Shadow Lou Racing, street,track,autocross Goblin

George

Well-Known Member
Hey brad I’m working on a balance shaft delete and was wondering where you got those caps on the front? I found the bushings to press into the oil passages but the only thing I could find for the front end still had the sprocket for the chain. I want to get rid of that balance shaft chain and run the shorter one like you did.
I made them. I machined them with a small flange and make it just fit. Then hollowed out the back side with a 1 degree tapper them made a plug with a 1 degree taper. Threaded the plug 8x1.25, drilled a hole in the face of the plug to put the bolt through and tighten. On one of the plugs you have to put a grove so that the balance chain tensioner get oil pressure. Do not know of any one the supplies them. Give me a call if you need to.

Brad
 

George

Well-Known Member
I made them. I machined them with a small flange and make it just fit. Then hollowed out the back side with a 1 degree tapper them made a plug with a 1 degree taper. Threaded the plug 8x1.25, drilled a hole in the face of the plug to put the bolt through and tighten. On one of the plugs you have to put a grove so that the balance chain tensioner get oil pressure. Do not know of any one the supplies them. Give me a call if you need to.

Brad
Just remembered I think you were going with an electric water pump. If that is the case you can just put plugs in both ends of the front balance shaft bearing support. Use a straight thread because a tapered thread will make it expand and not fit back in the hole.

Brad
 

George

Well-Known Member
It holds the wire to be soldiered you turn the knob with your thumb to advance the soldier. Yes it is a little high tech but works great when trying to do it under the dash of a car.

Brad
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
Neat idea. You could probably also use solder sleeves which is a little piece of heat shrink with a ring of solder in the middle. You heat it up with a heat gun and it melts the solder and shrinks the heat shrink all at the same time.
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
If you're a solder stickler like me, then there is one problem with using these. Some of my wiring was so oxidized it had a pretty dark coloration. Even with flux I had a hard time with getting the solder to wet the wire. I'd have to go over it a couple times and had to hold heat on it a lot longer than necessary to get it to tin halfway decent. I got so frustrated with this for my ground wiring that I went out and bought new fresh copper wire just so I wouldn't have to deal with the oxidation. If I had used solder sleeves, I would have been left with a questionable joint.

You did right by not using them. They do have there time and place, however.
 

George

Well-Known Member
Planing on running at Heartland Park Topeka for tack night on the 31st with my Goblin, Got a waiver but have to have fenders and windscreen.

Brad
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
If you're a solder stickler like me, then there is one problem with using these. Some of my wiring was so oxidized it had a pretty dark coloration. Even with flux I had a hard time with getting the solder to wet the wire. I'd have to go over it a couple times and had to hold heat on it a lot longer than necessary to get it to tin halfway decent. I got so frustrated with this for my ground wiring that I went out and bought new fresh copper wire just so I wouldn't have to deal with the oxidation. If I had used solder sleeves, I would have been left with a questionable joint.

You did right by not using them. They do have there time and place, however.
When I run into this, I fan out the wires and physical clean them by pinching them with Scotch-Brite and pulling off the end of the wire or a knife and scraping them lightly to get the worst of it. Then I use extra flux from plumbing on the end of the solder.

Your right, its a pain in the butt soldering corroded wire.
 

George

Well-Known Member
The spring is Eibach EIB0175-250-0150, The floater divider is Hypercoil HYP18DS100, I thined the divider portion by 0.100" to get the ride height lower, as it tuned out the adjusters had to be run all the way to the bottom to get ride height with 400# springs. I have ordered a liter tender spring from Hypercoil CS100 it is 25# per inch with 4" free
length. Still experimenting only got to drive in parking lots so far but I like the change. Hopefully I will have an update on my rear suspension modifications.

Brad
 

George

Well-Known Member
Install my lower ball joint extenders, Lowered car 1" in the back. Increased my rear roll center. Frame rails are now parallel to the ground with 5" ground clearance. Also modified the position of the inner tie rods to give 0 bump steer.
lowered rear spring rate to 150# from 300#. With the 300# spring suspension would not collapse any. Need to see if axle angle causes any issues. Note the springs a 10" long to help prevent coil bind.

Brad
 

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George

Well-Known Member
They hookup very well, have lowered tire pressure to 20psi at 30 they are quite loose.
I have spiped the rear for even better bite. I used 16 inch wheels so that the side wall is a little taller to make the tread more compliant to the road since the rear suspension has poor camber gain.
 

BaltimoreHokie

Well-Known Member
Took car to dyno last night here are the results. The dyno was a Land and Sea inertia dyno with 38lb rollers.
Solved my idle issues as well as the tune.

Brad
Nice that is pretty much exactly the numbers I am going to shoot for. Can you give us a run down of the performance modifications?
 

George

Well-Known Member
Forged rods, forged pistons that have been hard anodized, ceramic coating on tops and skirts builtup to reduce piston to wall clearance. Uprated valve springs, ported cylinder head, stage 2 ZZP supercharger cams, no balance shafts.
Stock supercharger with 2.8" pulley and ATI oversize crank plulley. 60# injectors and Aquimist water injection. Heat exchanger is 24x7x2 mounted at rear of car in air flow. Aluminum flywheel and uprated clutch

Brad