Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ross

Goblin Guru
Index of notable pages and posts:
another way to search, go to google and type: site:dfkitcar.com "first start"
DF Kit Car Store
Map of Goblin builders.
New *Official Builders Thread* -- Where are you located?
Adam's pictures of: Heat Exchanger, Front Suspension Rod End Mounts, Front Bearing Hub Inner Cap Installation, Brake Reservoir Relocation Late Model, Windscreen, Steering Column Installation, Manual Shifter Connections, Parking Brake, Turbo Charge Pipes, Intercooler and Intake, Turbo Vacuum Lines, Intercooler Water Pump and Plumbing, Rear Coilover Installation
Bosch Intercooler Pump fix. Video here. Intercooler plumbing here.
Tesla Goblin? Video 1 of 4.
Transmission cable issues. Video here.
Kept the Cobalt buttons and accessory plugs. Button Panel wiring diagrams with cruise control. Info and Return buttons for the Drivers Information Center.
Cutting down the hub bearing ABS caps.
Midwest Spring Meet 2019. Video here.
Midwest Spring Meet 2020.

Manuals and diagrams:
manual for your goblin donor. downloadable 7-zip or WinRaR
AllDataDIY Login
Color diagrams
AutoZone.com has repair guides. If you set up a free account, you can get electrical diagrams for your car.
Chilton Login
Automatic car wiring diagrams by BAR AIR.
My 2006 LSJ electrical harness videos here.
Stand Alone wiring harnesses: CBM motorsports (expensive but good reviews) and Swap Specialties (about half the cost but some sketchy reviews) or make your own, using the Bussmann Fuse Panel or a big fuse panel, and disabling VATS.
Wiring lables for your harness.
A 3.5 minute video of Lonny and Brenda making a harness.
Jmar1622 made some nice base model wire harness instructions
Main wiring harness map for DF Goblin with lengths. Need to blow up the picture a lot to see the lengths.

Engine tuning resources:
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/sc-tune-guide-1-hptuners-goblin-basic-settings.2628/
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/sc-tune-guide-2-hptuners-using-templates.2649/
https://www.redlineforums.com/threads/maf-ve-tuning.40891/
Guide to scaling a tune for big injectors.
LSJ tune for 60lb injectors and 2.8" pulley (Ghostknife)
LSJ tune for 82lb injectors, 3.1" pulley, cams, E85 fuel. (ncgoblin)
LSJ tune for 82lb injectors, z57 turbo, BRFS using the 515 EFI fuelab regulator, ZZP LSJ entry level turbo swap kit (r3drckt)
LSJ tune for 62lb split spray injectors, Borg Warner S257 turbo (lechliss)
LSJ tune for 60lb injectors, TVS supercharger, MAF only. (SACTX)
LSJ tune for 80lb injectors, ZFR 6758 turbo, BRFS, Stage 2 turbo cams, gfab2 electronic boost controller (ccannx)
LSJ tune for 80lb Siemens injectors E85, with ZZP Entry Level Turbo swap kit, K04 turbo (Sluggonaut)
LSJ tune for 42lb injectors, 3" pulley, GM Stage 2 tune. (Robinjo)
LSJ tune for 82lb (FIC 870CC Bosch split injectors), 2.7 pulley, ZZP Stage 2 supercharger cams (Keckster)
LNF tune with 3 bar map sensors (ATMironov)

My car build's highlights:
15 Picking up the donor (video), first time seeing a Goblin.
27 Link to Goblin Pictures video.
32 Link to What's included in a DF Kit Car video.
33 Link to Riding with Jermey video
69 My actual frame weight is 86.5 kilograms.
71 Link to Adjustable Steering video.
76 Painting the frame

Pg5
81 Wheels, tires, offsets, spacers. Here is some good tire choices... I choose treadwear 100 tires for the street as our Goblin is extremely light.
My opinion on tires for Goblin.
84 Parking brake handle
85 Heater hose loop and radiator overflow
89 Titling the Goblin in Arkansas
92 Insurance
102 MAF sensor plug
107 Epoxy fix for the fuel pump
109 First Start video
113 Engine power reduced/OBDII codes. The fix.
117 Eliminate evap solenoid (also 316)
119 First impressions driving my Goblin
133 Aligning the pedals
143 Fixing the brakes dragging issue. Brake caliper shimming to center it on the brake rotor.
145 DF new 200hp hair styler product demonstration
148 Lowering the clutch pedal by removing the cruise control switch. (needed for hood clearance)
166 Wheel alignment specifications for normal tires. This later spec is better for my larger tires. How to measure caster.
170 How much stuff can you carry in a Goblin?
172 Diagnosing a bad power steering motor
179 Purchase link for 13" wide fenders

