ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Don't get your hopes up on HP Tuners helping you with the different maps. No such thing, at least not in my car.
Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas
- Thread starter Ross
- Start date
JeffsGoblin
Goblin Guru
Looks like the beginnings of the batmobile!
Torchandregdoc
Goblin Guru
My custom 13" wide aluminum fenders arrived.
I ordered 2 extra long fenders so that I could cut them in half, and make 4 short fenders.
But I placed the long fenders on the front to see the "mad max" look.
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Do you mind me asking how much the fenders set you back? 305s won't fit under the ones supplied by DF, right?
I ordered 2 extra long fenders so that I could cut them in half, and make 4 short fenders.
But I placed the long fenders on the front to see the "mad max" look.
[ATTACH type="
Do you mind me asking how much the fenders set you back? 305s won't fit under the ones supplied by DF, right?
Ross
Goblin Guru
Well, I ordered online, but I wouldn't recommend doing that, as I ended up getting the wrong item, and had to re-order.
I would guess that they would cost $400ish if you phone them... but mine costed more for 2 orders.
Also ask about shipping, as that was a separate charge, and I thought it was included in the first estimate.
I would guess that they would cost $400ish if you phone them... but mine costed more for 2 orders.
Also ask about shipping, as that was a separate charge, and I thought it was included in the first estimate.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Adam / Lonnie,
I wonder if the 2nd O2 sensor could be welded in a new location, to serve dual purpose.
Since our cars don't have catalytic converters, I don't think it needs the signal from the second O2 sensor,
but the threads are the same as a wideband O2 sensor, which is useful for tuning engines.
The current location for the second O2 sensor is not optimal for an AEM wideband. They suggest at least 18" away from the exhaust port (to keep it from overheating), and at least 10 degrees from horizontal (so condensation drips off), but not vertical.
So my suggested location below is where I plan to weld a bung on the exhaust. Hopefully I have enough room to weld it there.
I wonder if the 2nd O2 sensor could be welded in a new location, to serve dual purpose.
Since our cars don't have catalytic converters, I don't think it needs the signal from the second O2 sensor,
but the threads are the same as a wideband O2 sensor, which is useful for tuning engines.
The current location for the second O2 sensor is not optimal for an AEM wideband. They suggest at least 18" away from the exhaust port (to keep it from overheating), and at least 10 degrees from horizontal (so condensation drips off), but not vertical.
So my suggested location below is where I plan to weld a bung on the exhaust. Hopefully I have enough room to weld it there.
Ross
Goblin Guru
2 Goblins at 1 race? Lets grow this trend!
Reaction motorsports autocross
OX-M class =Open wheel eXoskeleton Modified (with turbo or supercharger)
111 Jermey Harrison 2018 Goblin 241pts
69 Ross Lawrence 2019 Goblin 40pts
Saturday, August 24
8:00 am - 5:00 pm
Chaffee Crossing, Mahogany Ave. off Hwy 22, Fort Smith, Ar
Visit the Reaction Motorsports Events Facebook page for more details.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/ReactionMotorsportsevents/posts/?ref=page_internal
Reaction motorsports autocross
OX-M class =Open wheel eXoskeleton Modified (with turbo or supercharger)
111 Jermey Harrison 2018 Goblin 241pts
69 Ross Lawrence 2019 Goblin 40pts
Saturday, August 24
8:00 am - 5:00 pm
Chaffee Crossing, Mahogany Ave. off Hwy 22, Fort Smith, Ar
Visit the Reaction Motorsports Events Facebook page for more details.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/ReactionMotorsportsevents/posts/?ref=page_internal
Ross
Goblin Guru
Just learned from Kyle (a YouTube engine tuning channel) that they make a thermo isolating O2 thread in adapter to help protect the wideband O2 sensor from too much heat.
Perfect if you are running a turbo, or your O2 wideband sensor is too close to the exhaust port.
It will save me from welding a new bung on my muffler pipe.
Perfect if you are running a turbo, or your O2 wideband sensor is too close to the exhaust port.
It will save me from welding a new bung on my muffler pipe.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Anyone with an LSJ care to share a HP Tuners log file? I want to know what "normal" is for my LSJ.
I logged all the variables available in HP Tuners, in order to find which variables work, and which don't.
I am curious if my results are typical for an LSJ engine.
Engine Oil Pressure = 0. 0 PSI Do I have a dead or missing sensor?
Startup Intake Air = -36F This log file was made today, in an airconditioned shop, about 75F.
Fuel System #1 Status (SAE) = CL - Fault
LTFT PCM Control = off Should my Long Term Fuel Trims be turned off? I would think not.
Misfire History Cylinder #1 = 148 Should I clear the history data?
Trans Fluid Temp = -40F
Trans Current Gear = 2nd Doesn't work correctly. I used 1st to 4th, and the tach vs speed tells me when I'm shifting.
