Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

Tony

Well-Known Member
I got a set of TPMS sensors installed when I ordered my tires/wheels from Tirerack.com but after the fact, they will not work due to needing to lower the pressure in the tires (lighter car does not need, or can use the higher "normal" pressures ... will wear out the center of the tire!)

I am guessing I will keep getting the warning but since my info center shows the actual tire pressures per wheel, it may still be helpful... I hope!

One year older (i.e. I have a 2008) 2007 and earlier did not have TPMS (at least in the LS versions).
That was kind of my thought, that it would be nice to see the values, but there may be a warning whether I have them or not. But since I didn't order tires/wheels from TireRack (or even both from the same place), I didn't have the option of having them installed. However, the RockAuto discount thread that was posted led me to some sensors there that are only a couple bucks, but that price seems too good to be true, so I'm not sure if that's all I'd need. EDIT: Never mind, that was just a service kit. That explains why it was so cheap haha

The spot brakes are not included with our kits.

We are creating parking brake kits for the Goblins for the customers that will need or want them. We still need to design the lever and cable system, then we will be able to price it out.
I would be interested in this addition. It sounds like I won't need to salvage the cable/handle from the donor if I'm understanding correctly.
 
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Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Keep the handle and cable assembly from your donor just in case. I would really like to be able reuse that system.
 

Tony

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Alright, I'll yank it out. That would definitely be handy if they are reusable, though my handle needs a new grip on it for sure.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Well a little update I guess. I've got the wiring about as far as I'm gonna take it until I get it in the frame. With the extended frame and whatever other little tweaks I end up doing, I don't want to tape/route/extend all the wires until I know exactly where they're going. So until the kit arrives, I'm working on some headlights to really shine. I've had HID projectors in previous cars, and as soon as you do that, it's hard to go back to regular lights.

I found a thread over on HIDPlanet that gave me some inspiration on making pods for a Mini H1 projector: link

I bought a couple cheap, mega shitty Chinesium fake security cameras and some ABS couplers, and found some cheap touch lights laying around the house (that were here when I moved in).


Disassembled the crappy electronics, and tossed everything but the camera dome and the trim ring from the touch light.


Trimmed the plastic dome to fit and glued it in.


I have an old morimoto mini h1 projector laying around that I use for projects like this.


Perfect fit with the mini gatling shroud.


Not bad. Need to trim the ABS piece to length so that the lens is closer to the cover and smooth things out. I'm gonna get a higher quality acrylic lens too, now that I know what works.
 
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Tony

Well-Known Member
Been a while since the last update, not a whole lot to report. Still waiting on my kit to arrive, Adam and Lonny's California trip put a little delay in the schedule. I'm working on headlights still, and made a pretty awesome discovery.

I did some digging, trying to find a way that I could assemble my headlights in a non-permanent way, so I could open them up for repairs if needed, and I found these food storage containers on Amazon, 3 for $18. They are steel (so I can weld to them) with a waterproof seal, as well as already having a hole in the lid.


The shroud is just too big to pass through the threaded top of the canister, but luckily that part pulls out pretty easy, and it fits right in.


A little foam tape around the edge of the shroud, and it's a perfect fit. I'll still cut the bottom off and add a plate with a hole to mount the threaded shaft of the projector, but that will be easy.


The clear plastic in the lid comes out pretty easy, so I'll still use the nice acrylic domes I bought, but all in all, a fantastic find, and a really easy way to get some quality lights.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Long overdue update - been doing a lot of yardwork (when weather allows) and other things around the house have kept me busy.

Yay for new tools! This should help in cleaning and fabricating various things.


For example, cleaning the grimy knuckles and making them as shiny as the LCAs.


But back to headlights... Another neat find - the ABS couplers I was going to use actually press fit into the metal canisters. All I need now is a big enough metal washer to graft onto the small end and accept the threaded shaft of the projector.


They look a little dusty here, but these acrylic domes are actually really clear (more so than the safety glasses I was wearing while cutting it, annoyingly). They ought to be, for $12 a pop.


Here's an exploded view of the assembly. The metal ring is currently just press fit onto the ABS coupler (as I'm still considering this a prototype), but it will be epoxied eventually. The threaded plastic part, however, will remain just press fit. It's actually a really tight fit, so I'm not concerned with it coming loose. Though I will probably glue the threads shut, since there really isn't a need for that part to separate.


Fully assembled, there is just a hair of clearance between the projector lens and the acrylic - perfect.


