Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

Tony

Well-Known Member
Haven't had much of a chance to mess with it this last week. I've got my Trans Am stored at my work and they want it out, so I've been working on that.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Well, finally had a chance to do a little testing today, and made a little progress. First checked the wires at the clutch sensor, and was missing the +5V. Much earlier in the thread, I noted where I'd accidentally cut that wire out and had to re-run it. I discovered I put it back in the wrong pin in the large front-rear connector (that most people remove, per the videos). I fixed that, and then was able to confirm that the clutch sensor is working properly. Unfortunately, still no crank! Still seeing 8.6V at the relay socket that comes from the ECM, which I did verify is connected to the proper pin on the ECM connector. I'm starting to worry that the only thing left is bad ECM.
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
Well, finally had a chance to do a little testing today, and made a little progress. First checked the wires at the clutch sensor, and was missing the +5V. Much earlier in the thread, I noted where I'd accidentally cut that wire out and had to re-run it. I discovered I put it back in the wrong pin in the large front-rear connector (that most people remove, per the videos). I fixed that, and then was able to confirm that the clutch sensor is working properly. Unfortunately, still no crank! Still seeing 8.6V at the relay socket that comes from the ECM, which I did verify is connected to the proper pin on the ECM connector. I'm starting to worry that the only thing left is bad ECM.
8.6v is a very odd voltage to measure. What exact pin on the relay socket did you measure that from? When cranking (or attempting to) or at just ignition on?

I have a spare used ECM for a SS/SC (P12). I bought it thinking I might need it. It would have to be programmed or set up to be used in your vehicle if it would work in it.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
it turned over though when it was still in the donor didn't it?
Yep
8.6v is a very odd voltage to measure. What exact pin on the relay socket did you measure that from? When cranking (or attempting to) or at just ignition on?

I have a spare used ECM for a SS/SC (P12). I bought it thinking I might need it. It would have to be programmed or set up to be used in your vehicle if it would work in it.
It stays the same in run or crank. It's the top left pin when looking at it in the same orientation as the diagram on the lid.
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
I hope to have my brakes hooked up and bled in the very near future. After that I'll hook the fuse box back up and I can do some probing around for you.

So you're getting 8.6V on the purple/white wire that runs from the ECM to the CRNK relay?
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
Also, I really don't think your ECM is toast as it was running before you pulled it apart. I think you have some other gremlins lingering around in the wiring. Looks like you found a couple of them already.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
So you're getting 8.6V on the purple/white wire that runs from the ECM to the CRNK relay?
Correct, run or crank. Fuel pump works normally.

The car only sort of ran when I got it. As I mentioned in the first couple posts, I was able to jump it and it ran briefly once, due to the broken intake piping I assumed. But I later found out that the battery wasn't hooked up and it was just running on jump/alt, so I'm worried that damaged the ECM.
 
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Tony

Well-Known Member
Last I checked (before fixing the +5V to the CPP sensor), there was a code for the clutch sensor, and maybe the throttle position sensor. I don't recall for sure, but I need to check again.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Well I'm an idiot. Checked for codes, but wasn't getting a reading. Fiddled around a bit and found one of the BCM connectors I had unplugged to diagnose a previous issue wasn't seated all the way. Plugged it in, and got crank! Time to run the rest of the plumbing and try for a start!
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Good progress today! Like I mentioned in another thread, I couldn't get the Dayco 71796, but I grabbed a 72311, and it worked just fine. 71796 on top, 72311 on bottom.

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More importantly, once that was done, I took a big jump - first start! I'll upload the video later (actually the second), but I'm excited. I need to get the IC piping hooked up so I can hear the turbo.
 
Those hoses look like they worked out perfect!

Congratulations on the first start! There is nothing like that feeling of hearing the engine come to life again! I remember the last day we ran the donor car and disconnected the battery. It was dead and not to come back to life until it was reborn in the Goblin. It won't be long and you will get experience the first trip out on the open road (and realize you have a lot of little things to fix).
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Worked on getting turbo piping hooked up this weekend, and made some good progress, but I have a few questions. First, I want to make sure I've got everything in the right place. It seems like there's only one way it can go, but it can't hurt to double check. I've got the smaller diameter sensor pipe with a slight bend at one end between the intercooler and throttle body, with one sensor that I located in my donor part box. I'm guessing the second (threaded) port on that tube is for an IAT sensor, but I can't find one in my box. Never mind the extra hose clamp, I need to find some screws.


My big concern is the inlet pipe - it has less than a quarter inch clearance to the strut and to the frame. I know that once it's on the ground and the suspension is compressed, there will be a little more room, but it still seems tight.


I'm fairly certain I have the MAF tube right, as it's fairly idiot proof, but again there's a second port. I'm guessing that is for the hose that runs to the valve cover port under the turbo compressor outlet?
 
In your first picture, the there should be a brass elbow that will screw into that empty hole. The vacuum line that runs from your turbo bypass solenoid on your intake will hook up there.

On your last picture, yes, you need to run a line from your valve cover over to your intake pipe. Make sure you hook up your PCV too and it's flowing in the right direction. I took the existing lines off mine and just used some standard rubber hose.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Ok, so the line labeled 2 in this picture should go to the intake pipe right before the TB?


Then the quick-connect port on the valve cover goes to the MAF tube, like this picture?
 
Yes, the line from the valve cover is the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) and will connect downstream from the air filter and before the throttle body. This way it burns the venting from the crank. I actually just put a filter on it and vent it to atmosphere on our SS/SC. It's an easier set up. Doesn't meet emission standards though.