Pg10
185 Mockup of custom fenders
186 Tow bar
187 - 189 Keeping the wideband O2 sensor from overheating.
192 Cobalt Seat mounting
194 - 202 Timing chain guide bolt replacement
206 First time autocross video. It shows the wheel hop issue, that gets resolved later.
209 Wheel hop issue 1: Worn wheel bearings
216 Wheel bearing part numbers, AEM wideband O2 air/fuel ratio gauge
217 Replace axle CV joint boot
218 DF heavy duty rod end mounts, DF 3D printed cap
221 Installing new wheel bearings. Front torque values. Other torque values here and here. F35 transmission torques here.
225 Finding Vacuum Leaks video
227 Changing springs to balance the Goblin
246 Fix brake reservoir bent nipple on clutch line
249 Brake booster vacuum regulator to control wheel lockup
255 Fix Cobalt seat belt retracting issue
257 Installing a Billet shifter video
261 Cobalt seat belt shoulder strap alignment
264 Cobalt seat rails modifications to fit Goblin
276 How fast is my Goblin? It ran 0-60 in 5.5 seconds before HP Tuners... and with vacuum leaks, and a broken MAP sensor.
277 HP Tuners setting my radiator fan temperatures

Pg15
288 Clutch slave T30 bolts were replaced with allen head cap bolts. Much better.
292 Lonny's secret to remove those T30 bolts. Worked!
298 Clutch inspection
300 Knock sensor, Oil pressure plug, Crankshaft position sensor on a LSJ.
302 Adding oil pressure sensor to a LSJ
311 If you remove the clutch slave, tranny oil can leak out.
312 Engine painting
313 AC Pump Delete video. How much weight saved?
316 Evap solenoid and supercharger boost bypass solenoid. How the boost bypass works.
325 The engine harness has interchangeable 8 pin purple connectors - don't mix them up! Swappable electrical connectors
326 Starter motor electrical connectors.
333 GM High Speed LAN wires on an LSJ
Taping the idiot lights on the dash / instrument cluster.
353 LSJ Starter relay
363 Progressive springs
364 Stiffening the front crumple zone radiator support.
376 Spark plugs and LSJ Compression numbers

Pg20
382 GM Low speed LAN wires.
394 Hitch receiver. 404 Painted. 413 & 423 Towing a Cobalt with a Goblin. 645 Towing a Seadoo
407 Stuck axle. 519 Video. Update: Lonny showed me how to push it in with a 3 foot long pry bar, until it clicks. Much better.
410 Axle tool.
426 Saab 9-3 turbo 486 intake tubes, intercooler
434 turbo ports
439 Depinning a BCM connector.
448 Oil pressure gauge on an LSJ. 478
468 TDGC (Two Donor Goblin Club)
475 Cheap button panel. It works.
479 Recovering seats, added seat heaters.

Pg 25
526 Brake proportioning valve
543 Brake hopping was an issue with my build. I tried a lot of things to fix it... and eventually won. 627
568 Need to shim my front A arms? Lonny didn't think it was needed... just spring the A arms a little... but I tried it before I had Lonny's knowledge.

Pg 30
585 Checking frame for straightness
595 strengthening the A arms. Turns out this isn't needed, but I was willing to try it.
606 Dale visits me, and gives me some expert help.
623 Trying new geometry on the front suspension, in order to bring the front tires in closer to the frame, and put the steering pivot point in the middle of the tire/road contact patch.
626 Corner weights of my Goblin.
627 Lonny found the problem. It is fixed! 633 The root cause.
638 Designing an angled, curved polycarbonate windshield. The completed prototype windshield.
645 Towing a Seadoo
648 Fuse box LSJ Goblin maps. I want to know what fuse is where, and be able to read it!
650 Making a clutch foot rest when you have side panels on a Goblin.
653 Wiring up an LSJ radiator fan to run hi/low speeds.
Modification for quicker steering.
How to post a video.
665 Making a radiator grill
674 Replacement radiator $75!
Checking the OBDII port for electrical issues.
F35 transmission tags, with a open diff, and with a G85 LSD.
A beginners guide to get HP Tuner's VCM Editor running, and able to download the tune off your car.
Brake caliper numbers.
Bump steer kit.

Pg 35
684 Muffler repair to stop air leaks.
708 Forged pistons, forged connecting rods. 805 stage 2 supercharged cams, head studs, valves, springs, titanium retainers.
724 Do 15" wheels clear the brake calipers? 15" wheel weight. 734 Tire weight for Hoosier A7s.
747 Tire pyrometer numbers.
762 2021 Autocross season in review.

