Track Day Monster 2009 SS/TC Track Frame

dperkins

Well-Known Member
Looking great so far. Did you get a dyno of the engine?
Not mine personally but Ryan at ZZP sent a vid with my exact setup, minus the forged rods and pistons. Made something around 430 wheel, can't remember the exact number. I'll post the vid if I can find it again.
 

redline

Well-Known Member
It would have to have rods and pistons to last. they give out first. if he made 430 without them it wasn't for long.
 

dperkins

Well-Known Member
Ryan told me that up to the low 400 whp the pistons and rods are usually ok. He told me just to be safe I should do an upgrade, so I went for it. I doubt I will ever get to use the full 400+ whp to be honest, but it was a good learning experience for me.
 

dperkins

Well-Known Member
Did you paint or powder coat the valve cover?
I used some high heat engine paint from OReillys. It’s an ok paint, but some of it is chipping already. I should have put a good clear coat over it and that would have fixed my issues.
 

dperkins

Well-Known Member
Major milestone reached :). Took drew and I about 30 minutes to get it all lined up correct. Pretty sure I used the right mounting holes.
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Next step is completing the cooling and connecting the fuse box and wires and other various lines, then it's first start time!!
 

redline

Well-Known Member
I too am doing the Turbo version. It looks like there is not enough room between the turbo inlet and that frame bar. Is that just an illusion??
 

dperkins

Well-Known Member
The inlet is fine. The outlet has a very small amount of space between it and the support bar. I think I'll be ok and be able to fit a 30 degree silicone bend on it to attach to the intercooler.
 

dperkins

Well-Known Member
Can I see someone's thermostat to oil cooler to main tubing setup please? I think this new block came with a different part on it than stock and I just want to confirm my suspicions.
 
I did not. Thought it would be ok without changing it, would it not?
Depends on how close the bob weight (piston,rings,pin,locks, and small end of connecting rod) is to the factory weight. I've only seen it within 2-3% twice in over 1000 engines where it wasn't a factory replacement piston which typically is very close to original spec. Take you complete factory piston rod combo and one new piston rod combo to a good machine shop and they should be able to work up a bob weight for each and see if it needs to be balanced. My guess is its lighter than stock and needs a balance.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Unless he’s running a tune to frequently spin a higher rpm and power band, would a balance really matter in the grand sceme of things?
 

George

Goblin Guru
Balance is always important for max performance and longjivity. The 4 cylinder engine is a flat crank, all through in the same plane so it does not requirk bob weights when balancing.

Brad
 
Balance is always important for max performance and longjivity. The 4 cylinder engine is a flat crank, all through in the same plane so it does not requirk bob weights when balancing.

Brad
Generally this is true until you dramatically change the weight of components. Inline 4 cylinder engines usually don't suffer from inbalance at the top or bottom of the stroke but the places in between....that's the part as engine machinists we like to clean up. Even opposed engines (boxxer engines and the like) benefit from being balanced but that's usually for very high rpm operation and it's more a game of predicting the inertial moment.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
You do not use Bob weight calculations or Bob weights while balancing four cylinder engines.

When balancing a four cylinder crank you first balance the crank by itself.

Then you bolt the flywheel on the crank and balance that as an assembly and only drill the flywheel to correct any unbalance.

Then you bolt the pressure plate on the flywheel and balance the pressure plate by drilling, grinding or welding wieghts around it.

You need to make sure your Pistons are all within a gram or so of each other.

For the rods you need to use a jig that supports the wrist pin end of the rod while the big end is on a gram scale to make sure the big ends all weigh the same by removing weight from the heaviest rods to make them match the lightest big end. Once you get all of the big ends the same weight you can weight the whole rod and grind on the little ends of the heavier rods until they all weigh the same.

When balancing an engine that is 90 degrees such as a V8 you have to use a percentage of the Piston, rod big end, rod wrist pin end, bearings, wrist pin, wrist pin clips, rings and a little for oil under the Piston.

From these measurements you load up Bob weights to the calculated weight and bolt them to the crank rod journals. Some V8 cranks also have external weights on the flywheel and balancer that will need to be in place while balancing the crank.

With a V8 if you change the wieght of any of the rotating or reciprocating components it changes the Bob weight so you have to rebalance the crank.
 
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