
8) Cobalt SS intake manifold ( aluminum ) it is the one with the throttle body on the bottom side of the manifold - don’t know if it will work or not???
9) Ecotec LHU/LNF throttle body
10) ARP Ecotec stud kit
11) New BorgWarner / GM turbocharger ( 2.0 Ecotec LNF) new takeoff....

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So that is what I have along... with a lot of additional questions.

So what I would like to do is to try and keep this thread pretty clean ( there is so much good information on the forum but it gets lost ).
I’ll let this sink in to get your thoughts flowing... I’ll start posting some of my questions later... I can also start an open conversation (that anyone can join into) if you like or dislike something without cluttering the thread.

Would be nice to have a one stop thread for N/A to Turbocharged engine build for current and future builders...

THX,
Bruce
 

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BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Morning,

Yes I have read though the Ecotec build guide. ( reading and doing sometimes escapes me thou... ).

The actual engine build internally is pretty straight forward. ( Problem I have run into is availablity of some of the parts ).
I do have questions with regards to the Turbocharger installation the physical bolting it to the turbocharger exhaust manifold is simple. Now comes the plumbing oil and coolant lines.

OIL LINES:
The feed line can be attached by removing one of the engine plugs in the block at the neutral shaft area of the block replace the plug with a AN fitting or a banjo bolt style fitting to connect the oil line to.
- so question here is if the neutral balance shafts are deleted per the delete shaft kit is oil still being pumped through that area???
- I have also read to use a 2mm restrictor of that fitting to cut down on smoke at start up from oil and the turbocharger???
The oil needs to go back into the oil pan... oil return line placement... so do you drill the block similar to the factory turbocharger engine location OR do you drill and add a threaded bung into the oil pan itself. (Better or worse)...
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COOLANT LINES:
A couple of options... the easy end is at the thermostat housing drilling and tapping the housing or just simply replacing with a turbocharged housing with the fitting already there.
The engine end is a different story...
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The photo shows the area that the stock turbocharged engine coolant line bolts up to the engine. First problem is that I don’t think there is enough room to drill and tab that into a 12mm banjo style connector. And also what do you do about the restricted coolant fitting that runs to the coolant pressure tank. ( there are tapped banjo style fittings that the coolant line and the restricted barb can be connected to ) problem is size.

Second option: (don’t know if this is even a viable alternative)
What is the coolant temperature through out an engine system. IE the temperature difference between the two stock mounting locations above...
If the temperature differences is minimum can you use the heater core lines on the the thermostat housing as your feed and return lines. Simply remove hard lines tap the housing (1/2 NPT) add 1/2 NPT with 3/8” barbs and connect them directly to the turbocharger coolant lines...

THX,
Bruce
 

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Tinkles

Active Member
- so question here is if the neutral balance shafts are deleted per the delete shaft kit is oil still being pumped through that area???
Yes. Bushings should be included with the delete kit to go in the bearing journals to maintain oil pressure.


The area I circled is the OEM oil drain location. Pull the pan and drilling it out is the best option.


IIRC you will need to swap to the LNF thremostat housing and coolant crossover for the OEM turbo to fit.

Some notes I have on your parts choices.
1. Good choice on sticking with the OEM compression ratio. Lowering compression makes the engine feel gutless when out of boost.
2. 06-07 LE5s had stronger "forged" rods stock. Granted an aftermarket set will be stronger, but if you don't plan on upgrading from the OEM turbo then they will be plenty strong enough.
3. 80s might be too small for E85.
7. I highly recommend Supertech for the valvesprings. A friend of mine had ZZP's 82lb valvesprings fail and kill his engine.


I remember a Sunfire owner years ago laying out everything to swap the LNF turbo onto a N/A engine, but I am fairly certain that the thread was on a forum that is now dead and gone.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Afternoon,

Just to clarify... I’m planning to upgrade the turbocharger in the future. The LNF turbocharger (OEM takeoffs) are the cheapest way I could find to get the lines and components with a better quality turbocharger. This is just a proof of concept that everything works as it should before spending a lot more money for something that may not work...

The ultimate goal is a +400HP engine with reliability....

So oil lines...
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Remove plug at the blue circle and replace with a barbed or AN fitting for the oil feed line....
Drill and tap at the red circle and add a barbed or AN fitting for the oil return line...

Next are the coolant lines???
NOTE: purchased a turbo coolant pipe for the additional space required for the OEM turbocharger...