TCC Slip = 1700 RPM Um, it is a standard, with no Torque Converter.
Fuel Tank Level = 42.9 gal The Cobalt tank isn't even that big.
Fan 1 Status = Unknown: 3F
Fan 2 Status = Unknown: 3D
Fan 3 Status = off
I logged all the variables available in HP Tuners, in order to find which variables work, and which don't.
I am curious if my results are typical for an LSJ engine.
Engine Oil Pressure = 0. 0 PSI Do I have a dead or missing sensor?
Startup Intake Air = -36F This log file was made today, in an airconditioned shop, about 75F.
Fuel System #1 Status (SAE) = CL - Fault
LTFT PCM Control = off Should my Long Term Fuel Trims be turned off? I would think not.
Misfire History Cylinder #1 = 148 Should I clear the history data?
Trans Fluid Temp = -40F
Trans Current Gear = 2nd Doesn't work correctly. I used 1st to 4th, and the tach vs speed tells me when I'm shifting.
TCC Slip = 1700 RPM Um, it is a standard, with no Torque Converter.
Fuel Tank Level = 42.9 gal The Cobalt tank isn't even that big.
Fan 1 Status = Unknown: 3F
Fan 2 Status = Unknown: 3D
Fan 3 Status = off
Ross
Goblin Guru
The front slips thru the slots in the aluminum floor. The stock seat hooks need to be filed at the front to get rid of the front bump.
The rear uses 2 bolts to hold it in (No bolts shown in my picture). I did have to grind the outer sides of the seat's bolt support bar about 1/4" to make it narrow enough to fit between the frame.
The rear uses 2 bolts to hold it in (No bolts shown in my picture). I did have to grind the outer sides of the seat's bolt support bar about 1/4" to make it narrow enough to fit between the frame.
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Ross
Goblin Guru
I bought a new timing chain tensioner, which should be an easy replacement,
but I found a half a bolt in my head, that should be holding a timing chain guide.
Drill, (never) easy out, wish me luck. (Update: Don't remove the broken bolt, just buy the updated Dorman part to fix this)
Looks like the chain guide has no wear marks on it, so it either broke right after it was replaced, or the last owner left it this way.
I don't see the other half of the bolt anywhere... but I'll run a magnet in the oil pan.
All this, and a autocross that I want to go to on Saturday...
but I found a half a bolt in my head, that should be holding a timing chain guide.
Drill, (never) easy out, wish me luck. (Update: Don't remove the broken bolt, just buy the updated Dorman part to fix this)
Looks like the chain guide has no wear marks on it, so it either broke right after it was replaced, or the last owner left it this way.
I don't see the other half of the bolt anywhere... but I'll run a magnet in the oil pan.
All this, and a autocross that I want to go to on Saturday...
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DCMoney
Goblin Guru
Not a lot of risk of it jumping timing because of the bolt missing, that guide isn't putting pressure against the chain keeping it in time.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Yes, Ark 
, your engine pics inspired me to replace the timing chain tensioner. After removing the old tensioner, my chain skipped a few teeth on the sprockets, so I removed the lower engine cover, to reset the chain markers. Then I discovered the guide bolt issue. Luckily, Dorman has already made a better part, as this bolt was breaking on lots of EcoTec engines.
Originally the LSJ had bolt 1, and bolt 3 covered up bolt 1... but bolt 1 broke. Bolt 2 is the new Dorman 917-954, and is a lot bigger and beefier, and replaces both #1 and #3. Best of all, I didn't have to remove the old broken bolt threaded into the head. Just install the new bolt 2 thru the black guide.
, your engine pics inspired me to replace the timing chain tensioner. After removing the old tensioner, my chain skipped a few teeth on the sprockets, so I removed the lower engine cover, to reset the chain markers. Then I discovered the guide bolt issue. Luckily, Dorman has already made a better part, as this bolt was breaking on lots of EcoTec engines.Originally the LSJ had bolt 1, and bolt 3 covered up bolt 1... but bolt 1 broke. Bolt 2 is the new Dorman 917-954, and is a lot bigger and beefier, and replaces both #1 and #3. Best of all, I didn't have to remove the old broken bolt threaded into the head. Just install the new bolt 2 thru the black guide.
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Ross
Goblin Guru
Apparently you need a soft bump with a hammer to set the timing chain tensioner.
Today I purchased my 2nd tensioner, as the first one broke.
Also washed, scrubbed, wire brushed, sanded & painted the side panel to the engine, the valve cover, right engine mount, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and crankshaft balancer.
This is just a little maintenance that grew into more.
Should be able to make Saturday's autocross, if the weather cooperates this week.
Today I purchased my 2nd tensioner, as the first one broke.
Also washed, scrubbed, wire brushed, sanded & painted the side panel to the engine, the valve cover, right engine mount, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and crankshaft balancer.
This is just a little maintenance that grew into more.
Should be able to make Saturday's autocross, if the weather cooperates this week.
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