Push Button Start System

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Actually never mind I think I see it. You have wire 5 connected to wire 6 directly until the start button is depressed, changing the resistance of wire 6 and starting it. I think.
Correct. The WH/BK (6) is a 5v reference supplied to the BCM WH (5) while in the RUN mode. Then in order to command a start, the 5V is reduced down by the 1.5K ohm resistor. When the BCM sees this lower specific voltage, it will begin the START sequence. After the command is sent, the WH (5) will go back the RUN status.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
This is very helpful, thanks. I’m working on this now and it will be very basic. No key fob, just an ACC switch, IGN-run switch, and push button start.

I just don’t understand what your “run” relay is doing in the above schematic. Once I switch pins 4&5 to 12V it should be ready to start. Pin 30 of the “start” relay to pin 6 of the wiring plug should utilize your 1.5k resistor and run the starter. What am I missing?
Did you get it wired up successfully?
 

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Chad you still happy with the push button start? No issues with it? I was getting ready to purchase the kit and relay.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Chad you still happy with the push button start? No issues with it? I was getting ready to purchase the kit and relay.
Yes! Actually it’s been working very well. The only thing is that you have to either keep the keys out of range when the car is not in use or lock it. If the keys are just tossed in the seat, it will see it as being in range and activates the system and can drain the battery if the car sits for a long time.

Really like it, it’s been working well.
 

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Yes! Actually it’s been working very well. The only thing is that you have to either keep the keys out of range when the car is not in use or lock it. If the keys are just tossed in the seat, it will see it as being in range and activates the system and can drain the battery if the car sits for a long time.

Really like it, it’s been working well.
Thanks for the feedback! The reviews on amazon are all over the place.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
You mean the reviews like "Do not recommend buying this product. Smoke started pouring out immediately after wiring it up wrong and turning the power on."
The best one I saw was bashing a Craftsman 1/4" impact driver because it would not remove lug nuts on a pickup truck.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I was thinking all the same things that you all posted. You have to read through them and weed out most of them. A lot of them didn't even know what they are doing or how to do it.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Afternoon,
Disassembled the anti theft on the back of the ignition switch. Seeing that you have the power routing could this be setup as a simple switch? (Probably two switches an accessory power and an ON/START power)... It seems as if once you power the start sequence the ECU? Runs the starter. Not like in the older cars were you could grind the starter if you were to engaged the key after it started. Or am I looking at this wrong?
2B025023-CF5E-47E0-876A-A90DE67997CC.jpeg

THX,
Bruce
 

Attachments

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Good timing, finally got my push button start installed this past weekend.

Ended up using a different mount. If anyone would like Chad's mount already printed, happy to send it to someone that's going to use it.

One question, even with VATS disabled through HP tuners the key light is on on the dash, is this normal?
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Good timing, finally got my push button start installed this past weekend.

Ended up using a different mount. If anyone would like Chad's mount already printed, happy to send it to someone that's going to use it.

One question, even with VATS disabled through HP tuners the key light is on on the dash, is this normal?
Yes.
 

Peregrinus

Well-Known Member
Good timing, finally got my push button start installed this past weekend.

Ended up using a different mount. If anyone would like Chad's mount already printed, happy to send it to someone that's going to use it.

One question, even with VATS disabled through HP tuners the key light is on on the dash, is this normal?
If u have this printed I'll gladly pay for it and shipping, saves me the trouble of finding a 3d printer! Shoot me a pm
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Good timing, finally got my push button start installed this past weekend.

Ended up using a different mount. If anyone would like Chad's mount already printed, happy to send it to someone that's going to use it.

One question, even with VATS disabled through HP tuners the key light is on on the dash, is this normal?
I believe what is happening in the security system will still monitor and see things like the car is locked but if you press on the brake, it thinks someone has broken into the car since the system wasn't deactivated by the key. The VATS is disables to it doesn't stop the car from starting up. Just my thought. Ours is on all the time.
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
Does anybody that's done the key delete having an issue with the car now switching on after sitting for a while?
I wired it per the diagram in post 18 except I wired ACC and ON to the same switch cause it didn't seem necessary to have 2 separate switches. I'm wondering if this is my problem but thought I'd ask if anyone else is having any issues like this.
The system works great, no issues, except if the car sits for a few hours after shutting it off. I have to disconnect the battery and then hook it back up for it to work again. Mine's an '06 with VATS deactivated so I'm pretty certain that's not the issue.
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
Immediately after posting that I started messing around and it seems that if I flip the flashers on it let's the system work again. Seems quite strange but I think that definitely means it's BCM related.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
When you said that you wired ACC and On to the same switch, does that mean that you tied the BR and YE wires together? If so, I'm not so sure that's a good idea. If you don't want to use an extra switch and want to activate them both (actually I'm not so sure you even need the ACC), you can use a double pole switch, it's basically two switches in one housing. Kind of like this:

22359



But in the mean time, try disconnecting the Brown wire to the ACC to eliminate that circuit and see if that helps.
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
When you said that you wired ACC and On to the same switch, does that mean that you tied the BR and YE wires together? If so, I'm not so sure that's a good idea. If you don't want to use an extra switch and want to activate them both (actually I'm not so sure you even need the ACC), you can use a double pole switch, it's basically two switches in one housing. Kind of like this:

View attachment 22359


But in the mean time, try disconnecting the Brown wire to the ACC to eliminate that circuit and see if that helps.
That's correct, I just assumed since they get power from the same source that connecting them both to the same switch wouldn't be an issue. What does hooking them together do? I'll remove the ACC wire and see if that issue goes away though.
 
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