Separating transmission from engine and reassembly

#1
First time working on a FWD vehicle drivetrain, im used to LSX drivetrains. Engine/Transmission all stripped down and cleaned. Starting to prep for painting and would prefer to separate the two for paint and then reassemble. Anything to note for separating and reassembly? Any available quick write ups or alignment/etc requirements when re-assembling?

Thanks All!
 

jamesm

Well-Known Member
#2
I'd be interested in that info too. I'm planning on replacing the clutch in mine this weekend so it'd be nice to know any tips or tricks for cracking it and reassembling.
 
#4
Thanks for the responses. Mine is a automatic so i may be the exception. Trying to find diagrams, i realize this is pretty basic. Should i assume there is a Torque Converter attached to the flex plate that needs to be disconnected in the bell housing through the starter opening? Then ensure the TC stays pressed against the engine while removing? I know on my LS6 is was a bit of a pain getting the TC "All" the way back on the shaft when i removed it with the transmission. Is all this just the same? Thanks!
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
#5
Much of it is the same as other vehicles.

Make sure to use the clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch (if manual).

With automatics, when installing the transmission, loosen/remove the bolts on the torque converter to joint the transmission to the engine. Tighten the bolts through the starter opening.
 
#6
If it's a manual the clutch bolts are torque to yield also. I'm not sure about the auto or if it is really even necessary to replace them but I did just to be safe
 

Dre

Well-Known Member
#7
If it's a manual the clutch bolts are torque to yield also. I'm not sure about the auto or if it is really even necessary to replace them but I did just to be safe
Are you referring to the 6 slim head bolts that attach to the flywheel?
 

jamesm

Well-Known Member
#11
Where did you see that those were tty? My clutch kit didn't include any bolts or references to needing new bolts.
 

Dre

Well-Known Member
#12
I'll look in the Haynes manual I have when I get home to confirm or not. My kit did not include bolts either.
 
#13
Well the gm guy said they are one use and stretch to torque so I went ahead and bought them. He is in the business of selling them though lol
 
#16
They were all super interested in the build and loved the pics so they gave 10% off haha. It was still more expensive than gmpartsdirect but I didnt want to wait
 

jamesm

Well-Known Member
#17
So following back up here, the engine and transmission are super easy to split. I replaced the clutch and stuff in mine today. We had some boards under the trans to hold it up and we left the engine attached to the hoist. Once we removed all the bolts, it took very little effort to pry the cases apart. The only issue we had was when when we removed the thermostat neck to get to one of the bolts, we found out that one of the holes was kinda stripped so we had to chase it with a tap to clean it up and find another bolt to go in it.
 
#18
So following back up here, the engine and transmission are super easy to split. I replaced the clutch and stuff in mine today. We had some boards under the trans to hold it up and we left the engine attached to the hoist. Once we removed all the bolts, it took very little effort to pry the cases apart. The only issue we had was when when we removed the thermostat neck to get to one of the bolts, we found out that one of the holes was kinda stripped so we had to chase it with a tap to clean it up and find another bolt to go in it.
Yeah, they are not as scary once you have done it. I found out someone had put the wrong bolts in the wrong place previously. I ended up getting all new yellow zinc bolts (which in the end it kind of a waste because you can't see hardly any of them when it's all finished).