Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

Tony

Well-Known Member
Nice! Now I need to make a trip to Fastenal, as I didn't know they sold those. Best of all, I learned that they are called "shoulder" bolts.
My donor seats connected the latch to the seat, and I didn't need to rebolt them to the center tunnel.
That explains why the latch belts I had were from the rear seat... I didn't remember that they were part of the stock seats. I sold those really quickly after teardown.

If you want to save a trip, here's a more suitable bolt from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/91259a438
Their shipping can be annoyingly high, but it's an appropriate bolt.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
You confused me... when the 1/2 x 4" bolt wasn't long enough threads, you want to replace with 3.75"? That's shorter, not longer.
The threads are only about an inch long out of the 4", so the unthreaded portion is longer than the tube on the frame, meaning I couldn't tighten a nut down all the way.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Got the 3.5" bolts, and they fit perfect with 3 jam nuts. I took off the plastic backer/insert that holds the cover, since I didn't keep the covers. I think it looks fine. I used red loctite on all seatbelt bolts.


I also had an officer come by for the final inspection, which in Indiana is just confirming that the VIN is attached. I confirmed the location (behind the driver seat) and attached it, so he signed off. All I have left is to go to the BMV to apply for title/registration.


I also finally sucked it up and made my headlight harness. I had gotten tired of wiring, so I kept putting it off. Just need to crimp connectors to the ends. Now that's done, I just need to attach the parking brake handle and I can put the tunnel cap on. I decided against the mirror turn signals, just to avoid the extra wiring. I got some mini bullet marker lights that I'll mount next to the headlights.

 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Well, my trip to the BMV yesterday was about as unpleasant as I've had. The woman was clearly new and very inexperienced, and by then end of the hour it took, I think we had gone through everything at least 3 times. On top of that, I was not able to get the vanity plate I wanted (GBLN KNG, as I mentioned in a thread here a while ago), so I had to go with GOBLN KG. Not as clear, but I have an idea to make it work. Regardless, registration is done and I have a temp plate now, so I can test drive once it's ready. The whole process has been fairly painless overall, but a little convoluted. The title ended up showing MAKE: ROADSTER, MODEL: KIT CAR. Oh well.
 

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Sorry to hear about your experience.

Noticed it looks like your shock upper collar isn't seated in.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear about your experience.

Noticed it looks like your shock upper collar isn't seated in.
It isn't, the car is still on jack stands, so it's just hanging at the moment. Still working on attaching e-brake cable tubes.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
E-brake handle and cables (and tunnel cap) mounted and adjusted. Made a pretty simple bracket since my radiator tabs are gone.


 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Planning on bleeding brakes when I get home this afternoon, does anyone have an estimate on how much fluid is needed to completely fill the system? I've got 3 unopened 12oz bottles, just wondering if I need to make a stop on my way home to get more. With that, seat install, and a basic alignment, I'm hoping for a test drive tonight.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Brake fluid is cheap. By 2 or 3 quarts and take back any unopened bottles. I used like 7 quarts, but then again i had issues. It sucks to not have enough on hand if you run out in the middle of the process.
 

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
I had two of the small ones and went back and purchased teo large ones, but I had some left over. You prob have enough but never know.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Brake fluid is cheap. By 2 or 3 quarts and take back any unopened bottles. I used like 7 quarts, but then again i had issues. It sucks to not have enough on hand if you run out in the middle of the process.
I definitely agree, just thought I'd save myself the trip into town if anyone knew for sure that 3 bottles was enough haha.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Of course, it couldn't be that easy. As soon as I pressurized the brake system with the bleeder bottle, the rear tee started hemorrhaging profusely. I crawled under and tightened everything for good measure, but to no avail. The passenger side won't tighten properly. The gif shows how much movement the line has with the nut tightened as much as I can. It seems the nut is bottoming out before pressing the flare into place, and the witness marks on the nut seem to confirm that. Not really sure what to make of it... Anyone else have this problem?

 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
It's possible that the threads in the tee aren't running all the way down towards the seat. I say this from seeing no scuffing on top of the tubing flare and the first couple of threads are flattened down.

Can you post a pic of the threads a d seat inside the tee to see what it looks like?
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
My memory may be off, but I was under the impression that you were one of the early builders; could it be that your kit was one affected by the issue Bruce had in this thread?

 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Now that you bring that up, it does sound familiar. I know my kit was delivered shortly after this issue came up, because I accidentally got old and new front lines (tee to flex). Here's a pic of the front tee (which isn't leaking)... The nuts are gray and have a large hex, which the center line nut does at the back.


The left and right nuts at the rear are blue and have smaller hex. I'm guessing that's the difference between having threads all the way to the end or having a shoulder.


These are pics of the tee... Looks like the threads don't go all the way down.

 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Quick response from the guys at DF, I got new brake lines delivered and installed yesterday. Unfortunately, due to the mass leakage, I ran out of fluid, despite having picked up an extra quart. Clutch and brakes are fairly stiff, but not completely air-free I don't think. Also got the license plate in, so it's ready to roll :cool:

 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Well ****. I sent a follow-up email to American Modern Insurance to start a policy, which I got a quote for a month or so ago, only to get a reply stating that they "are no longer accepting open rail buggy’s in our collector vehicle program". Looks like I need to find a new insurance company :mad:
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Quick response from the guys at DF, I got new brake lines delivered and installed yesterday. Unfortunately, due to the mass leakage, I ran out of fluid, despite having picked up an extra quart. Clutch and brakes are fairly stiff, but not completely air-free I don't think. Also got the license plate in, so it's ready to roll :cool:

Can you take a picture of how the T looks with lines installed? Mine appears to be the same, the line nuts thread almost all the way into the T, and while it doesn’t appear to be leaking it is heavily corroded which makes me think it might be.
 
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