Pg 40
788 Buying 5 point seat belts.
809 BCM memory chip notes. There are videos explaning how to change the odometer.
How to repurpose the A/C pressure sensor for an oil pressure gauge or O2 wideband.
810 Heat exchanger mounting on the roll bar.
814 Making a shop chair from a SS Cobalt seat. also here and finished pics here.
Adjusting the shifter cables for our H pattern. Transmission arms movements.
Installing the clip on the distribution block to hold the clutch line on.
The clutch bleeder is hard to get to, on a goblin, so a remote bleeder extension is a nice addition.
Jumping the fuel relay. One way to empty the donor fuel tank.
828 Added a shoulder bar for the 5 point seat belts.
837 Removing a muffler baffle.
Repurpose the AC circuit and program it in HP Tuners.
Learning the PCV system to accomodate a turbo on a LSJ.

My build log first post: ***********************************************************************
I have wanted an exo-car for a long time, and tried to justify an Ariel Atom when they were new to USA, but the price quickly grew out of my range.
Then the Goonzquad video introduced me to this kit. Luckly the DF Goblin survived.

My hope for an exo-car re-ignited, I started watching everything I can find on this kit! (YouTube needs more)
I arranged a 'factory tour' with Adam, on the first weekend in December, so I can see their shops and a real DF Goblin.
It is hard to know if I want an extended car or easy entry, since I have never entered or sat in a DF Goblin. (What does the DF stand for? Darn Fast? Doyle Fun?)

Yesterday I bought a donor car. So I guess the new project is officially started.

I have been looking/bidding for 3 weeks on Copart and IAAI auctions. The turbo cars are selling for more that I was expecting (I limited my biding to $3500 including all fees), and I haven't had much luck. Maybe I'm too picky. < 100K miles, within 800 miles of my home...

I have also been watching the supercharged Cobalts, when I came across a 'mystery' one nearby (5 hour drive) with very little information.
06 Cobalt SS, doesn't run, unknown mileage, and crunched in the front.
I thought it might go for cheap, as it is a gamble.
Even if the engine is toast, the rest of the Cobalt parts have a value right? (I'm justifying the gamble to myself)

I did a little research - VIN lookup on http://chevroletforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php revealed that it is a 2.0L supercharged LSJ. I prefer that over the 2.4L NA.
Copart even had an AutoCheck history report, which revealed that it was in an accident 6 months ago. So it has probably been sitting a while. (Still self-justifying a reason to bid). AutoCheck also says it was issued a duplicate title 6 weeks ago. So I look up the online form for duplicate titles, and there is a field for mileage... so I call the Missouri Department of Revenue, and explain that I'm doing some due-diligence on purchasing a car. They check the title document, and the mileage is filled in as ... 'Exempt'. Nice try, but I still don't know if it is worn out.

Inspecting the pictures, I think the front suspension and front frame clip wasn't impacted. Maybe the engine was hit. Airbags didn't deploy, rear is good.
So I waited for the car auction, bid once at $675, and then the Cobalt was sold. Only prebids, no counter bids during the online auction.

It's $985 after Copart fees, and i will pick up the car mid week, and start diagnosing on Thursday or Friday.
No idea if my gamble paid off... yet.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
DF=Doyel Fabrication.

Nice find! I'll bet the battery is dead or a fuse it blown and they can't read the ODO. Usually a car with a blown motor doesn't drive to get into an accident. It most likely was running when it was hit. But hopefully it didn't sustain damage to the engine in the impact. I doubt that it did, or at least very little. When you visit DF, check out the car they have in the back that is destroyed and Lonny found out it still runs!

In my opinion, get the extended frame. You will appreciate the extra room. I have the easy entry but to be honest, when I drove Lonny's car, I jumped in and out and didn't even notice it was not an easy entry. Once you get in an out a couple of times, it's not even an issue anymore. And the extra bar alongside of you is comforting. If I had to do it a third time, I would probably just go with extended and no easy entry.

I'm glad to hear the Goon video actually helped promote the Goblin to someone. The comments of the followers were harsh, I guess they like to live vicariously through the goons.

I can't wait to see you find out what is wrong and get it running. That's the first thing to do, get it started before you tear it down. Then you can watch the build videos and start tearing it apart. That's the fun part, really.

Where are you located?
 
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redtank22

Member
I was watching this car on copart thinking it would be the perfect donor for a goblin. Glad to see its going to be used for one!
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
DF=Doyel Fabrication.

Nice find! I'll bet the battery is dead or a fuse it blown and they can't read the ODO. Usually a car with a blown motor doesn't drive to get into an accident. It most likely was running when it was hit. But hopefully it didn't sustain damage to the engine in the impact. I doubt that it did, or at least very little. When you visit DF, check out the car they have in the back that is destroyed and Lonny found out it still runs!

