JSATX
Goblin Guru
Nope. Unless the SS is backwards from the base.
The counterweighted lever is tied to the front-to-rear movement of the shifter.
Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed
- Thread starter TheNuker
- Start date
The counterweighted lever is tied to the front-to-rear movement of the shifter.
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
Okay re bled the clutch. For anyone that is going to use a power bleeder like the Motive where you pump the tank up and apply pressure to the reservoir keep in mind that if you just bleed the clutch via the bleed valve on the hydraulic clutch elbow you will also have to pump the clutch petal 10-15 times before the system is actually bleed unlike the brakes.
Nuker-
Going to start adjusting the shifter linkages next rear wheels and tires should be here today so hoping for a Saturday first drive!
Nuker-
Going to start adjusting the shifter linkages next rear wheels and tires should be here today so hoping for a Saturday first drive!
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
Well I seen some sick slammed 95 civic, and figured they would know best on how to stance tires.
JKJK
It is all fixed now. I just had to readjust the joints and screw them out a few turns to get the tires flat.
Nuker-
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I highly recommend having it done professionally...
Top is all the way in. Bottom is showing 2.5 threads ish.
Attachments
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Would you please specify exactly what brake line ends you ordered? Or send any info on the shop that made them so I can have them duplicate a set?Got the brake lines all setup and installed. I'll get them bled tomorrow.
Nuker-
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
http://www.tompkinsind.com/locations/kansas-city-mo
This is where I had the fronts made, I'll see if I can find the invoice to see exactly what ends they put on them. I took in a rear brake line from the stock car and they just duplicated those ends.
I think the total for both front lines 28" overall length was 63$
Nuker-
Silverback
Well-Known Member
Nice, Nukker. I had been admiring those, who did you use for the brake line clamps?
Last edited:
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0115SYH0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the clamps, Best price I could find 2 for $22!
Nuker-
Silverback
Well-Known Member
I like, I ordered!
I labeled each item so we could quickly identify each. Below the photo I've gone through the hardware really quickly and described the ones I could think of off the top of my head. I've left the ones I couldn't recognize immediately blank. I'll get back to you on those.
A: 3/8 split washers - Used with B, L and H to hold down the back of the seat.
B: 3/8 flat washers - See above. Also used in many places on the front suspension, rear strut mounts and more.
C: Toe link rack washers - Used with Q to hold the toe link rack at the rear of the subframe. I think using your stock bolts is okay.
D:
E:
F: M8 BHCS - Used to tighten the steering shaft universal joints around the splined shafts top and bottom. I think using your stock bolts is okay.
G:
H: 3/8 carriage bolts - see A and B. Rear seat mounts (your second seat should be arriving this week if Corbeau ships soon)
I:
J: 1/4 flat washer - used all over the place: shifter bellcrank (under the head of the bolt and nut), brake line clamps on front control arms (you used those cool ATV clamps instead), BCM mounts, and a lot more
K:
L: 3/8 nut - See A, B and H.
M: 1/4-20 nylok nut - Would've been used on the brake line clamps on the front control arms
N: 5/8 safety washers - These are very important. They should go above and below all 4 of the big rod ends (2 washers per rod end).
O:
P: 10-32 SHCS - brake res adapter bolt
Q: Toe link rack bolts
R: 1/4-20 nylok jam nut - I think these were for the floor support strap under the pan
S: Rubber isolated radiator studs - these should go between the top of the radiator and frame
T: 10-32 nylok nut - brake res adapter, brake mc adapter hold down and tail light nuts
U: M14 HHCS - These hold the top loop of the stock seat belt. You won't use them since you are running harnesses instead.
A: 3/8 split washers - Used with B, L and H to hold down the back of the seat.
B: 3/8 flat washers - See above. Also used in many places on the front suspension, rear strut mounts and more.
C: Toe link rack washers - Used with Q to hold the toe link rack at the rear of the subframe. I think using your stock bolts is okay.
D:
E:
F: M8 BHCS - Used to tighten the steering shaft universal joints around the splined shafts top and bottom. I think using your stock bolts is okay.
G:
H: 3/8 carriage bolts - see A and B. Rear seat mounts (your second seat should be arriving this week if Corbeau ships soon)
I:
J: 1/4 flat washer - used all over the place: shifter bellcrank (under the head of the bolt and nut), brake line clamps on front control arms (you used those cool ATV clamps instead), BCM mounts, and a lot more
K:
L: 3/8 nut - See A, B and H.
M: 1/4-20 nylok nut - Would've been used on the brake line clamps on the front control arms
N: 5/8 safety washers - These are very important. They should go above and below all 4 of the big rod ends (2 washers per rod end).
O:
P: 10-32 SHCS - brake res adapter bolt
Q: Toe link rack bolts
R: 1/4-20 nylok jam nut - I think these were for the floor support strap under the pan
S: Rubber isolated radiator studs - these should go between the top of the radiator and frame
T: 10-32 nylok nut - brake res adapter, brake mc adapter hold down and tail light nuts
U: M14 HHCS - These hold the top loop of the stock seat belt. You won't use them since you are running harnesses instead.