Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

SACTX

Well-Known Member
My guesses

Too many **** holes

Added too much weight

Removed half as much as you thought and one quarter as much as you wanted.

Not nearly enough alcohol in the state to get you to stop dreaming of drilling holes in odd places of a Goblin frame :)
 
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SACTX

Well-Known Member
Ok, real guesses.

About 950 holes (there are so many it's hard to count them without crossing my eyes)
8 lbs removed in holes
15 lbs added before holes so a total of 7 lbs added
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Braving the record heat here in Arizona (35 days and counting at 110* or higher :eek:) I finally got around to modifying the brake booster mount to accept the 7 inch single diaphragm one I purchased quite a while ago. Had to weld shut the 'metric' booster mounting holes in the pedal assy and frame bracket to re-drill for the standard GM 'universal' 4 bolt mounting pattern, which is wider by 1/4 inch.

This new booster is 3 inches smaller in diameter than the Cobalt booster, weighs significantly less and will accept many different brake master cylinders - which can be better matched to the Goblin braking requirements. It also has more under hood clearance for the cockpit air vent mods I made to the underside of the hood. I haven't decided the brake master cylinder yet, but looking at some aluminum Corvette disc/disc units - with chrome cap. ;)
I have been researching brake master cylinders for a while, that would match up to my smaller brake booster and have a large enough piston to get the correct geometry for the expected pedal feel that I'm looking for. Took a chance and ordered one for a Chevy Astro van - has the correct mount spacing, piston engagement face, and is the correct piston size (1.125 inches). The one thing I was concerned with was the overall length to fit into the space between the face of the booster and the top rear edge of the radiator - I measured it at just a hair over 7 inches.
Got it in this afternoon and it fit perfectly for face engagement and length, right at 7 inches. The stock reservoir will have to go - not sure about a remote mount for it - but adapting an aftermarket one shouldn't be a problem.
Overall, the smaller booster and aluminum master cylinder saved about 2 pounds over the Cobalt pieces. BTW, at some point, after getting everything fitted for my new setup, I will have the Cobalt setup - booster, master cylinder, reservoir, DF adapter parts - available to go to a new home. ;)
 

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
If you click on the icon I highlighted in the picture, it adds the post to your forum bookmarks. Just another tool for stashing information for later reference.
I’m on tons of forums that all work differently. I find my method easy as I can do a simple term search without even being logged in, as well as share it with others.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Why not just go full manual brakes?
For the same reasons we went to the moon - We do this and the other things not because they are easy, but because they are hard'. Wanted to try to install a different power brake setup from the stock Cobalt setup that is lighter and with better feel. No one else has done this that I know of, so those are the things I do, so other can benefit. :D
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
Hey buddy, just wanted to pop in and say hello. Really excited to see your completed build. I may not have my goblin any longer but I still swing by to check status from time to time. Hope all is well
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Thanks to those who played the contest, got some good guesses, many very conservative (which is quite understandable). The values I came up with for the holes are based on the metal thickness x number of holes to get a 'length' of an equivalent steel bar for each hole diameter: Then determined how many cubic inches are in the steel bar x .285 pound per cubic inch of steel to get a weight.
5/8 = 7.53 inches = 2.31 cu in
9/16 = .48 inch = 0.11 cu in
1/2 = 45.70 inches = 8.97 cu in
7/16 = 50.72 inches = 7.20 cu in
Total cu in = 18.59 x .285 = 5.298. lbs (rounded up to 5.3 lbs)
I weighed the radiator support - along with the steel sheets/piece I added - before and after - to get a weight loss of 1.5 lbs for it.
On top of that, I removed many of the brackets I will not be using, which weighed a total of 1.1 lbs.

Contest actuals for the basic frame and radiator support only:
Number of holes - 639
Weight added - 18.7 lbs - cage bars and cross bracing (without holes)
Weight removed - 7.9 lbs
Net gain - (+) 10.8 lbs

Contestant list of correct guesses for the frame and radiator support:
K.Rollin - Speedholes correct answer
Classy - number of holes - 485
SACTX - weight added - 15 lbs
SACTX - weight removed - 8 lbs

Going further and adding in the mods to the subframe and motor mounts:
Number of holes - 278
Weight added - 0 lb
Weight removed - 2.47lbs (rounded up to 2.5 lbs)

Total number of holes - 917 (so far, with more to total up)
Total weight removed - 10.4 lbs
Total net gain - (+) 8.3 lbs

More to come on this, shooting for a break even on the weight to offset the frame mods. :)
 
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Hey buddy, just wanted to pop in and say hello. Really excited to see your completed build. I may not have my goblin any longer but I still swing by to check status from time to time. Hope all is well
Rich, good to hear from you. Hope your doing okay now and that you're winning the fight. :)
I still have a long ways to go on my build, but making some progress every day I get to spend in the garage. We are still overt 100 during the day - yes, it is October - and the weather hasn't decided it's Fall yet.
Since you've up in the great white north, maybe it's time to build a Goblin AT?
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
Rich, good to hear from you. Hope your doing okay now and that you're winning the fight. :)
I still have a long ways to go on my build, but making some progress every day I get to spend in the garage. We are still overt 100 during the day - yes, it is October - and the weather hasn't decided it's Fall yet.
Since you've up in the great white north, maybe it's time to build a Goblin AT?
I have to stay away from 2 seater things from now on, plus with our type of offroad in alaska the A/T doesn't have nearly the clearance I need. We run a lifted ranger crew that has tractor tires and lockers all around and we still get stuck. Bought some remote property about 1.5 hours north and will be building a cabin. Accessible by snowmachine or ATV only, really nasty terrain and swamp
 
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