Push Button Start System

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
That's correct, I just assumed since they get power from the same source that connecting them both to the same switch wouldn't be an issue. What does hooking them together do? I'll remove the ACC wire and see if that issue goes away though.
I went back and looked at the circuit again, and you are correct, they do tie to the same source. So that shouldn't be and issue.

It almost seems like it getting left on and the BCM is finally timing out. I do know that these cars do not see the door open and can keep the RAP (retained accessory power on for a while before it times out. I wonder if it has something to do with that.
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
I went back and looked at the circuit again, and you are correct, they do tie to the same source. So that shouldn't be and issue.

It almost seems like it getting left on and the BCM is finally timing out. I do know that these cars do not see the door open and can keep the RAP (retained accessory power on for a while before it times out. I wonder if it has something to do with that.
I disconnected the brown wire and after waiting an hour the switch was dead again so it's safe to assume that having the wires connected isn't what's causing my issue. It must be something else I wired over the winter. Thanks for the help!
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I disconnected the brown wire and after waiting an hour the switch was dead again so it's safe to assume that having the wires connected isn't what's causing my issue. It must be something else I wired over the winter. Thanks for the help!
I need to look into this again. I have a switched RFID remote that I hooked into the door switch trigger on the BCM. When I press the unlock button, it simulates a door opening, which turns on the courtesy light. I can also program it to simply unlock when in range (which sounds like what yours does). When I shut off the ignition button (key off) it simulates door open signal, which turns on the courtesy light. When I press the lock button in the transmitter, it simulates door closed. My courtesy lights remain on an additional 20 seconds before dimming. I haven’t really checked to see what the RAP is doing. I thought I remember reading that the RAP is sctivated from the driver door switch closing (although I am using the pax door switch).
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
My build thread of the Push-to-start system was basically just that, a build thread. It wasn't very good at detailing how to do it. I've had questions about it over the years and I should have done a better job after it was finished of putting up a better description of how to wire it all. So here is a schematic for the wiring. Much of the details are found earlier in this thread, especially about the anti-theft resistor (which could be very important). Hope this helps future builders.

We have had this system on the car for years now and it's been working fine. The battery in the remotes only last about a year or two at best. Since this system is powered all the time, it does have a bit of parasitic draw, so we keep the car on a battery tender all the time (which is just a good idea anyways). The only thing that has caught me from time to time, is you HAVE to have your foot on the brake to shut off the car. It will not turn off if you just press the button. This is a safety thing. Also, unlike a key, this will cycle through the key positions if you keep pressing the button. That takes bit getting used to and you can get lost on what position it is in (but if your clutch is pushed in and foot on the brake, it will start while cycling through them). Also, it has to be "unlocked" in order for it to start. And it's a good idea to "lock" it if you are at a car show so some loose fingers don't hit the button and turn on the ACC or something.
 

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