Various questions.. couldn't find answers in search

[taz_va]

Hey all, been lurking for a short while, only recently created an account. I've read a lot of threads here, and researched online.. looks like the Goblin is new new new, which is great. So I'm trying to plan everything out, and I've got some questions. I'm looking to build one of these in the near future, and register it in Virginia (VA), which itself is a hassle because the state removed the ability to register kit cars as streetable a short while back. A legislator is supposedly trying to fix that. With that said..

1. The brake/reverse/turn lights shown in the kit, are they DOT approved?
2. I saw there seemed to be an official "glass" windshield in the works.. will there be option for full height and half height? (ie, full height for full cage frame)
3. The glass mentioned above, will it still have the DOT/approved safety glass markings on it?
4. Will there be an option for coil-overs for the rear, as I see QA1's come with the kit up front?
5. Is there a consensus on lug setup (4v5)? Is there a technical reason to go with one over the other for the kit?
6. Can body panels be ordered after you've purchased your kit (ie, you've decided you want panels), or is it required they be ordered with the kit?

I've been doing car and bike stuff for years. This wouldn't be my first custom setup, I have worked with cars from the frame-up, buiding engines, etc, but it would be my first official "kit". Getting lazy over time, I wanted something simple to put together, something which would turn heads.. something out of the ordinary--and which is super easy to work on and could share a parkingspace with a motorcycle. The Goblin really appeals to me.

If only the company needed to hire some extra hands down there

 

[k.rollin]

Q4: I would assume that any coilover strut that is compatible with the front end of a Cobalt would work for the rear of the Goblin, provided that the springs are replaced with lower rate units, as the Goblin is much lighter than the Cobalt. That said, a rear coilover kit that uses BC Racing struts was posted about previously. See here.

 

[TheNuker]

1: The mirrors do have a DOT in the clear plastic case of them and the tail lights do appear to be DOT also judging from the jeep guys using them.
4: Adam and Lonny have custom coil overs in the works, I think there is a couple cars running them. One was on a video on Youtube.
5: personally on my SS/SC I switched from 5 lug to 4 lug because there was many more lightweight racing wheels available.

That's all the answers I have.
Nuker-

 

[Goblin-SS]

1: The mirrors do have a DOT in the clear plastic case of them and the tail lights do appear to be DOT also judging from the jeep guys using them.
4: Adam and Lonny have custom coil overs in the works, I think there is a couple cars running them. One was on a video on Youtube.
5: personally on my SS/SC I switched from 5 lug to 4 lug because there was many more lightweight racing wheels available.

That's all the answers I have.
Nuker-

Nuker did the splines in the wheel hub for the 4 bolt work with the SS axel or did you have to do some trickery to get it to work ?

 

[Silverback]

Lifted from www.cobaltss.net/forums/drivetrain-79/lsj-vs-lnf-axles-293002/ :

"...these are just my measurements. but I'd still say its +/- 0.5mm...both axles are:

27 spline count
30mm diameter at the splines
35mm diameter at the lip before the case
...
Now the differences.
The LSJ axle has a main shaft diameter of just 25mm. (measuring a DSS axle, oem is still the same i believe)
The LNF axle has a main shaft diameter of 34mm.
The LSJ hub spline count is 33, with a shaft diameter of 26.5mm
The LNF hub spline count is 30, with a shaft diameter of 32mm...
...
This however does not fit: LSJ axle in an LNF hub
...
Can you run LNF axles in an LSJ though? Yes you can. You can do it with or without ABS as well. For me i didn't care about abs and just did a straight swap of LNF control arms, hubs, knuckles, and axles. In order to maintain ABS you will need to run either the GMPP wheel hop kit, which utilizes a combination of both cars i believe. Or run the Powell Race Parts swap and have everything custom machined. But as far as a direct swap goes, no it's not going to happen."​

 

[Karter2026]

Hey all, been lurking for a short while, only recently created an account. I've read a lot of threads here, and researched online.. looks like the Goblin is new new new, which is great. So I'm trying to plan everything out, and I've got some questions. I'm looking to build one of these in the near future, and register it in Virginia (VA), which itself is a hassle because the state removed the ability to register kit cars as streetable a short while back. A legislator is supposedly trying to fix that. With that said..

1. The brake/reverse/turn lights shown in the kit, are they DOT approved?
2. I saw there seemed to be an official "glass" windshield in the works.. will there be option for full height and half height? (ie, full height for full cage frame)
3. The glass mentioned above, will it still have the DOT/approved safety glass markings on it?
4. Will there be an option for coil-overs for the rear, as I see QA1's come with the kit up front?
5. Is there a consensus on lug setup (4v5)? Is there a technical reason to go with one over the other for the kit?
6. Can body panels be ordered after you've purchased your kit (ie, you've decided you want panels), or is it required they be ordered with the kit?

