Brian74
Goblin Guru
The core is 4 1/4. Its a little over 6” with the fan. Will need to move the fuel tank to the right about 2”. Will be welding tabs and mounting it right in front of the fuse box.
Turbo Goblin Intercooling and IAT2 Temps
- Thread starter Brian74
- Start date
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Went for a 250+ mile cruise yesterday. It was a really nice day with temps around 80 degrees. Even with my new heat exchanger I still watch the IAT2 temps like a hawk. One of the things I noticed in the latter part if the trip is that they were slowly creeping up to around 100 degrees and staying right around there even at cruise. They creeped the entire trip.
My first thought was did I just waste a lot of money on a new heat exchanger? Was the stock setup just fine? To answer those questions I flipped my AeroForce gauge over to the MAF IAT temp. Much to my surprise the the temps matched to within a few degrees. Both were reading about 100 degrees.
I was really confused about this at first. Once I started thinking about it, the only thing I can come up with is the intake location. It seems to be in a stagnant airspace right next to a hot engine and the intake just sucks up all the heated air. In addition, the MAF tube absorbs radiant heat too further contributing to increased temps. It's more of a HAI.
Is this a valid theory? I'm not sure what can be done other than relocating the intake.
My first thought was did I just waste a lot of money on a new heat exchanger? Was the stock setup just fine? To answer those questions I flipped my AeroForce gauge over to the MAF IAT temp. Much to my surprise the the temps matched to within a few degrees. Both were reading about 100 degrees.
I was really confused about this at first. Once I started thinking about it, the only thing I can come up with is the intake location. It seems to be in a stagnant airspace right next to a hot engine and the intake just sucks up all the heated air. In addition, the MAF tube absorbs radiant heat too further contributing to increased temps. It's more of a HAI.
Is this a valid theory? I'm not sure what can be done other than relocating the intake.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Sure seems odd that you are sucking in 100 degree air. I'm not sure where your intake is at, ours is behind our head and should get enough ambient air. Even with radiant heat, you would think that enough air in through the intake would cool off the intake plumbing over time. Does seem odd for sure.Went for a 250+ mile cruise yesterday. It was a really nice day with temps around 80 degrees. Even with my new heat exchanger I still watch the IAT2 temps like a hawk. One of the things I noticed in the latter part if the trip is that they were slowly creeping up to around 100 degrees and staying right around there even at cruise. They creeped the entire trip.
My first thought was did I just waste a lot of money on a new heat exchanger? Was the stock setup just fine? To answer those questions I flipped my AeroForce gauge over to the MAF IAT temp. Much to my surprise the the temps matched to within a few degrees. Both were reading about 100 degrees.
I was really confused about this at first. Once I started thinking about it, the only thing I can come up with is the intake location. It seems to be in a stagnant airspace right next to a hot engine and the intake just sucks up all the heated air. In addition, the MAF tube absorbs radiant heat too further contributing to increased temps. It's more of a HAI.
Is this a valid theory? I'm not sure what can be done other than relocating the intake.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
It sits between the firewall and engine. In the same area as the fuel filler neck hose. It's below the level of the firewall.
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
Anybody thought about doing this?
It's an acquired taste. You would have to get the sensor plate welded onto this piece, but it would put the air filter out in clean cool air. You could use one of the shock tower mounting bolts to secure it with a clamp. Would it have a negative effect on the sensor readings?
It's an acquired taste. You would have to get the sensor plate welded onto this piece, but it would put the air filter out in clean cool air. You could use one of the shock tower mounting bolts to secure it with a clamp. Would it have a negative effect on the sensor readings?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
I've been contemplating where the intake should go on the TC and your positioning is close to what I am thinking. I will try running the piping on the inside of the frame rails - will be a tighter 90 degree into the turbo inlet - and still route the piping in the vertical to get the intake filter up into the cooler air as you have done. This routing is shorter piping and gets the intake away from the stock location where there is too much hot air circulating in front of the engine. I like it.
JeffsGoblin
Goblin Guru
Intake stack! I like it. Any issue if you get caught in a rain storm?
