Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

[TheNuker]

Are the 15x7 the 24mm spec Miata offset? What color are these wheels? It looks really really good... so much so that I may be changing my plans because of it...

John

Yep, the Miata spec, Remember you need to have the 15" version center hubs bored out on a lathe from 54.1mm to 57.1mm it only cost me 40$ for both.

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1843.html

They are the tungsten color, I'm really loving how they look!

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Reverse gear is still illusive to me. Forward 5 are no problem. Reverse just does not seem to want to go into, Can someone with an SS/SC give me any ideas. I have a new short shifter with reverse lockout, But TBH I don't even see how the reverse lockout does anything. it slides up and down with a spring tension but what does that action actually do?

Nuker-

 

[PHerder]

Reverse gear is still illusive to me. Forward 5 are no problem. Reverse just does not seem to want to go into, Can someone with an SS/SC give me any ideas. I have a new short shifter with reverse lockout, But TBH I don't even see how the reverse lockout does anything. it slides up and down with a spring tension but what does that action actually do?

Nuker-

On the shifter assembly (i.e. where the shift column is located) there is a projecting piece of plastic that keeps the shifter from going over to the right and down where reverse is located. You have to pull up on the center spring loaded surround (reverse lockout) to allow the shifter column to move down to the reverse gear. Pulling up on the reverse lockout lets the shifter column go over that projecting piece of plastic and into reverse.

Clean as mud? When I first was trying the gears in my 2007 SS/SC, I didn't figure out how to get into reverse until I was trying to remove the shifter knob and then the light bulb came on and I found reverse!

 

[TheNuker]

Okay, I see how the piece hits the plastic now, I made sure to raise it up, But the sucker just does not want to go into reverse. I guess I'm going to go back and make sure the shifter is all adjusted right. Which arm and direction does the reverse move on the transmission?

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Horn and hazard light switches hooked up last night. That was trial by error, Ended up shorting 2 dash button wires trying to find the horn and popped a fuse! But all good now.

I'm starting to think that one of my shifter cables is not adjusted right and that is why I have trouble going into anything but first and second (About all I use around the neighborhood) I'm going to look at that left cable and see if I can adjust it further and hopefully that will fix my reverse problem.

But in the meantime I'm really good at fred flinstoning out of the garage lol.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Reverse is still a nightmare. The shifter lockout goes up over the plastic but it just feels like nothing on the transmission side will move back further. I physically put it into reverse to make sure it works without cables attached without any issues.

On the threaded rods, what position are they screwed in? I feel like there is 9 million adjustment points and nothing is working. I can get 1 through 5 okay but reverse is a no go.

I tried as suggested to put the shifter straight up, Then adjust the cables to match the arms on the transmission. But reverse still won't shift into it at all.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Oh man. Apparently the threads on one of the ball end cap was screwed up about 4 threads down so we could not screw it further. Replacing this ball cap on the shifter linkage allowed it to screw down about 15 more turns and attached well.

Reverse tested and working.

Sigh. That was a PITA.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Well Inspection has been passed.

Piece of cake. They literally only checked brake lights turn signals and the vin on the engine to match the salvage title.

Now I gotta process the vin paperwork and title so 4 more weeks of waiting...


Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

What have you guys found to be the best way to get the intercooler lines filled? That tiny little T neck needs to be filled and driven and filled and driven 20 times before the system seems to be full. Is there a bigger reservoir I should add on?

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Started having a weird problem today, Started the car normally as I was backing up I noticed none of the instrument needles were moving. The mileage box just shows -------------------------------- I pulled back in engine running. Turned the car off, Tried to start again fuel pump kicks on but it won't even try to crank. I also have no headlights/blinkers. I pulled the battery cables let it sit and it worked fine once again but 1/2 way down the road cluster went off again. When I cycle the key the idiot lights come on on the cluster as you would expect then go off like normal, But mileage just has the bars.

Any ideas on this one?
Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Also 2 times tonight while testing, The Run/Crnk relay in the rear box will click fast and all of the lights will flash fast too on the car. To get it to stop I have to pull the ground cable from battery.

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Started having a weird problem today, Started the car normally as I was backing up I noticed none of the instrument needles were moving. The mileage box just shows -------------------------------- I pulled back in engine running. Turned the car off, Tried to start again fuel pump kicks on but it won't even try to crank. I also have no headlights/blinkers. I pulled the battery cables let it sit and it worked fine once again but 1/2 way down the road cluster went off again. When I cycle the key the idiot lights come on on the cluster as you would expect then go off like normal, But mileage just has the bars.

Any ideas on this one?
Nuker-

Every time my dash displayed "-------------" it was a ground bolt that had come untightned.

 

[PG5]

I'd start by checking all your grounds.

Edit: I see JSATX beat me to it. But, +1 on checking grounds.

 

[TheNuker]

You know, I did not open the tunnel to check that bunch of grounds. I bet you guys are right.

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

**** bolt holding the ground in the tunnel head was broken off. I went and bought a new button head SS bolt to hold it down not sure how it snapped a donor bolt head off.

Nuker-

 

[BAR-AIR]

Save yourself some headaches interconnect a common ground wire throughout the car. It's worth the time. Some of the British cars are known for grounding issues through their frames (Lucas). That common ground gets rid of reliance on the frame (rust,paint,a loose connection) from being the sole ground to that particular connection.

 

[Johvans]

Any more updates?

 

[TheNuker]

Car is running great, The ZZP stage 2 kit will be here next week. I'll plan to install then bring to the Dyno tuning shop.

Missouri DMV is slow as hell, Highway Patrol attached my VIN 3 weeks ago. Still no title in the mail. So I can't drive on the streets.

I'm also working on a kick plate for the passenger side hopefully have that done this weekend. I'm also going to work on projector/LED headlights using the same cans that the kit headlights use because I want more light at night. Almost hit a deer a few nights ago while ummm ( driving around my driveway, Yeah that is where I almost hit the deer!)

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Well.... This weekend just got a lot better!

Nuker-

 

[Briann1177]

Congrats. I wonder if a HID kit would be possible and/or a good idea. They are rather pricey though not to mention probably illegal in some states.