Rich's Track Goblin - 09 SS Turbo **TITLED & REGISTERED***

RichRich

Well-Known Member
Got my 09 turbo SS a month or so ago, it wasn't drivable but I did have it running prior to pulling the motor. Wasn't able to test everything but did what I could. Got it on copart, almost didn't win, 1 more bid and he would of won it. It has right at 100k miles

It looked like it was well taken care of, interior was absolutely immaculate.
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Had a little issue when I first attempted to start it. The motor would start very strong and then immediately die, after a little diagnosing and a phone call or 2 I unplugged the MAF sensor and it fired right up and ran strong. The intercooler and piping had been taken out in the crash and the MAF sensor didn't like it.
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Got everything stripped off the donor and the dash disassembled, and the best thing I got it out of my garage so I have a little room again. Just finished thinning out the dash harness today.

When thinning out the dash harness I ran into a couple other plugs that wasn't in the video, just because of the amplifier for the radio. I did cut those out as well. A sheet of plywood on a couple sawhorses in the living room was perfect haha. Will probably be tackling the body harness tomorrow
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RichRich

Well-Known Member
Wondering is someone knows what these twisted wires are for and if I need to keep them. They were in the fuel pump bundle
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This is where they run to
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I don't recall what those wires are for, but I cut out everything except for the tan and tan/black twisted pair that ran to the red ABS connector. The only wires I had left related to the fuel system were the four (purple, tan, black, gray) on the fuel pump.

I'm at work so I don't have my Service Manual handy--I also have an '09 SS. I'm guessing that those wires are for the fuel tank pressure sensor or EVAP system.
 

SliderR1

Well-Known Member
I'm also at work, but everything that was twisted pairs on my 05 was for airbags, abs, or the data wires...
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
I want to get all parts ordered that I need for assembly. I have 1 bad rear bearing so am just going to order a new hub. I have read many things about different bolt patterns. Should I change from the 5 lug pattern that comes on the SS?

Also, I have 1 broken axle on the drivers side. Anyone have an opinion on which axle I should get or even stay away from? I was thinking with the lower weight of the goblin it could potentially require a slightly cheaper axle with no issue, but at the same time it is the same horsepower being applied to the axle.

My axle choices on rockauto are
SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE for $58.79
A-1 CARDONE for 95.79
ACDELCO (OEM) for $178.79
 
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dperkins

Well-Known Member
I think a few people switch to 4x100. I'm switching to 5x114.3 because I can get enkei rpf1s in that size, and DF said they can redrill hubs.
 

Silverback

Well-Known Member
The SS/tc (2008-10) stock front 5x110 hub (now rear on a Goblin) mates to a much larger diameter axle with a different spline. According to Lonny, there isn't sufficient room to drill 4x100. You can replace the big axles and related parts with the smaller shafts etc and bolt up to a stock 4x100 hub. Plenty of 4x100 options in smaller wheel diameters. I went with 15" 4x100 in front and 17" 5x114.3 (5x4.5") in the rear. I didn't want to decrease rear wheel diameter significantly, to keep 1st gear from being too low to be of much use.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
I switched to 4x100 because you can get the super light spec Miata wheels in that size.

But you can't do that on the ss tc only the sc as the axels are 1mm larger than the SC

Nuker
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Edit. I just realized Silverback said the same thing about not being able to redrill the SS/TC hubs to 4x100.
 
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RichRich

Well-Known Member
Drove 1,100 miles with the fam and picked up stage 1 and 2. Got back about a week ago, was a long drive but glad we did it. Had a great time visiting the shop
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One single strap held in in there securely the entire 1,100 mile trip home, and all of the stage 2 stacked in there great.
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We love the color, I think the pictures make it look a little lighter purple than in person.
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RichRich

Well-Known Member
Thanks ctuinstra, it is good to hear


Lonny even took the time to take the kids out for a little spin. They had a fantastic time and definitely made them more interested in the project.
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I think your little girl covers the feelings of all first time Goblin riders perfectly. The smile of happiness combined with a fearful death grip on the oh crap handles.
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
Just a little update, assembly has been going well so far.

Just from what everyone said they experienced while pulling the coolant hose through the frame, I went into it expecting it to be hard to say the least. It made it in about 3-ish feet and started to get extremely difficult. I stood back a sec and thought about what I could do to give better leverage.

I grabbed my floor jack handle and tied a non locking knot in the rope near the frame, I used a butterfly knot but as long as you use something that wont lock when pulled on you will be able to untie it. After I had the loop, I slid the bar through and it made such an amazing difference on how much harder I could pull. I had the hose completely through in less than a couple minutes because of having to reposition the loop once or twice

Also, if I were to do it all again I would try installing the splice prior to pulling the hose through and pull till the splice made it close to the frame. I wasn't about to hook up the rope again to pull them so I cut off what I needed to and pushed the splice in....which turned out to be a PITA , at least for me
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I HIGHLY recommend running a thread tap through the threads of the control arms before putting in the ball ends. All of the larger ones went in without much issue but when I got to the smaller ones the first few went in easy but then one started to get a little tough, I used a bar through it and made it in about halfway till it got too tough. When I tried to pull it back out it came out a few turns and then got VERY stiff, after multiple attempts I couldn't get it out. I stepped away for a few and when I came back I put my universal jack handle back to work. It was either coming out or I was going to have to order a new control arm because of a snapped off ball end, either way something was going to happen. luckily I persuaded it to come out....then went down to the hardware store for the 1/2" thread tap
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Upper and lower ball end connector looks much different than the video, at first I thought mine were missing but after looking at them closer and ACTUALLY reading the writing on the bags I found them. It looks like the hardware for them are a bit long, as if the bolt is still for the previous design. Might swap them out for shorter ones
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Karter2026

Goblin Guru
I'm guessing there was a production change in the front where the radiator mounts. It doesn't look very strong anymore.
 
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