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
The other benefit of relocating it--and this is a big one for me--is reducing the sucking sound. It's very loud and annoying in the stock position. Even with ear plugs it still drives me crazy.
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
I have not started mine yet, but I have seen posts about how loud it is. That was another reason why I thought about the rear position. But it is only another 18" or so back.
Tim Moland
Well-Known Member
This was my biggest concern. Although if you get caught in the rain with the other set up, it too would suck up water that went into the filter(especially sitting at a red light). The rear position would be a funnel and channel the water directly into the turbo. It would be more exposed to water when driving as opposed to when your stopped(due to the plastic top of the filter). I guess the question is, how much does the higher IAT's effect the performance? Is it even noticeable? Are we mostly concerned with heat soak?
Lethalcast
Well-Known Member
I ran mine yesterday and I was pulling 96-98 with 86-88 ambient. I also did a few hard pulls to around 130 and hit 162 on iat2. Cruising at 75-80 I was at 129-131 iat2 and 96°. I was thinking about extending the pipe with an elbow and running it so it's behind the driver side. At least that would be the colder side of that area. I also thought about a side scoop that would catch air and force it to the filters location. If anything it would at least flush that hot air out of that area. Haven't quite found anything yet except maybe an intake that comes off different types of Buell motorcycles.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
There are several different types of intake wraps, that fit over the cone filters, that repel water but still allow sufficient airflow. These are mainly available from the offroad suppliers and will help prevent water ingestion with the intake up in the clean air.
Christopher Sanchez
Well-Known Member
Hoping to find what solutions others have done for our TCs heat soak issues..I am assuming that this setup works better with SC models. So from what I can gather is that IATs even with bigger heat exchangers that are moved from the original location seem to creep up with prolonged driving... with my DF exchanger in original location I am seeing 40 degrees above ambient under hwy driving and 70degrees above during hard boost and considering the exchanger is almost solely relying on the fan for airflow sustained high speeds does nothing to improve heat exchange.. I would really love to hear from someone with the NACA duct assembly from DF about IATs.. I do not race the car I just want better than 150 degree IAT in 75-80 degree weather! Haha moving the air filter somewhere that gets circulated air would probably help a great deal and also figuring out how to get more air flow to the engine.. I’ve noticed some people trim their wind screen idk if it’s solely for aesthetics or to attempt to get the air moving around the engine.. I’ve pondered about whether NACA ducts in our side sheet metal panels plumbed with rubber hose routed through or firewall behind the seats would facilitate enough airflow to solve the dead air problem. I have also heard of setting up a spray nozzle to cool the exchanger however I have this on a Subaru STI and I have yet to see it decrease IAT a single degree in any situation.. I will begin to work on possible fixes and also post the results in the hopefully near future.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
Not sure if you saw Russel's upgraded fans. Post #35
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/rttoys’s-track-‘06-ss-sc-184.1667/page-2
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/rttoys’s-track-‘06-ss-sc-184.1667/page-2
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
I think I am the first builder to install the DF heat exchanger fan WITH the DF naca ducts. Unfortunately, I do not have much temp data to share yet.
Even when not moving and getting any forced air flow into the ducts, the fan will at least be pulling cooler outside air and pushing it through the heat exchanger instead of the warmed air behind the radiator.
see post #169
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/jason-in-texas-ext-track-09-ss-tc.1531/page-9
Indy Lonnie
Well-Known Member
I have had the NACA duct kit installed for a year now. I do not run the fan because I was told I didn't need it, and I don't... My IAT2 temps are always within 15 degrees of my IAT1. I have recently installed a "cold air intake", pulling cold air from the side of my goblin (see it here). My IATs are with 12-13 degrees of each other. After a hard run, my IAT2 will come back down in under a minute...
RouteAbel
Well-Known Member
I plan to follow your lead with the naca ducts and fan. Does the fan naturally blow or suck? Is it just a matter of reversing wiring?
Indy Lonnie
Well-Known Member
One thing to consider, how are you going to mount the fan inside the NACA duct shroud? It may be difficult. There is not a lot of wiggle room. Installing it underneath will greatly reduce your ground clearance. I do not have the fan and am happy with my cooling.