Redlines - 2008 SS TC Goblin build in Mississippi

[redline]

Day 4 was Sunday, I worked 10 hours but the first 7 were tracing wires trying to get the thing to crank. NOTE: if your car will not start and you followed the videos, put on the sub frame and the ground strap from the transmission to the Frame. the video will not have told you to do this yet but it will save you a solid days worth of cussing. lol

22.5 total hours spent 15.5 hours spent of actual work minus troubleshooting.

 

[Briann1177]

You don't really need to have your subframe installed for grounding purposes. If you just run a ground wire from the engine to the subframe and there is not a good ground connection between the subframe and the frame itself, chances are you'll still have issues.

I think you just happened to get lucky by having a better ground when you installed the subframe. I wouldn't rely on it unless you actually ground off paint or powder coat at a location where both subframe and frame come together.

 

[redline]

Agreed on the strap. I did not grind off the powder coating between the two, but that big old bolt is making a for sure ground. I will still run a strap like stated previously but those bolts should cover it pretty well. Lonny said he has seen this issue before.

What is weird is that we tested this earlier in the day. I had 80 or so ohms from the engine intake to the tunnel lug so we put a set of jumper cables from the lug to a bolt in the engine head. at this point we read 0 ohms between the tunnel lug and the engine just as you would expect. It just must not have been good enough once some real juice was applied to it??? Note, don't trust temporary jumpers.

I just don't want others to go through the same thing and I told Lonny I would post the experience up here for others to reference.

 

[redline]

Stupid question of the day. i changed out my alternator because it looked like the little 2 prong plug was damaged. now I can't find the plug that goes to it? anyone know where that plug comes from on the harness??

 

[Briann1177]

It comes from the engine harness. Is that what you're asking?

 

[redline]

sort of, I know its from the engine harness but I don't see it by the alternator. I need to know where in the harness to look as I am afraid it was removed during the wreck and I will have to find the wires and extend them, then come up with a connector.

 

[ctuinstra]

If you want to get rid of the idiot lights that are no longer used (seat belt, traction control, etc), see my thread. There are some traces on the back of the dash you can cut to kill the LED for each. I kept the CEL and used HP Tuners to disable those items no longer needed and kept the others.

 

[redline]

Thank you ctuistra,

Well I put in 3 more hours last night and got through as much of the suspension as I could. at the look of the hubs/uprights I will have to make some serious adjustments to get them even close to perpendicular to the ground. I have some small things I can do tonight but I am mostly waiting now for the back order parts to arrive.

total hours are 25.5 total and 18.5 minus trouble shooting.

 

[redline]

can someone please send me a picture of where in the harness the alternator plug comes from? I don't even see a place where it looks like it got ripped out of the harness??

 

[Briann1177]

I can't get a good picture because my intake is in the way, but the alternator wires--orange and gray--branch out in the front center of the intake manifold. Right beside the dipstick to the drivers side. It comes from the same branch as your MAP and evap solenoid wires.

If you can't find where they are, you might have to pull the engine harness off and unwrap it.

 

[redline]

I think I found the issue, the old plug does not match the new alternator. so I had the plug (well the wires anyway) the whole time I had to order a new plug to go with the new alternator.

 

[redline]

day 6 update. Worked 3 more hours, got the brake lines done and the inter-cooler pump mounted, also finished off the clutch line and started playing with the inter-cooler.

 

[Briann1177]

Doh! I thought the whole scenario of them getting ripped out seemed a bit strange.

 

[redline]

yea, but the connector on the old alternator was smashed so I wasn't sure.

Anyone with the aftermarket coil overs have a good starting point for adjustment?

 

[redline]

Day 7- 1 hour worked.
Well I had to be an adult today so I mowed the lawn and cleaned the pool ETC.
I did get about an hour or so in on the car so I put the inter-cooler on and mounted the tail lights and head lights.
29.5 hours total 22.5 hours without trouble shooting.

 

[redline]

Day 8 worked 4 hours - got the brake lines filled ( have small leak at the fill tank will have to address that this weekend), got the IC heat exchanger installed and all the IC plumbing done along with filling the system. Started the turbo piping (some items still on back order).

Items left to do - steering, shifter/linkage, remaining turbo piping, install seats and rear bulkhead, wire lights and IC pump and fan. install body panels (will do after driving and testing for access purposes) and order gasket and install exhaust.
33.5 hours total 26.5 hours without factoring trouble shooting.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Your killing it on this build. I've been on pause since selling my house / starting building the new one. This gives me motivation for the winter once i get moved in.

 

[redline]

Thank you,

It has been a challenge but a pleasant one, couldn't have done it without the people here and Lonny being willing to field all of my calls and text. Building a new house sounds like fun but a lot of work!

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Ha, I would like to take that credit but by "building a house" I mean, I am watching builders build my cookie cutter house in an development. I am just patiently waiting to get all my goodies back out of storage.

 

[redline]

I need some help here, should I keep going with these springs or is something wrong? It does not seem like the axles are straightening out?