"But Tony!" you may be asking yourself. "Why go through all the trouble of putting in the threaded parts if you're just going to glue them shut? And what about the material of those threads - is the heat from the projector going to melt it?!" Well dear reader, these are great questions, and ones I asked myself as well, so I decided to do a test. One unmodified, uncut ABS coupler on the right, one canister lid with clear plastic and press-in threads removed on the left.


When pressed onto the coupler, the lid bottoms out just as the lip on the projector shroud **** near pilots on the inner diameter. What. The heck. Unfortunately, the press fit is not quite as tight as I'd like, so I'd probably have to put some tiny screws around the outside, but that may look alright. Also, since the projector lens protrudes through a bit more, I'll have to glue the acrylic to the outside of the lid, which means I'll need to be a little more delicate with it since it'll be visible (as opposed to the hidden joint on the left).


Whichever way I go, I'm planning to use something like this PVC fitting grafted onto the back to secure a grommet around the wires, sealing the whole unit.


So, as I mentioned this morning in the headlight thread, the only unknown I have left is the mounting strategy. One option would be to 3D print a U-shaped bracket like Justin did, but that would require purchasing filament for a friend's printer, and I honestly have no idea how much that costs. My preferred strategy would be to use the same (or similar) mount as the bottom-mount single dominators (as well as countless other "universal" style bottom mount headlights).

Unfortunately, after hours of searching, I can't seem to find a source to buy that sort of mount (specifically, the part that actually attaches to the headlight housing), so I may end up fabricating that part myself. Time (and a bit of time wandering though aisles at hardware stores) will tell.

Unrelated, I saw today that my frame is finally on the jig, so that is super exciting news!
 
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Tony

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It's here, it's here! Huge thanks to Lonny for making the long drive up in the crappy weather to deliver stage 1 and 2 parts. Now the real work begins.


Went ahead and moved the work table to the garage for convenience. Ended up doing a bit more wiring on the bench.


Threw in a cheapo Summit seat the roommate had laying around (car guy problems) just to get a seating position feel, and to sit in while I work. Started getting some things installed to be able to run wires to their destinations.


At this point, I was too eager to dive in, so I haven't really gotten all of the parts out and thoroughly looked at everything, but I have noticed a few things that seem to be missing. Lonny mentioned when he dropped everything off that there was still one steering piece that was not done, so it would be mailed to me (I think it's the tube that connects everything). I also wasn't able to find the brake tees in the boxes of hardware, but I haven't looked in the brake caliper boxes or anything. It would be really helpful to have an inventory document/sheet that lists all the parts for each stage (and maybe what they go with), does such a document exist?
 

PG5

Well-Known Member
I think that's the same seat my nephew has in his Gokart!

I bet you're excited! Are you going to assemble it then tear it down and paint it later?
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I think that's the same seat my nephew has in his Gokart!

I bet you're excited! Are you going to assemble it then tear it down and paint it later?
Yep, that's the plan. I'll need to weld a few random bits (seat brackets, license plate bracket, etc) and drill holes for the wiring/tubing clamps, so I'll get all that set before taking it to powder coating.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
It's here, it's here! Huge thanks to Lonny for making the long drive up in the crappy weather to deliver stage 1 and 2 parts. Now the real work begins.


Went ahead and moved the work table to the garage for convenience. Ended up doing a bit more wiring on the bench.


Threw in a cheapo Summit seat the roommate had laying around (car guy problems) just to get a seating position feel, and to sit in while I work. Started getting some things installed to be able to run wires to their destinations.


At this point, I was too eager to dive in, so I haven't really gotten all of the parts out and thoroughly looked at everything, but I have noticed a few things that seem to be missing. Lonny mentioned when he dropped everything off that there was still one steering piece that was not done, so it would be mailed to me (I think it's the tube that connects everything). I also wasn't able to find the brake tees in the boxes of hardware, but I haven't looked in the brake caliper boxes or anything. It would be really helpful to have an inventory document/sheet that lists all the parts for each stage (and maybe what they go with), does such a document exist?
Adam has a stage 1 document he should be able to email. My brake Ts were in a box with rivets and misc hardware.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Did a little more thorough digging yesterday, definitely didn't see the brake tees. Also not seeing the brake reservoir relocation... thing. The one that the reservoir mounts to, at least - I have the piece that goes in place of it on the master, as well as the brass fittings. I also don't seem to have any of the machined pieces that mount to the front uprights for attaching steering, a-arms, etc.

