I've heard of people having to "bench bleed" their calipers which involves taking the calipers off the car, filling them with brake fluid on the "bench" as you might expect, and being able to shake them and gyrate them around to get any air pockets out of corners of the piston area. Then they are filled as full as you can get them on the bench and reinstalled on the car and bled in a normal way, either two-person or pressure bled.
I didn't catch it if you said it earlier, but have you been pressure bleeding or two-person pump-and-dump bleeding?
I doubt this is your problem because I dont think you'd get a pedal that slowly goes to the floor with air in the system, it'd just be spongy. Just thought I'd mention it though.
I've done 4 methods of bleeding, 2 person pumping and dumping, vacuum, pressure at the reservoir, and I recently added a bleeder that puts fluid in through bleed screw.
Put a pressure gauge in a brake caliper bleeder screw hole and measure the pressure. I can loan you one if needed.
Brad
Thanks Brad, I might take you up on that.
Started this morning by up plugging the drivers rear brake line, hooking it back up to the caliper, bleeding it, started the car, pedal doesn't sink to the floor.
Left it hooked up move the passenger rear caliper, bleed it, started car, didn't sink to floor.
Passenger front, same process, slowly sunk to floor, recapped line.
Drivers front, same process, didn't sink to the floor.
Want to swap the passenger rear caliper (not the bracket) with the front and see if the problem goes with the caliper before I just buy another caliper. It pretty much has too be it, but I hate just throwing parts at problems without testing.