syntroniks' City Goblin - Pontiac G5 donor

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I'm somewhat sure you're going to have a constant brake light on without your reservoir hooked up. Then when you run low on fluid you'll never know.

The only part I'm not real sure about is if the light will stay on anyways without the parking brake wire hooked up.

My service manual says if the park brake switch is shorted to ground then the brake light will come on. Since most people remove that wire, it shouldn't be shorted to ground.

This is all theoretically speaking.
Based on a 2009.
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Brian74

Goblin Guru
I forgot about the EBCM. I just assumed it would turn on the ABS and TCS lights with that part missing.

Thanks.
According to that wiring diagram, its based on an SS. It still doesn’t clarify that the EBCM specifically requests a brake light. That could just be a data signal back to the EBCM to disable certain features when the brake light is on.
 
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Cool,

Good thing I don't have an EBCM -- it is pretty cool though.

I wish we could do away with some of the security features. Silly low-speed communications bus. At least it isn't reworking modern VW wiring... Now that's complicated.
From what I understand, the key chip reader, BCM, ECU, and IPC need that green wire 10.4k low speed bus. It also goes to the OBD2 connector.
The the ECU, BCM, EPS, and OBD2 connector seem to need the high-speed bus wires. Mine ended up coming up short between the ECU and the rest of the harness. I will use left over ABS twisted pair wires to extend by about 1 foot.

This week I'm going to finish extending wires and temporarily tape the harness before test fitting it in the frame next month (hopefully).

Oh, and I should add that I think my manual donor had the automatic transmission PRNDL connector. I cut it out hoping I was right.
 
So it has been a while. The frame has been powdercoated Illusion Royal with clear vision on top.
The black parts are Tiger fine texture or something like that. It looks purple in shade and blue in bright light.

Have some pictures:
Prepping for hose pulling (used paracord), it sure was tough!

Before sheet metal

...and after (don't use a hand riveter like me unless you want to have a bad time)

Sure does look good!

I painted the steering rack at the last minute. It was a good idea and I am glad I did it.

I used the pedal box support tube to carry ground from the chassis to the pedal box and the dash grounds. Strip off the paint and powdercoat before installing the pedal box.

And an inside view

Finishing some electrical. After this, I hooked up the fuse block and a portable battery pack. The gauge panel lights up and I can activate the starter relay. Headlight relays function too. I'm hoping for a bug-free electrical install! (will have to bypass things like the dimmer and brake fluid level switch and I omitted the temp sensor)

Whew. That's a few weekends of work logged.
I wish I was set up to bend brake lines myself. I found myself wrangling them around a bit to fall where I wanted them.
 
Long time no update. Took some time off in the heat of summer.

Engine ready to go in. It is rather easy to lift the frame up and drop it onto the engine with one person. After the engine was installed, I only dropped the car twice. Talk about scary. It gets heavy quick, and the center of gravity may not be where you think it is! Install that battery!

This would be a cool ride height. It looked super low and super cool.

I kinda just picked radiator hoses and guessed where they should go. I'm somewhat pleased with the setup but maybe welding stainless hardlines would be a fun exercise.

So I'm using a suburban fuel pump. My fuel gauge will probably never work properly. If I had to do it again, I would probably do the same thing, or just get a custom/universal pump. I have fuel tank pressure now, but it is only going to read atmospheric due to no evap system. Now I have 3 vents to tie together...

This is the fuel system setup now. I have been informed that my fuel filter is not appropriate and I should get a fuellabs unit. Maybe I'll risk it, maybe not. Maybe I'll get a real return-style fuel rail and plumb in a flex fuel sensor. Stay tuned.

Suspension is fun and goes quick. Did I remember to torque the wheel hub bolts? Who knows?

This is what things look like with the engine installed. Pretty good.

These coil springs look better than coilovers (IMO) But they sure are a pain to work with.

Waiting on some parts. Make sure you install shocks so that you can reach the adjuster. Make sure you install the control arms in the right orientation.


So far so good. I'm dreading bleeding the hydraulics. I hate brake fluid and I hate brake fluid and I hate leaks and I hate air bubbles.
On the plus side, I may have scored a cool brake fluid reservoir https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/coolant-overflow-tanks/subaru-coolant-overflow-tank-sti-2008-2019-wrx-2008-2019-2-5gt-2009-2010 or https://www.ebay.com/i/272454471969?chn=ps
We'll see how it works someday maybe.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
One thing I learned about installing new brake lines. If you think you have them tight and they won't leak, you don't have it tight enough. I thought I tightened all of the fittings to the point I thought they would strip and they still leaked. This time I tightened them and then loosened them and re-tightened them multiple times; and this is using the proper brake line wrench.

I had a couple of spots that leaked onto the powder coating of the frame and sat there and ate into the powder coating. That really upset me. I'm hoping to completely avoid it this time. I'm going to take a lot more time to prevent it.
 
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