I've been doing car and bike stuff for years. This wouldn't be my first custom setup, I have worked with cars from the frame-up, buiding engines, etc, but it would be my first official "kit". Getting lazy over time, I wanted something simple to put together, something which would turn heads.. something out of the ordinary--and which is super easy to work on and could share a parkingspace with a motorcycle. The Goblin really appeals to me.

If only the company needed to hire some extra hands down there

I too am trying to figure out if I can get this titled and inspected in here in PA. I beleive I can do it as a streetrod title. I am going to take a bunch of pictures and information to the local enhanced inspection station and pick his brain before I go and order a car I cant drive anywhere.

 

[Johvans]

Nuker did the splines in the wheel hub for the 4 bolt work with the SS axel or did you have to do some trickery to get it to work ?

The LSJ axles slide right in to the 4 lug hubs. The spline count is the same.

The LNF axles are quite a bit larger and don't work.

John

 

[taz_va]

Thanks for the responses so far. Yeah, the lug question was primarily due to the availability of wheel options, as there's a much better selection for 4 lug, but I'm likely going to have a LNF donor. Finding a 5 lug lightweight wheel isn't so bad, but finding one I like is lol.

This community sure is small, and I kindof like that. I hope it's able to grow, this seems like a great kit.

 

[TheNuker]

This community has grown a ton in the last 6 months, It used to be every few days a new post. Now it's several times a day in multi threads!

I'm loving how the power comes in on this SS/SC. I think I'm going to stick SC and go for the TVS 1300 to make around 300hp. It just feels right.

Nuker-

 

[taz_va]

Yeah, good SC choice. Historically, I only ever go positive displacement on my personal builds. For this project I'm going to go TC just for something totally different. I found a donor which I may be picking up soon, which I may Uber-moonlight in until I buy the Goblin kit lol.

 

[Johvans]

This community has grown a ton in the last 6 months, It used to be every few days a new post. Now it's several times a day in multi threads!

I'm loving how the power comes in on this SS/SC. I think I'm going to stick SC and go for the TVS 1300 to make around 300hp. It just feels right.

Nuker-

Please let us know what you think. I've been keeping my eyes out for a TVS as well!
John

 

[Goblin-SS]

The LSJ axles slide right in to the 4 lug hubs. The spline count is the same.

The LNF axles are quite a bit larger and don't work.

John

That may be the best news ever! My build us an LSJ. Adam redrilled my hubs to the 5x114.3 but even then the wheel choice are low and expansive.

 

[taz_va]

That may be the best news ever! My build us an LSJ. Adam redrilled my hubs to the 5x114.3 but even then the wheel choice are low and expansive.

Yeah, I can't recall ever running into an issue with a car build where wheel choices were limited.. lol, so that was new. I finally narrowed it down to a couple of Konigs. Probably going to go 16x7.5, running 225/45 Proxes R1R, at least at first.

 

[Silverback]

The problem with 16" wheels is the limited selection of wide performance tires and wheels. The 16" size seems to be going out of favor with manufacturers. 15" seems to have more staying power with all of the Miata enthusiasts out there and should be available further into the future. Selecting 17" wheels - at least for the rear - opens up a relatively large selection of suitable wheels and tires - from mild to wild - and won't disappear soon.

 

[taz_va]

I do agree. Luckily we can easily get new wheels if we want to change that For myself, it's going to more of a street than track setup, which is why I went that way for the moment.

 

[JSATX]

The problem with 16" wheels is the limited selection of wide performance tires and wheels. The 16" size seems to be going out of favor with manufacturers. 15" seems to have more staying power with all of the Miata enthusiasts out there and should be available further into the future. Selecting 17" wheels - at least for the rear - opens up a relatively large selection of suitable wheels and tires - from mild to wild - and won't disappear soon.

I'm really happy with my 15" front and 17" back.

 

[TheNuker]

I'm really happy with my 15" front and 17" back.

Me too, The stance looks nice!

Nuker-

 

[Briann1177]

I have a CV boot that is leaking grease so I'm going to replace both axles while everything is pulled out. Dumb question. I think I used a 35 mm socket to remove the existing nuts. Looking at replacements on O'reilly's or Autozones website, the nut sizes are different. Some are 30 mm and some are 36 mm. The websites say it will fit, but I don't get how.

Also, based on what Silverback posted above, the spline counts are different so that's another thing I'm not sure about.

Do I need to go with OEM axles?

 

[TheNuker]

I have a CV boot that is leaking grease so I'm going to replace both axles while everything is pulled out. Dumb question. I think I used a 35 mm socket to remove the existing nuts. Looking at replacements on O'reilly's or Autozones website, the nut sizes are different. Some are 30 mm and some are 36 mm. The websites say it will fit, but I don't get how.

Also, based on what Silverback posted above, the spline counts are different so that's another thing I'm not sure about.

Do I need to go with OEM axles?

If you have an SS/SC Donor I would suggest the ZZP stage 1 axles. They are working really great and are a bit stronger than the stock ones.

Nuker-

 

[Briann1177]

I've got a TC donor. Looks like ZZ Performance doesn't have them.