Anks329 - Extended City - '07 LS - #190 REGISTERED

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
MAF codes are gone, that's good. Doesn't sound like it fixed your problem.

The one that worries me now is the P0507. It literally stated RPM Higher than Expected. Did you recently clean your throttle body inside? If not, may try cleaning it and then do a relearn by putting it in drive (with your foot on the brake) and let the idle come down and sit there for about 5 mins in gear. Also make sure you don't have ANY air leaks along the entire intake system. I had a bad one where the brake booster connects to the intake. Try disconnecting the hose to the brake booster and plugging that port to see if that helps.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Anyone else think this might have been causing the misfires :D
16600


I swapped them out with nice new spark plugs, so hopefully that should be addressed. Also, I went and re-tightened the vacuum brake hose connections again. While staring at the engine thinking what else I could tighten down, I realized that I might have skipped a step from the videos, and going back, I had. Right at the start of video 20 (
) some 30 seconds in, we're told to cap the intake port. I'm staring at an open intake port on my engine. :( No wonder I'm having issues! Next trip to the store will require getting some sort of silicon caps to close that port off. Also will grab some throttle body cleaner and clean that out as well tomorrow night. This should hopefully clear up the issues.
 

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
This was on my donor and will go on my Goblin. It's manufactured by AEM Intake Systems. The MAF sensod can not be put in backwards. The screws are offset and it can only mount one way. Also there is an arrow on the MAF (as shown) that shows the direction of flow. ON my setup the MAF is right next to the intake filter. The MAF needs an undisturbed flow of air so I believe that brass fitting just in front of it is not good. The breather goes after the MAF and not before it. As you can see there is breather port on the side that goes to the Valve Cover.

As I recall there is a rubber seal where the MAF meets the intake. I would make sure that is intact and not damaged. Good luck.
 

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Anks329

Well-Known Member
Hood and windshield installed last night:

IMG_5126.jpg

When I drive the car over ~40mph it's very twitchy and wants to skittle all over the lane. Is this an alignment issue or is it an overly sensitive power steering issue? If it's power steering, would it be possible to add in a manual switch that controls power to the power steering on demand? Would there be an adverse impacts to cutting power and then restoring power to the power steering while driving? Or is this something that I need to get used to driving?
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
what are your alignment specs? I ran less camber all the way around and less caster in the front, than is what is recommended. It seems fine up to 70 or so going down the freeway. I did -1.0 camber all the way around and (roughly) 8.5* caster.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Ok, I’ve rechecked my alignment (I followed the instructions in the forums) and my caster off in the front. Fixed that and I’ll go on a drive tomorrow morning to see how it feels.

I did get the hood and windshield installed, so looks much better now!

16703
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Woah.. fixed the steering issues, handles beautifully into the 60s this evening. Also the misfire and idle issues are cleared up. Here are current faults:

B2AAA: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web
P0036: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0443: Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P0449: Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit
P0452: Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input

Despite clearing the codes through Torque Pro, the CEL light stays on, guessing one of these above codes is causing the light to stay on. Is there is way to clear it? So it only shows up with a new actual issue. Would HP Tuners clear this up?
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to get my instrument panel up and working. When I turn on the car, the dial needles barely wiggle, the odometer sometime displays, but it displays no speed, rpm, fuel level, and the info and return buttons don't change anything on the display. I think the issue is low speed GMLAN, but beyond knowing potentially the issue, how do I fix this? It's the green wires that we solder together in the middle of the dash harness, right? Where is the other end of these wires? And how can I test that I've got this set up right?
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I know this isn't an answer to your question, but I think I can speak for everyone when I say "check your grounds"

Grounding or fuse placement has been the solution to almost every electrical gremlin I've had, which has been identical to your issue as well. Right now I'm chasing a faulty OBD2 port and I'm 99% sure its a fuse or ground somewhere because it worked last weekend.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
I know this isn't an answer to your question, but I think I can speak for everyone when I say "check your grounds"

Grounding or fuse placement has been the solution to almost every electrical gremlin I've had, which has been identical to your issue as well. Right now I'm chasing a faulty OBD2 port and I'm 99% sure its a fuse or ground somewhere because it worked last weekend.
Will check the ground again. But the rest of the car is running without issue. Could a bad ground just mess this one thing up, and let the rest of the car?
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Will check the ground again. But the rest of the car is running without issue. Could a bad ground just mess this one thing up, and let the rest of the car?
I've had several dash related issues trace back to a fuse that was sorta half-in, half-out and/or something else unplugged.

Although I'm not driving mine yet, I've come to learn that these cars electrics are finicky AF.
 

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
Very important - Be sure that you scrape off any paint (powder-coat) under the attachment point for your grounds. The ground must be metal to metal. Any paint under the ground will cause issues. Good luck.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
I've been trying to track down my panel issue. I've tested that I have continuity:
  • from pin 9 on the instrument panel to pin 1 on the data link connector
  • from pin 9 on the instrument panel to pin 38 on BCM 2
  • from pin 1 on DLC to pin 38 on BCM 2
BCM 1 is what is giving me problems. According to the alldata info (for a 2006 SC) and Chilton Library (for my 07 LS) I should have low speed GMLAN on pin 18 and pin 36 on BCM 1, but I've got nothing there; the pin is empty. So, tracing that further back, pin 18 should be connected to a "Digital Radio Receiver" and pin 36 should go to the VCIM. Neither of which were in the original donor car.

17198


So, what am I missing here? Should I wire pins 18 and 36 into the panel anyway? Or I saw elsewhere that the back of the BCM has a screw hole that should be grounded. Or is this a gremlin that coming from something else?


Thanks!
 

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
Really need to re-check your grounds. Be absolutely sure no paint (or powder coat) is under your grounds. Scrape it off. The ground itself will cover the missing paint. Some things can operate with a marginal ground and others will not. A good ground is critical.
 
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