Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

Tony

Well-Known Member
I wasn't sure where the orange wire gets its power. That schematic doesn't show. Think it's acc.
It is logic level power from the BCM. It's not directly connected to the ignition switch. The BCM receives power from the ignition switch at each position, so the logic controller knows what position it is in, and will power the switch circuit accordingly. Only way to know is to read the BCM programming, or test on a donor/with a multimeter.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Got some Solstice brake lines installed. I had to unbend the caliper end slightly, as the angle caused it to run into the parking brake portion. I was as careful as I could be, but I'll be keeping a close eye on them while I bleed the brakes. FWIW, not fond of the red, but they were considerably cheaper than the plain silver ones. Oh well.


Also got my shifter linkages installed and adjusted finally. As I mentioned before, the heim joint for the side-to-side linkage didn't fit over the stub, so I did my best to file it down. Unfortunately, after about half an hour, it still wouldn't go on properly. I got it pressed to the point where the end of the stub was flush with the outside of the heim joint, and it is definitely not coming off. So, no e-clip, but I'm calling it good.


I'm still having trouble with the parking brake cable routing. The kit came with some hardware and coated clamps, but I don't know what they're all used for. Does anyone have pictures of the cable routing, tube mounting, and handle mounting?
 

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
I'm getting ready to install the shifter/cables and the e brake. I'm also curious how the e brake handle gets mounted to the tunnel cap. Are we supposed to use self taping screws to mount it? Also how do the shifter cables pass around the e brake handle?
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I'm getting ready to install the shifter/cables and the e brake. I'm also curious how the e brake handle gets mounted to the tunnel cap. Are we supposed to use self taping screws to mount it? Also how do the shifter cables pass around the e brake handle?
I think the holes in the base of the handle are too big for self-tappers, unless you use a big washer. I'm going to see about finding a couple different sized spacers to raise it off the tunnel cap just enough to let the shift cables pass under it. The kit came with six 1/4" thick spacers, but I'm not sure how they're supposed to be arranged. Having two long bolts and three short is also puzzling me.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
I think the holes in the base of the handle are too big for self-tappers, unless you use a big washer. I'm going to see about finding a couple different sized spacers to raise it off the tunnel cap just enough to let the shift cables pass under it. The kit came with six 1/4" thick spacers, but I'm not sure how they're supposed to be arranged. Having two long bolts and three short is also puzzling me.
I had this one photo. Looks like the spacers prop up the front of the handle bracket. This was taken in the early stages of development. As you can see, it only has one screw holding it to the tunnel cap.
Screenshot_20190514-113319_Gallery.jpg

And then the shifter cables go.....? On top and around? No clue
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Did some experimenting with spacers on the parking brake handle, and I think I've got it figured out. I highlighted where I trimmed to fit the width of the tunnel cap.


I'm using a 1" spacer in the front. I've got a coupling nut, just because that's what the local Menard's had. Honestly, now that I've messed with it, a 5/16" or M8 bolt would fit better through the holes. You can kind of see in the last image that the washer is barely bigger than a couple of the holes. Either way, the lengths of the spacers should stay consistent. No pictures in the car yet - I took it into the paint booth after this picture.


I also finished replacing the cheap flexible strip lights with a little nicer looking ones for the center stop light and license plate light.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
How about the heighth of the e brake cables. Do they hit the fuel tank rail? I know this area is kinda tight.
I'll have to report back to you on that. I don't recall it being overly tight when I was test fitting without spacers, but not sure.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I'm having a little trouble with seatbelt mounting. I think the reel is pretty simple, I found a donor m12 bolt that I'm pretty sure was for seatbelts anyway.


Based on the hole size in the side of the tunnel, I used m10 bolts to mount the center buckle.


The lower anchor seems to be sized for an m14, which I found a bag of (6 or 8 maybe) in the remainder of the kit hardware, but didn't find any nuts for. Not sure if that's what they were intended for or not... As I've said, the "intended purpose" of all the bags of kit hardware has been long forgotten.


The top is probably the most confusing. I'm guessing it originally was mounted with a shoulder bolt, allowing it to pivot, but not sure how it's intended to go here. I've got it mounted with a gr10.9 M10 at the moment, but M12 does fit through the mounting tube. Again though, I didn't find anything in the kit hardware.


I know almost everyone is using aftermarket harnesses, but my seats don't have a slot, and I don't want to use a 4 point for safety reasons.
 

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
I'm having a little trouble with seatbelt mounting. I think the reel is pretty simple, I found a donor m12 bolt that I'm pretty sure was for seatbelts anyway.


Based on the hole size in the side of the tunnel, I used m10 bolts to mount the center buckle.


The lower anchor seems to be sized for an m14, which I found a bag of (6 or 8 maybe) in the remainder of the kit hardware, but didn't find any nuts for. Not sure if that's what they were intended for or not... As I've said, the "intended purpose" of all the bags of kit hardware has been long forgotten.


The top is probably the most confusing. I'm guessing it originally was mounted with a shoulder bolt, allowing it to pivot, but not sure how it's intended to go here. I've got it mounted with a gr10.9 M10 at the moment, but M12 does fit through the mounting tube. Again though, I didn't find anything in the kit hardware.


I know almost everyone is using aftermarket harnesses, but my seats don't have a slot, and I don't want to use a 4 point for safety reasons.
The kit does not come with hardware for seat belts. I used 1/2" bolts for the shoulder, they fit the tube real nice. I bought 3 1/2" long bolts and then had to cut them shorter for the factory plastic cover to fit. I then used self locking nuts so I could leave them a little loose so they could rotate freely. I used 1/2" X 1 1/4" bolts on the lower outside mounts as well with a self locking nut to allow them to rotate. Are you using stock seats, or aftermarket? My inside lower attach point was built into the original cobalt seat.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The kit doesn't include seat belt bolts. The top bolt, I used an extra nut and lock washer, so the shoulder strap could move easily.
This is the mock up I did, but now it has new bolts, and less washers.
8748
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tips. I figured my kit didn't come with any, but wasn't sure if that was still the case with newer kits. I made a (pricey) stop at Fastenal and got some shoulder bolts to use for the lower mounts, which I think work very nicely. I also got some 1/2" x 4" bolts for the uppers, hoping the extra length would give me room to use a double jam nut to leave room to pivot. Unfortunately, the threads weren't long enough, so I'll have to get a 3.5" (or 3.75" if I can find one). The shoulder bolts are 5/8" diameter (1/2"-13 thread) x 3/4" long. I would have gone shorter if they had any, but I think it still works great. I had to open up the holes in the belt tabs very slightly with a diamond die grinder, but not enough to impact the safety.

 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Nice! Now I need to make a trip to Fastenal, as I didn't know they sold those. Best of all, I learned that they are called "shoulder" bolts.
My donor seats connected the latch to the seat, and I didn't need to rebolt them to the center tunnel.

You confused me... when the 1/2 x 4" bolt wasn't long enough threads, you want to replace with 3.75"? That's shorter, not longer.
 
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