Reuse SS knuckles?

Oldchevyguy

Well-Known Member
Hi. Cleaning up doner parts. I'm not sure if I will use the cobalt SS front aluminum knuckles on the rear, or does the kit provide these, like the front?
The videos do not cover this, because the doner is a rear drum brake car.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Moog lower control arm with ball joint driver side part #RK620898
Moog lower control arm with ball joint passenger side part #RK620897

I removed the sway bar from my 07 SS/SC they say it makes the rear end loose. My SS kit also came with 4 new calipers and rotors.

Nuker-
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
It looks like the sway bar comes with the rubber bushings...
You will want to prevent tow in/out issues with:
2 Control Arm Bushings MOOG K20128567.56
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
With my setup (stock struts and springs on the rear) in my testing/ autocrossing, the SS bar is too stiff. (24mm) Unless you like LOTS of rotation.
The base model Cobalt swaybar seems to work well though. (18mm) ($30@pick-n-pull) Keeps the back end of the car much flatter in the corners.
Easy to install and remove from the assembled car. (Muffler removal required)
With the bar installed, for testing you can remove and install one endlink to feel the handling differences.

It'll really come down to what suspension components/spring rates you end using and your personal driving preference.
 

Acewest

Member
Hey I had to buy be lower control arms that goes from front of cobalt and goes for rear Goblin. Can I just save money and go with the metal black ones or do I need to get the silver aluminum for ss model? I could save about $80
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
Hey I had to buy be lower control arms that goes from front of cobalt and goes for rear Goblin. Can I just save money and go with the metal black ones or do I need to get the silver aluminum for ss model? I could save about $80
Where are you getting the control arms from? If you get them from Rockauto it's barely $10 more for the aluminum ones.
 

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
If you have an LNF (tc) you can't use the black metal ones as the ball joint diameter going into the knuckle is smaller than the LNF knuckle by a few millimeters and causes play. You have to get the aluminum FE5 control arms for everything to match.

Don't bother replacing the ball joints on a used FE5 aluminum cab as they are riveted on and a complete pain in the ass. Just buy the full CAB with the ball joint already installed and move on to bigger fish.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
If you have an LNF (tc) you can't use the black metal ones as the ball joint diameter going into the knuckle is smaller than the LNF knuckle by a few millimeters and causes play. You have to get the aluminum FE5 ones for everything to match.
The absolute truth. This drove me crazy for a few thousand miles trying to figure why it would always pull to the side under throttle and and also while letting off the gas.

I don't think you'll be able to find non-OEM FE5 control arms. Even though the seller might say they will fit, they won't work.
 
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