Shadow Lou Racing, street,track,autocross Goblin

BAR-AIR

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Just curious is that going to be an issue (vibration) with the engine directly mounted to the frame. Upper mounts directly to the frame.
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
Not if the lower mount are not rubber. The engine vibration without balance shafts is not an issue especially if the rotating mass has been balanced. A few year back built an ecotec SAAB engine naturally as per ate for circle track with a 9000+ rpm range.

Brad
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
George said:
The balance shafts do make the engine smoother at idle and low speed mostly. By installing the neutral balance shaft the engine produces a littLe more hp and acclerats quicker. By totally removing all the shaft altogether and using a shorter chain you will gain more
Note the balance shaft turns twice crank speed.

Brad
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Did you restrict the oil passages? Installing caps is one thing but aren’t there 2 passages per balance shaft?
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
ctuinstra said:
What's the purpose of getting rid of the balance shafts, less rotating mass? Don't they help with vibrations?
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More than anything it allows you to spin to a much higher rpm. But if you aren’t upgrading cams and valves that’s pointless as the stock engine loses power past 6k
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
The only bearing area that has a pass through is the one next to the water pump, feeds balance chain tensioner. Made a passage for that one. The engine quicker from any rpm when it does not have to turn the balance shaft twice crank speed. I do have stage 2 cams and upgrade valve spring, the cylinder head is ported, will install 60lb injectors after I get it running. Also went with ATI dampner and aluminum flywheel but not the 7.5" clutch.
Deleting the balance shaft is not a absolute requirement just something I wanted to do. The lower end is being built to take about any thing I through at it. Need to learn to drive the car before going for MAX power.

Brad
 
TheNuker

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
JSATX said:
More than anything it allows you to spin to a much higher rpm. But if you aren’t upgrading cams and valves that’s pointless as the stock engine loses power past 6k
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I’m not so sure about that lol, you know how many times I have bounced off fuel cut off not paying attention to redline at 6500 because it is still pulling hard!

Nuker
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
TheNuker said:
I’m not so sure about that lol, you know how many times I have bounced off fuel cut off not paying attention to redline at 6500 because it is still pulling hard!

Nuker
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Pulling hard and pulling harder than it was at 5,500 is two different things! But yes I totally know what you mean. I legit thought I had engine troubles for the first few pulls until I realized I was hitting limiter. I’m only used to limiters that actually let you know youre on it by bouncing the RPM, so that’s why I installed shift lights.
 
Silverback

Silverback

Well-Known Member
George said:
The only bearing area that has a pass through is the one next to the water pump, feeds balance chain tensioner. Made a passage for that one. The engine quicker from any rpm when it does not have to turn the balance shaft twice crank speed. I do have stage 2 cams and upgrade valve spring, the cylinder head is ported, will install 60lb injectors after I get it running. Also went with ATI dampner and aluminum flywheel but not the 7.5" clutch.
Deleting the balance shaft is not a absolute requirement just something I wanted to do. The lower end is being built to take about any thing I through at it. Need to learn to drive the car before going for MAX power.

Brad
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I like where you're going with this.
  • What water pump will you use?
  • Will you use something like the Davies Craig pump & fan controller?
  • Will you remove the water pump impeller or is there a block-off plate for the pump?
  • Will you use a water neck block-off like CBM's?
 
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George

George

Goblin Guru
I will running the stock water pump, just not the balance shafts with a shorter chain. So the water pump is stock.
The electric water pump would be the most efficient when properly controlled. I I was planing on turning the engine over 10,000 rpm then would use electric pump, drag racing where you would not need and alternator just run off battery voltage. On the circle track cars pictured to eh left we never run a charging and could run 50 laps no problem just for less loss of power. Will not be blocking off any of the cooling passages.

Brad
 

Attachments

Silverback

Silverback

Well-Known Member
George said:
I will running the stock water pump, just not the balance shafts with a shorter chain. So the water pump is stock..
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If you fit an electric water pump, the engine driven water pump impeller can be removed along with the chain that drives both the balance shafts and water pump. You wouldn't have to remove the balance shafts, since they won't be driven, they'd just be 10 pounds of remaining dead weight. Functionally, it's a balance shaft delete. Might be worth 10-15 HP in the upper RPM range if you have an intelligent electric pump controller. And the procedure is easily reversible, which is not the case if you press in the rear balance shaft oil blocking plugs.
 
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George

George

Goblin Guru
Yes that would work very well. It would make more power at the crank than the way I am doing it.

Brad
 
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George

George

Goblin Guru
No accomplishment on Goblin this week. Decided will need to get another subframe to modify to change anti squat. Will also will use tubular control rods. Did some work on 1981 SAAB 8v turbo engine for a Bonneville car.
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
Quality of insulation would be my first consern. Second would be part reliabilty.
We service a lot of BMWs with electric water pump they usually last about 80,000 miles which is very acceptable.
I do not know reliability of after market
prodcuts. BMWs go into limp home if a water pump error ocures to protect the engine


Brad
 
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