Most of this stuff isn't super urgent, as I still have plenty to do without it, but the brake tees and steering tube would be nice to have so I can get lines/wires in their places and get the frame prepped for coating. As I mentioned, Lonny told me that the steering tube (and the correct set of rivets - the ones I got have small heads) would need to be shipped to me, so I'm not worried.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Did a little more thorough digging yesterday, definitely didn't see the brake tees. Also not seeing the brake reservoir relocation... thing. The one that the reservoir mounts to, at least - I have the piece that goes in place of it on the master, as well as the brass fittings. I also don't seem to have any of the machined pieces that mount to the front uprights for attaching steering, a-arms, etc.

Most of this stuff isn't super urgent, as I still have plenty to do without it, but the brake tees and steering tube would be nice to have so I can get lines/wires in their places and get the frame prepped for coating. As I mentioned, Lonny told me that the steering tube (and the correct set of rivets - the ones I got have small heads) would need to be shipped to me, so I'm not worried.
Everything you mentioned except the brake T's are second stage parts so it might be a little while before those are ready.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Everything you mentioned except the brake T's are second stage parts so it might be a little while before those are ready.
I know, I received both stages at once though. Control arms, brakes, joints/tie rods, etc were all present.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I know, I received both stages at once though. Control arms, brakes, joints/tie rods, etc were all present.
Ohh yeah then you'll need those....focus on just what's needed for powder coating first because once the frames done you'll have lots to do just getting the engine to where it runs. Smaller stuff like the steering collumn can be taken later if you're trying to coat that too. Are you going to coat the actual knuckles that connect between the A arms?
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Ohh yeah then you'll need those....focus on just what's needed for powder coating first because once the frames done you'll have lots to do just getting the engine to where it runs. Smaller stuff like the steering collumn can be taken later if you're trying to coat that too. Are you going to coat the actual knuckles that connect between the A arms?
I haven't decided, but if I do, they will probably be black, which will be separate from the frame anyway. I'm lucky in that my boss also owns a powder coat shop (with a big enough oven to do an entire car frame), so I am able to do plenty of small parts for free in a "throw it in while you're doing other stuff" kinda deal. Unfortunately, they mostly do simple ag stuff, and aren't confident on doing the Illusion colors (2-stage), so I'll take that to another local shop, but all the stuff I plan on having black can be done anytime.

Regardless, I should be able to estimate the positions of things like the turn signal switch and brake reservoir for wiring purposes, and mock the brake lines in with some tape or something substituting for the tees.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Final seats came in, I went with Braum Venom series, as they're specifically designed for tall people, and are very low profile as seen here. The strap slots sit right at my shoulders as they should, so that's good, and they're quite comfortable (and recline). They come with universal slider rails, so I'll weld in some extra mounting rails for them in the frame.


Starting to run the dash wiring. Since I'm a masochist, I'm doing this in the car to eliminate clumps of folded over wire and tangles. I plan on keeping the dash-body connector, so I labeled all the wires near the connector on this harness and cut them off to make routing/extending easier. You can see a few of them laying in the tunnel here.


This mess bugs the hell out of me, so I'll be shortening all the wires to the same length as the gray ones in the middle. This will keep the harness nice and neat.


Question at this point - I think I have the clutch/brake position plugs correct (brown/yellow/white for brake, tan/green/gray for clutch). Regardless, the gray wire on the clutch(?) pedal goes to the multiplug, where its mate on the body harness has been cut off... did I mess up something or is that wire not needed? I can't imagine that I would have cut it if I knew it went to the clutch, but I've done dumber things before...
 
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Tony

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Question at this point - I think I have the clutch/brake position plugs correct (brown/yellow/white for brake, tan/green/gray for clutch). Regardless, the gray wire on the clutch(?) pedal goes to the multiplug, where its mate on the body harness has been cut off... did I mess up something or is that wire not needed? I can't imagine that I would have cut it if I knew it went to the clutch, but I've done dumber things before...
Update: Looked through the manual that Dan uploaded (huge thanks Dan), it appears I'm wicked dumb. That gray wire is a 5V reference and goes to pin 14 on ECM X2. I haven't the foggiest idea why I would have cut it out, unless it went through something else that I deemed unnecessary. I'll keep searching, but hopefully I didn't cut the wire too short to repair (spoiler alert: I probably did).
 
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