Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ross

Goblin Guru
The DF seatbelt shoulder strap binds when my Cobalt seats are slid all the way back, resulting in the seat belts not retracting.
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So today I read up on how to remove the head rest (there is a small hole, you push with a paper clip),
then re-drilled the Cobalt strap holder, about an inch over.
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This pic also shows how well the driver's seat now aligns with the DF shoulder strap.
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RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
What do you think about re-using the SS seats. I still have mine and have been conflicted on if I want to use them or order the Corbeau.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Budget and wants/needs. No one will fault you for keeping your SS seats, many builds have them. They are comfortable and the 'stock' mounts bolt right into the Goblin with no modifications needed. Besides, you can always upgrade at some point in the future. A goblin is never really ever finished. :)
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I agree, you can always upgrade later... try the SS seats, and see if you like them. 2 bolts is all it takes to remove them. But you do need to do 3 small modifications to them. 1. remove the plastics on the sides. 2. remove the extra bump on the front sliders where it contacts the 1" square tube. 3. grind off 1/4" width from the rear slider's bolt mounts.

For me, I like the seat comfort, and convenience of easy entry and exit, and you can't beat the price. The stock seat belts are quick, and the seats have a lot of adjustablility (bottom tilt, lumbar, recline & slide). They have a sporty look, but not that full race look.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
I wonder if a ZZP pulley will fit on my OTTP hub?
The bolt circle is about 42mm in diameter, and the 5 bolts are weird - smaller than a M5x0.8 and bigger than a #8/32.
Did OTTP do some proprietary thread? Or is this just low quality metric threads? Guess I could alway enlarge them to M5x0.8 with a tap.
Any advise for getting the 3.35" pulley off my supercharger? I am thinking an angle grinder, as I have no need to save the stock pulley.
I'm surprised there is no keyway in the hub. Am I suppose to heat expand it before putting it on?
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ccannx

Goblin Guru
What size are you going to ? I’ve read the intense pulleys and ZZP are made compatible but don’t know about the OTTP.
 

JERMzSS

Well-Known Member
Ross I wish I could of warned ya about the OTTP hub and pulleys before you ordered. They're quality is horrible compared to zzp.

You will need a hydraulic press to get the factory pulley off. Trust me they are on there good. Use some pb blaster and some heat as well. The supercharger snout is threaded so pressing the new hub on isn't bad as long as you can find a bolt and make a thick washer.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Ross I wish I could of warned ya about the OTTP hub and pulleys before you ordered. They're quality is horrible compared to zzp.

You will need a hydraulic press to get the factory pulley off. Trust me they are on there good. Use some pb blaster and some heat as well. The supercharger snout is threaded so pressing the new hub on isn't bad as long as you can find a bolt and make a thick washer.
Oh. Guess you have been down this road before. Well, thanks for the advise on removal and installation.
I will check the parts before installing them... maybe I got lucky and these pass inspection.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Ross I wish I could of warned ya about the OTTP hub and pulleys before you ordered. They're quality is horrible compared to zzp.

You will need a hydraulic press to get the factory pulley off. Trust me they are on there good. Use some pb blaster and some heat as well. The supercharger snout is threaded so pressing the new hub on isn't bad as long as you can find a bolt and make a thick washer.
Using the tool from ZZP made the job very easy for me. No issues whatsoever. I bought the tool and then sold it here on the forum last year.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I went to use my Dragy tool to measure the Goblin's performance before I start doing engine modifications,
and I discovered it was running too rich during wide open throttle.
Since I had just tuned the engine a few months ago, and it was running great after, I was surprised.
After talking to Kyle, I did some MAF (Mass Air Flow) tuning today, and realized that the colder winter air allowed my engine to get more air than it was able to during the warmer fall weather. So after tuning the engine to a higher air mass, it is back to running great. Hopefully I can get some accurate 0-60 times from Dragy. It is running 4.4 seconds right now with 2 people in the car, 4.17secs with just me. Not sure if I will get any more out of my stock Chevy SC engine, but definately would do better with a prepared road, as wheelspin happened every start.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
I fixed these a while ago, but am adding the $8 intercooler pump fix, and the fix to the radiator fan, to my build log.

I finally figured out how the fans work on my 2006 Cobalt SS. I was able to reduce the temperature that the fan turns on at, which was pretty high (223F on, 217F off) on the factory chevy settings. This is HP Tuners, VCM Editor software:
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Fan 1 is my engine coolant fan, (purple lines), it switches on (1) when the engine temp is higher than ~205F (which is "Fan Desired" = 22).
Fan 1 switches off (0) when the engine temp is lower than ~199F (which is "Fan Desired" = 12).

The blue lines are for reading the AC system vapor pressure sensor, and then turning on/off Fan 2 according to the tables above.
Or in a Goblin, since we don't use the AC system, you could put a different 5V sensor instead of the AC system vapor pressure sensor. Maybe a 5V oil pressure sensor. Then the PCM would read the new oil pressure sensor, and report on it on the AC pressure PID. I'm not sure what PID that is, but I know HP Tuners can see and report on it. Wikipedia doesn't list the AC Pressure sensor... unless it is one of the Evap system pressures:
Maybe the Evap vapor pressure sensor could be repurposed too?

PIDs
(hex)
PID
(Dec)
Data bytes returnedDescriptionMin valueMin valueUnitsFormula[a]
0551Engine coolant temperature-40215°C
{\displaystyle A-40}
32502Evap. System Vapor Pressure-8,1928191.75Pa
{\displaystyle {\frac {256A+B}{4}}}
(AB is two's complement signed)[3]
53832Absolute Evap system Vapor Pressure0327.675kPa
{\displaystyle {\frac {256A+B}{200}}}
54842Evap system vapor pressure-32,76832,767Pa
{\displaystyle 256A+B}
(AB is two's complement signed)[3]

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Ross

Goblin Guru
My clutch pedal has been acting bad - it will suddenly change it's engagement point. I replaced the clutch master, but the problem persists. So I'm off to pull the engine, to replace the clutch slave, and inspect the clutch for the first time.
Since I have to split the engine from the transmission, I thought I would pull the engine, leaving the transmission in the frame.
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It didn't work, as the arrow shows that I was able to pull the engine back 1/8", and now the circle shows where it contacts the frame.
So there just isn't enough room to pull the engine. I will have to pull both the engine and transmission.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Oops, looks like a little touch up needed on the frame, sorry to see this didn't work out. Is a good lesson learned for all of us - pull the engine and transmission together before performing any clutch work. BTW, make sure there is no hydraulic fluid in the bottom of the bell housing area - could be an indicating the slave is over extending and may need to be shimmed for proper travel when the clutch pedal is pushed.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
I loosened the engine bolts, disconnected front and rear mounts and put straps around the engine and rear crossbar. Then removed the subframe and axles was able to work the trans free after that. Its takes a bit of muscle to lift it back in. next time I do it I will be wearing thicker pants and shirt.
 
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