Steve's City Ext 09 Turbo

#1
I'm going to try to start my build log however I picked up the chassis and donor the first of March. I bought the 2009 Turbo at IAAI, Lonny stored it for me until my chassis was done so I could pick both up at the same time. I paid approx. $3k with fees, it has 57k miles. It was hit in the front but not a lot of damage, however after digging into it I could see it was in a front-end collision sometime. The donor is stripped, I have been working on the wiring harness. I have been somewhat unorthodox on my build process, not exactly following Lonny's videos, which was a mistake. I actually have the front suspension on and the motor in. I have run into a couple of issues with the wiring process. I cut the ambient sensor out which I think was a mistake and for the life of me, I can't see where I cut it from or where the sensor was on the car. I checked the multi-plugs thinking I would see the cut stub wire but nothing. Not sure if the two wires are coming out of the ECU plug or the BCM. I also cut the temp sensor but I think I found the wires to re-solder. I cut the light sensor as well which I do think I need and that I am having a hard time finding where that originated from. I have taped the harness coming out of the control box so I may have to open all that back up again. My big problem is I haven't worked on it consistently and since I have CRS, I really get into trouble. If anyone know where these wires originate from I would appreciate a reply. thanks
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
#3
Also, I don't believe the light sensor is critical. Most builders probably remove it. I chose to keep my sensor because the Dominator lights have a third wire that I'll be using for DRLs. That's probably not what it was designed to do, but I think it will work just fine.

The ambient temperature also isn't critical. If you don't hook it up, you'll just have a "--" in the driver information center. I don't think it's used for anything engine related.
 
#4
Also, I don't believe the light sensor is critical. Most builders probably remove it. I chose to keep my sensor because the Dominator lights have a third wire that I'll be using for DRLs. That's probably not what it was designed to do, but I think it will work just fine.

The ambient temperature also isn't critical. If you don't hook it up, you'll just have a "--" in the driver information center. I don't think it's used for anything engine related.
thanks for the info Brian.
 
#5
One thing when I say I have the motor in and some suspension on, I'm just working on test fitting everything, nothing is cleaned or painted yet. I am going to start working on my own body once I know the harness is good to go. I like the Goblin body, but want to make something unique. I have a long way to go yet.
 
#6
Starting to work on the Goblin again. My wheels showed up today, I am very happy how they look. Fronts 16x7x114.3; Rear 17x8x114.3. Got my seats a while back, happy with those as well, but they are not designed for a 5 point harness. I finished my rear bumper, I incorporated a hitch for it so I can pull a trailer when I go on my west coast highway trip. Going to work on making a splitter for the front for my front body pieces. I am using the stock struts since the donor had only had 56k miles. I cut the large spring perch off so I can use a coil over kit that I purchased from Speedway motors. I still need to figure out the spring rate, but I might use the front springs that came with the kit to see how it works. Need to get it on the scales to see what the corner weights are. Will post pics on that later. I put power to the harness to see what works, The "power steering" notice is showing up on my dash, not sure what that's about, I checked, it's getting power. The high beam fuses don't have any power to them but the low beams do, not sure about that either. Still haven't got the intercooler pump and fan wiring figured out yet. Here is a picture of a wheel, seat and rear bumper.
 

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#8
Thanks for the suggestion Briann1177. I did have it plugged in, but the plug that runs through the 50 amp fuse was not making a good connection, the original quick disconnect piece was cut out so I bought a different 50 amp quick disconnect, but it's a piece of crap. I do have power to everything now, it even turns over and I have spark. I won't try to see if it will run until I have the motor back in a clean and painted chassis. Plus I don't have any of the sensors hooked up. I did have the motor running before I pulled it out of the car.
 
#9
I got my shocks modified to fit a coil over kit. I mentioned earlier that I cut-off the big spring perch with a cut-off wheel then ground down the sharp edges. I put the whole shock in a 4 chuck lathe, it worked really well, my neighbor did most of the work on his lathe, I have a cheap harbor freight lathe, his is a little nicer. I left the part where the spring perch was welded to the shock which left a nice substitute for the retaining ring that you would normally use to hold the adjustable sleeve in place. Since my donor had low miles, I wasn't worried about the shocks being bad. This turned out to be a pretty cheap upgrade, it costs me approx $85 for the coil kits. All I have to do now is buy springs for the rear. I used one of the front springs for the pictures.
 

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TheNuker

Well-Known Member
#13
This has been my aspiration, to make this an enclosed LMP like car. I wish I could get the goblin frame in CAD then I could start designing one.

Nuker-

Because I have been eyeballing the Superlight SL-C lately..... And I would like to stay married.
 
#14
You and I are thinking the same way, I would love to build the SL-C, but I don't know if I have the talent, but might give it a try someday if I can get all my other projects done. Once I get this done, I will have master molds made and if you like what I did, just let me know I can have pieces made from the master.
 
#15
Working on getting the front spitter lined up square with the chassis and the mounts welded to the bottom main tubes on the chassis. The splitter material I used was from an old sign with the outside layer made from aluminum with some kind of plastic honeycomb material in the middle. It is very lite and very rigid, looks like it should work very well. I may try to make some additional supports, but I will have to see once I get the front noise mounted.
 

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#16
I needed to make sure I had the wheels/tires square with everything so here are pics of what I did. When I looked at everything from the front it always seemed like the front and rear tires didn't track exactly but thought it was an optical illusion. I used some square tube and channel pieces to clamp to either the rotor or hub. The passenger side lines up really well but the drivers side does not, the rear wheel is offset in maybe 4 inches or so, (I didn't measure the exact amount). The rear wheels are square with each other and the fronts have approx. 1/4 inch toe in. Is the the way it is supposed to be or did I screw something up?
 

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#17
My front fender pieces needed some additional body work added so I cut some aluminum in the general shape I wanted, I then riveted it to the fender, lined it with aluminum foil to act as a release. Let it cure over night and pulled the aluminum piece from the fender. The foil remained but I should be able to pull the foil away from the fiberglass then I can put body filler on to get it where it will be ready to paint. Sometimes I use l lead weights to hold stuff in place which is why you see them in the pics.
 

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ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
#18
I needed to make sure I had the wheels/tires square with everything so here are pics of what I did. When I looked at everything from the front it always seemed like the front and rear tires didn't track exactly but thought it was an optical illusion. I used some square tube and channel pieces to clamp to either the rotor or hub. The passenger side lines up really well but the drivers side does not, the rear wheel is offset in maybe 4 inches or so, (I didn't measure the exact amount). The rear wheels are square with each other and the fronts have approx. 1/4 inch toe in. Is the the way it is supposed to be or did I screw something up?
The front are rear toe are not correct with the frame. Also, did you count the threads on the top and bottom links (heim joints), it looks like you have them pretty much bottomed out. I can't remember for sure, but I don't think the front and rear track the same, one is wider than the other so you are not going to get the to run in a line.
 
#19
OK thanks, I figured the front and rear tires where not going to track, just wanted to make sure I didn't do something wrong. I'm just trying to get things semi-close to fit he body I'm working on. I will take the chassis to get it aligned once I get it powder coated.
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
#20
Align is when you are completely done. I recommend sitting in the car also while they align it. The weight and balance makes a big difference.