In my opinion, get the extended frame. You will appreciate the extra room. I have the easy entry but to be honest, when I drove Lonny's car, I jumped in and out and didn't even notice it was not an easy entry. Once you get in an out a couple of times, it's not even an issue anymore. And the extra bar alongside of you is comforting. If I had to do it a third time, I would probably just go with extended and no easy entry.

I'm glad to hear the Goon video actually helped promote the Goblin to someone. The comments of the followers were harsh, I guess they like to live vicariously through the goons.

I can't wait to see you find out what is wrong and get it running. That's the first thing to do, get it started before you tear it down. Then you can watch the build videos and start tearing it apart. That's the fun part, really.

Where are you located?
NW Arkansas, between Bentonville and Fayetteville. Doyle Fabrication, good to know. 1 vote for the extended frame. I kind of wish this was the standard frame, not sure of a need for a short version, other than pricing. Easy entry looks more like a go-cart, but at the expense of safety. I agree, getting it running first is a good idea. I have watched the build videos, great information, and it helped me decide on this kit, seeing it is well supported. I plan to make build videos myself.
 

JERMzSS

Well-Known Member
Congrats!! Look up "Reaction Motorsports Events" on YouTube and there's several videos on there with my Goblin in it.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Congrats!! Look up "Reaction Motorsports Events" on YouTube and there's several videos on there with my Goblin in it.
It looked like you were having a lot of fun! You want a visitor on my way to/from Doyle Fabrication, Texas in a two weeks?
 

JERMzSS

Well-Known Member
It looked like you were having a lot of fun! You want a visitor on my way to/from Doyle Fabrication, Texas in a two weeks?
Sure thing! 479-414-4264 is my number. Shoot me a text and you're more than welcome to come check it out. Lonny and Adam are awesome. You will have a great time talking with them.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Welcome Ross! I'll add another vote for the extended frame. Glad to see some more Goblin owners fairly close (I'm only about 90 mins north of you).
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Welcome Ross! I'll add another vote for the extended frame. Glad to see some more Goblin owners fairly close (I'm only about 90 mins north of you).
Tomorrow, my son and I are heading to pick up the donor car in St. Louis, Missouri. You interested in a quick visit? Ross. 479-640-9941
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
We picked up our 'mystery' donor car, and got a chance to see James M's DF Goblin build.
 
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ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the video! That was very interesting to see someone else's Goblin and to see your donor. I about leapt out of my chair when the car started! My understanding is that you didn't know if it started and run or not, I could be wrong. The 196K is a bit high, but if it has had its oil changed and been taken care of, it will be fine. Plan to change the timing chain and gears now while the engine is out. Also, change the clutch. Make sure it has the new style chain tensioner otherwise change it out with the timing chain. A few things you should do before you install it in the Goblin.

Keep the boost gauge and wiring.

I wouldn't be too concern about the engine being pushed back. Hopefully the intake is still in good shape. The reservoir for the heat exchanger isn't needed, so use it, I didn't. You can buy a new motor mount on eBay or online GM parts stores, I had to and it wasn't expensive.

It's a good donor for the Goblin. Those SC motors are harder to come by and hate to see one crushed when it can be used again. And for what you a paid for it, you did very well!
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
My donor had 180,000 miles on it. I had the head off because the chain jumped a tooth or two and I wanted to make sure there was no internal damage. I was impressed with the condition of the cylinder. I agree with Chad on the timing chain, I would also do a water pump. So much easier when it is apart. Also label every wire and plug during teardown. You may feel like it is overkill yu will be happy you did it.
20170821_172958.jpg
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
ctuinstra
You are right, our donor was not running. I did try the starter about 10 times, with no luck. The car wasn't getting enough amperage, and I was hoping that the old battery would still hold some charge, but no. After adjusting the jumper cable a bunch of times, I was able to get the music thumping, and test the electrical circuits in the donor. Then I remembered that new cars have a safety switch on the clutch, so I pressed the clutch and bumped the starter. To my surprise, the starter motor cranked. To my horror, it didn't stop cranking when I turned the switch off. The car's computer took over and cranked the starter until it started, then reved up, then finally shut off. I didn't catch that start on video, along with the other attempted starts... but it did give me a heart attack... 6 month old gas, unknown oil level, no water in the engine jacket. Turns out the oil was fine, and no water jacket is not a problem for a quick start.
Thanks for the pointers on getting the donor ready.

IDRVSLO
Glad you enjoyed, there will be more videos!

Karter2026
Some more good points. Thanks. As I dig into the rebuild, I will be checking for wear. I am surprised that the build videos didn't label all the wiring, but I agree!
 
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