My stage 1 GM sensor was bad that I received from ZZPERFORMANCE it was showing high IATS put gm stock one back on it works like it supposed to went from 156 down to 82I started it up today and pulled codes after driving around for about 15 minutes. Got some new interesting codes here..... Removed the evap/AC/ABS codes.
I"m wondering if one of my new GM Stage 1 IAT/TMAP sensors is bad? Right now I have 2 of the same sensor that ZZP sells as a kit, one in the lower charge pipe with brass fitting provided by DF and the second matching sensor in the intake manifold.
The MAF code is there because it won't run for more than a second or 2 with it plugged in
And finally the most interesting part the P2301..... I've actually never had this prior to "Upgrading" the fuse to 30amp from 15amp. The car still runs and drives fine and the coils are obviously working fine still, so i'm looking at this error strongly.
Nuker-
0x544: U2113 (Current, Old, History)
0x544: U2129 (Current, Old, History)
0x544: U2172 (Current, Old, History)
0x7E8: P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit (Pending, Current, Old)
0x7E8: P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High (Pending, Current, Old)
0x7E8: P0571 - Brake Switch A Circuit (Pending)
0x7E8: P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Light Control Circuit (Pending, Current, Old)
0x7E8: P2301 - Ignition Coil 1 Control Circuit High Voltage (Pending, Current, Old)
It is a brand new battery, the voltage looks good on that, But where is the voltage regulator at? Where do I check it. That is not a bad idea since it seems every **** problem I have is high voltage everywhere!Probably just a crazy thought, but have you checked voltage with the car running to make sure that the voltage regulator isn't bad and you are getting extremely high voltage.
Conversely, a week battery can cause all kinds of crazy dtc's to pop.
Interesting, But my tune is specifically for the GMS1 sensors so I would have thought a stock one would not work? I guess I can go buy one and confirm!My stage 1 GM sensor was bad that I received from ZZPERFORMANCE it was showing high IATS put gm stock one back on it works like it supposed to went from 156 down to 82
Just check the voltage at the battery with it running, should be around 14-15 volts at the max. It's also possible that the new battery is bad but doubtful it's causing this problem.It is a brand new battery, the voltage looks good on that, But where is the voltage regulator at? Where do I check it. That is not a bad idea since it seems every **** problem I have is high voltage everywhere!
Nuker-
14.53v at idle so that seems good too bad haha.Just check the voltage at the battery with it running, should be around 14-15 volts at the max. It's also possible that the new battery is bad but doubtful it's causing this problem.
Kinda high for idle. What happens when you give it some throttle? Watch it closely and don't let it go above 15-16v14.53v at idle so that seems good too bad haha.
Nuker-
If you think there is a chance that your alternator is overcharging the system maybe you should yank the alternator belt off and do some testing. As long as you don't run your headlights or restart your engine too many times you should be able to drive for a while without the battery getting too low.
Maybe the alternator's internal voltage regulator is malfunctioning. Too high of voltage through the electrical system could probably cause all sorts of things to act wierd.
No it does not have that, and I believe I remember reading only the LSJs had those. I was actually hoping that the wiring would short out somewhere in between and not at the coil itsself!I didn't really agree with changing the fuse for a higher current rating. The fuses are there to protect the wiring, not necessarily the components. The coils are the source of the short circuit and they are what are blowing the fuses without a doubt. I understand you are having a hard time figuring out why they are going bad (and only the one).
Also, does your engine have this ground strap on the driver's side from the block to the valve cover? I'm not sure if those were on the LNF engines. I doubt that has anything to do with it, but just trying to think of everything.
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Make sure to check the gap and correct them to specs. Sorry, I don't know what it is for the Cobalt.I'll go buy a full set of plugs tomorrow with the new coil just to eliminate that, This is madness and breaking my head!
Thanks guys,
Nuker-
Everyone for the SS TC seems to say .035 so thats I'll just grab the ACDELCO iridiums already gapped at that tomorrow.Make sure to check the gap and correct them to specs. Sorry, I don't know what it is for the Cobalt.