Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, I'll get those two lines hooked up, along with the brake booster vac hose, then that should be it apart from heat exchanger plumbing. Does anyone have pics of where the pump gets mounted with the new setup?
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Well it's been a long time with unfortunately not a lot to report. As hot as it has been here, and with the Goblin still stuck in my brother's non-insulated garage, it's been unbearable. Finally got a cool day yesterday, so I wanted to see if I could get the car moved to the new shop. All I need to be able to push it the 3 blocks is to get the spindle nuts on the rear so I can put the wheels on. The old spindle nut didn't want to go back on the driver's side axle, so I went ahead and got some new ones at O'reilly since they're supposed to be one-use anyway. However, the new nut still wouldn't go on the driver's side axle. The threads don't appear damaged as far as I can tell, so I'm not sure what's going on. I'll see about pulling the axle and bringing it to work to chase the threads if we have a proper die, but I'm hoping not to need to replace an axle.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Wow, almost 4 months since my last update. It's been quite a whirlwind. Since then, apart from the long process of moving everything into the new shop, my brother (roommate) broke his ankle (which meant me taking care of him for a while), I lost my job again, my other brother's trans kicked back once again... and as soon as that was done, I managed to break my foot getting out of bed. Luckily it was a very minor break (Jones fracture), and one that I've had experience with (since I did it to my other foot back in high school), because no job = no insurance :rolleyes:

Anyway, with both of us back to work now, and everything finally moved in, I can finally dive back in a bit.


First small step is cleaning up the headlight wiring block, so I can finally get the wiring out, wrapped, and back in for good. It's been too long and I can barely remember everything. I'm pretty confident that the bottom are headlights, left are side markers, and top is horn. I don't recall what the black and orange two-pin on the top left is. Also, can the side marker wires be deleted?
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
I considered that, but I figured the headlight connector had a DRL/turn signal wire in it that I could use.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Working on buttoning up as many little tedious items as I can. Yesterday I worked on vent and vacuum lines. I finally got a good handle on the maze of lines on the LNF. I had a bit of the dilemma with the crankcase vent hose (from VC to MAF tube) - the plastic tube on the Cobalt had a quick connect fitting that was broken off inside the one-way valve. Then to make it worse, the PO had repaired it with duct tape, so it was sticky and gross. I had to butcher the quick-connect fitting to get the broken piece out, so there was no reusing it, but I couldn't get the valve off the hose. I dug through some bins and found an NPT to hose barb fitting that screwed into the remainder of the valve, so along with some seal-fix tape and heat shrink, I think it turned out alright.



Also finally took care of the fuel tank vent line and the brake booster vacuum hose, as well as repairing some of the wrapping on my engine harness. I started to plumb the intercooler, and got the hard lines into the tunnel, but the short length of hose I had (maybe came with the kit?) was not enough. I am at a loss as to how the brackets on the heat exchanger are supposed to mount up front. I also still haven't figured out the black/orange two-pin connector in the image above, though I found the fitting on the brake booster has a 3-pin plug with nothing to plug into it... going backwards there.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pic. I kind of guessed that was where it should be, but the brake lines are currently attached there, so I guess I'll need to find a way to work around that. I figured nothing plugged into the booster since I didn't remember seeing or reading anything about it - I just thought for a minute I had solved my mystery plug until I looked closer :rolleyes:
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Here's a good pic of that area on my car. I'm guessing the brake line can just be attached at the back of that cross tube instead of the top. It also looks like I might need to trim the end of the lower hose as well to tuck it up closer to the radiator.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Finally got the last coolant hose hooked up so I can get the system filled and bled/burped. If anyone else is still looking for a good heater bypass hose, here's the one I used. No idea what car it's supposed to go on, but it has the appropriate bends.



Also finally determined that the orange and black plug on the headlight block is for the washer pump, so it can go. I've started the tedious process of removing the harness to wrap and organize it.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Getting back to work after some seasonal malaise... almost done reorganizing and wrapping the wire harness. I've added in the radiator fan wire, extended the coolant level sensor to the back, integrated the headlight harness and horn, etc. Originally, I wanted to keep the I/P-Body harness connector, but I've determined it's too big to fit in the tunnel with the intercooler coolant lines and other stuff. Plus, despite my efforts, that "half" of the harness ended up quite a bit shorter than the other (body harness BCM connectors). I started this time by wrapping in from both ends until I had mostly isolated the portion in the tunnel. I'm almost done clipping and extending the wires from the connector.


One note that others may have come across, but I had to look up - there is a tan wire in the body half of the connector (pin B12) that I didn't have in the other half of the connector. I was worried, but it seems it was an option. The wire is a boost sensor signal, which is only used if the car is not optioned with the DIC (performance monitor screen thing).

For the headlights, I pulled the turn signal pin out of the shorter of the two connectors (which was the pass headlight I believe) and extended it to the other connector, which had an open cavity. I left that connector as is, which puts it right around the tunnel ground location. Plan is to leave it broken out there and make up a separate headlight harness. That way I can go ahead and run plain halogen headlights for now, then change it up later if I want to go with HIDs or something, and have a more convenient place to mount ballasts/relays.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Much better. Just need to finalize the location of the rad and IC fan and horn wires, then wrap the last couple feet. Looking forward to putting this behind me.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Finishing up plumbing the IC system, and got the heat exchanger mounted. Just need to plumb in the pump - wanted to make sure I had it in the right direction.


Then I laid in the finished harness for hopefully the last time. Almost everything seems to fit well - dash section is good, BCM and front fans/horn are good, and everything seems to fit the fuse box/ECM housing pretty well. I unfortunately seem to have added a little too much extra in the middle (though I only made one half the same length as the other, so...) and it's a bit long. I need to either bunch/fold it up in the tunnel or find a way to secure it out the back. Obviously the latter seems preferable, it would just require me to extend the rear tunnel ground (next to the headlight breakout).

Getting pretty excited, since all I'll have left after finishing these couple things is adding the brake lines from frame to caliper and bleeding, then adding the shifter, and I should be able to take a spin.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top