Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

KJP

Well-Known Member
I never drove with the stock one, But this one is having zero issues. I think I have almost 6k miles now. I have done several 4-5k launches with no slippage.


I've recently made some bad financial choices, and the stock supercharger will be coming off soon :p So we shall see after that.

Nuker-

You mean good fun-ancial choices
 

TheNuker

Well-Known Member
So replaced the timing chain last night...

Before I put it back together, does the cam posisition look right? I can’t tell if it moved a bit when breaking bolts in cam gears loose. All 3 of the colorized links are in the right spots on the gears but I’m still uncertain if I fucked it up....


Thanks,
Nuker
 

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Karter2026

Well-Known Member
That looks like where the cam gears should be. There are pins on the shafts so the gears can only go on one way. Do you have a pic of the front of the cam gears?
 

BaltimoreHokie

Well-Known Member
If the colored links are in the right places. There really isnt much room for them to be messed up. The one at the bottom is for sure right spot. Are there two on the cams?
Which kit did you end up buying.
 

BaltimoreHokie

Well-Known Member
Man, sorry to hear that. From the pictures. It looks like it was right. I think I also saw some you posted online in the cobalt SS group.

There should be two colored links for the top to cam gears. As long as it all matches up it should be good.
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
Did you pull out the cam tensioner, lock it, and then reset it after install? Just trying to think of what might have caused and issue.
 

TheNuker

Well-Known Member
Okay tomorrow I'm going to take it back apart.

My plan is to start with confirm TDC on cylinder 1 and verify the key on the crank matches. Move that to 12 oc.

Next set the exh and int cams manually to the correct 10 and 2 oc and then install chain confirming that all 3 marks line up with colored links.

Sound good?

Nuker-
 

BaltimoreHokie

Well-Known Member
Okay tomorrow I'm going to take it back apart.

My plan is to start with confirm TDC on cylinder 1 and verify the key on the crank matches. Move that to 12 oc.

Next set the exh and int cams manually to the correct 10 and 2 oc and then install chain confirming that all 3 marks line up with colored links.

Sound good?

Nuker-
I remember when I was performing this process I had the cam gear for the intake and the crankshaft lined up perfectly. Then it was a struggle to get the exhaust gear in the perfect position so that it lined up with the link. I had to use a wrench on the camshaft to move the gear to the correct angle. That was on the turbo version which I'm sure is pretty much the same.
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
Search YouTube for the Cloyes video on how to do it on this engine. I tried to post it but I guess they don't allow sharing. It's very professional video and he mentions what BalitimoreHokie is talking about. I was nervous as heck that I would make a small rookie mistake and then would have tear it all back out and wanted to make sure I did it correctly the first time.

Good luck.
 

Karter2026

Well-Known Member
I remember when I was performing this process I had the cam gear for the intake and the crankshaft lined up perfectly. Then it was a struggle to get the exhaust gear in the perfect position so that it lined up with the link. I had to use a wrench on the camshaft to move the gear to the correct angle. That was on the turbo version which I'm sure is pretty much the same.
That is correct. You have to rotate the exhaust cam a little to get the cam gear lined up.

You will have to start over if you take it apart. Those marks on the chain will not line up even after one rotation. I found out by doing the same thing ( you know when you start questioning your work ). On the bright side I can beat the flat rate time for a timing chain in a 2.2 now:mad:
 

TheNuker

Well-Known Member
Okay, all good now.

I think we literally had it 180deg on the cams out. Idled to temp and drove around the block no problems at all. And best of all the chain rattle is gone that I was hearing at idle.

Now that that is done, I can get on to the fun mods like more HP :D

Thanks for your support gents,
Nuker-
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
Got the heat exchanger bleed. I ended up taking the hose off the cold side, and put it in a big bucket. Then added a large reservoir to the top of the coolant add port. Put about 1/2 gallon in the reservoir, Manually powered the pump until it was shooting out coolant into the bucket and turned it off. Re-attached the cold side hose. Opened the air port on the coolant add fluid port and continued pumping until coolant also blew out of the air port right next to the fill port.

I have not drove it yet as it has been in the low 50s in the AM and screw that noise! But I'm thinking that it is pretty solid now.

I also got tired of the headlights even with LED lamps they were just throwing light everwhere blinding people, while not putting a lot of light where I needed it.

So what do you do? Make your own!

I got these guys yesterday along with some CREE led chips and boost converter LED drivers. I'm going to work on building some custom LED headlights with projector lens over the next week.

Parts so far
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/cxa3070-0000-000n0hab50f/cree
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lmh020-hs00-0000-0000002/cree
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B9VHZNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Yeeco-Regula...6607686&sr=8-14&keywords=boost+buck+converter

I'm going to modify the projectors to mount the LED chips and design/3d print a case to hold the back side, But I'm going to use the stock lights you can buy with the goblin and just cut the back off to house the LED heatsink.
The LEDs will be slightly under driven at 37volts and should produce around 8k lumens each. Your typical headlights in say a BMW produce around 2700lm on high beam :D

Nuker-

View attachment 1912
Any update on this? I had to drive mine at night and it was not fun at all. The lights I want are the Rigid hi/lo driving lights but it’s $440 for the pair!!
 

TheNuker

Well-Known Member
I'm almost done building the prototypes, I had to lower the amperage a little bit on the LEDs, as they were just too bright. Even on low beams you could see out like 300 yards! Maybe 7k lumens on each light is a bit too much.

I'll post some pics after I get the new LED holders machined up.

Nuker-
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
Any update on this? I had to drive mine at night and it was not fun at all. The lights I want are the Rigid hi/lo driving lights but it’s $440 for the pair!!
I'm thinking about using the Rigid Ind Dually. I already have one pair and they are many times brighter than the supplied lights. I'm going to get two pair and use one for low beam and the other set for high beam and just adjust the angles accordingly.
 
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I'll take mine well done please. :D

Actually, will powdercoating hold up to the exhaust temps.

Always used VHT's FlameProof exhaust paint in the past and holds up really well. Good up to 1300 degrees.
 

TheNuker

Well-Known Member
E3EA99D4-2AD5-4953-96C9-3CAD10D9EF8D.jpeg
Guess I’ll find out. Lol

Here is a first mock up of the headlights, I have a couple more pieces to machine to hold the heatsink to the reflector. Then I have to build a small box to hold the power supply from 12 to the 36v the LEDs use.

Nuker