THX,
Bruce
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Afternoon,
Still seeking input on the best way to install coolant lines on the stock 2.4L Ecotec to install an LNF turbocharger...
THX,
Bruce
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
Not that I know your parts, but hooking the turbo coolant lines up to the heater lines seems easy.
The heater has large coolant lines, more than enough supply for a turbo.
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
Good Afternoon,
Still seeking input on the best way to install coolant lines on the stock 2.4L Ecotec to install an LNF turbocharger...
THX,
Bruce
ZZP sells the turbo version of the waterpump tube on eBay for cheap. You’ll need this as it has the banjo fitting for the turbo but also because the pipe drops down lower to clear the turbo manifold.

Also consider using the Saab intake instead of the turbo intake. Cleaner and easier to route intake tubes
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
Honestly I put tons of time into this exact project. I have a lot of Documents and parts most things I like to order two of for some unknown reason. It’s quite straight forward once you know what you need, but all the different fittings and threads and what not took time.

For starters search for the ZZP thermostat housing mentioned above and their Ecotec block to 4an oil line adapter.

Then search for the Hahn instructions on turbocharging a sling shot. Super helpful. I’m pretty sure I posted them in my engine build thread.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Evening,
Does anyone have or know what the Tapped Banjo bolt is here. Basically it is the second coolant connection to the LNF Turbocharger - connects the turbocharger coolant line plus has the connection for the surge tank -... if it’s OEM a part number or description (or if you know where I can purchase one).
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THX,
Bruce
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Morning,
Finally received all the back ordered parts for the engine build.
But after seeing Chris Wylie’s build I have been questioning the need for extra venting??? (Reason behind it... running a 2.2L w/ ZZPerformance supercharger and do get a small amount of oil from the rear main seal with normal driving and also get oil from the bottom of the dipstick with hard driving) Very small amount -400 miles on car and have not had to add oil [also new rear main seal and new o-rings on dipstick tube]. Both leads me to believe I’m pressurizing the case.
So with that I had an old Ecotec valve cover and wanted to see the best place to add venting. The intake side has a splash guard (cover plate) riveted into the cover.
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Underside with the cover plate.
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Underside with the cover plate removed. You can now see three separate areas each having a series of plastic wafers.
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The wafers themselves are stacked together.
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So the question becomes if I were to do it like Chris’s I would take 10AN weld in bungs (pictured above) and weld them into the valve cover exhaust or intake side (or both). Seeing the splash guard is permanently attached issue with drilling and welding into that area?

Looking for input....
THX,
Bruce
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Evening,
Yes I’m still here...I’ll get into the engine later in October.

I do want to give a SCAM ALERT !!!!!! to the builders....

I have been flighting with ALPHA FAB INDUSTRIES over the stand alone wiring harness for Nate’s car. (That sucks in itself get one of your kids really excited about a build and then have it sidelined to deal with this). Harness payed for in full over a year and a half ago. So basically they have our money the computers for Nate’s car and won’t even return a phone call, text or email. Much less deliver what was promised. Started looking at the BBB (Better Business Bureau). 5 complaint just this year over the same things (attachments). You can also look them up for additional complaints on the Cobalt SS Forums...

ALPHA FAB INDUSTRIES
Shaun McColley (owner)
Stephen Walton (manager)
1101 SB Chavez Dr.
Flint, Michigan 48503
Racewinningholdings.com
1 (810) 893-6265 or (734) 604-0452
These guys have a great web site and talk a great line (of sh*t) but can’t or won’t back it up.

Take a look at the attachments...
Hopefully nobody else has to get screwed by them...

Bruce
 

Attachments

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Evening,
Quick update...
Made an unscheduled visit to Alpha Fab’s shop on Friday. Miraculously the shop manager (Stephen) found my harness sitting next to his desk and even more incredibly it was still zip tied together (by me from when I took it off the car). He just pleaded ignorants in the whole matter. The owner (Shaun) came in an hour or so later and swears that the harness was reworked and that there was no reason to undo the zip ties to put it on their test stand. My BS meter is already pegged in my mind. But I’ll play along so to cut this short. I bring the harness and the first reflashed ECU -the second one is nowhere to be found- (I had two ECU’s the first would turn the engine over but would not start the second would start but shut down after 1-2 seconds) and TCM home install on Nate’s Goblin and just as before turn over with no indication of trying to start. So pretty much back to the starting point.
Bruce
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
Ouch. Thanks for the warning. I assumed they were a pretty reputable company. They seem to do a lot of builds.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Well I guess there is a Santa Claus...
I received a check today from Alpha Fab refunding the full payment for Nate’s wiring harness. (Hopefully it will clear without an issue). It has be a very frustrating year and a half but hopefully Nate and I can start to pursue a stand alone harness elsewhere.
 

ccannx

Well-Known Member
I had an issue with the car not running after start, kept trying about 6-8 starts and realized if I sat in the car and gave it partial throttle it would stay running. Then I unhooked the battery did some more work and had troubles getting it to run more than a few seconds again. Left the battery hooked up and the next day car started right up.
 
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