More Alignment Questions - At Home Method

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Like may here. A cheap digital angle gauge (like Ross posted) and toe plates can do everything.
How do you square the whole system up with the toe plates?
Or are you running a setup with spacer that makes the all four wheel the same distance (L/R front distance = L/R Rear Distance). Because, right now my setup has wider front L/R distance than rear L/R distance.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Toe plates just do the front and rear wheels separately. If I'm understanding you question correctly. I've never had much luck getting consistent results with toe plates. I have the quicktrick alignment setup which aligns on the rims and still don't trust it.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Toe plates just do the front and rear wheels separately. If I'm understanding you question correctly.
Yes, you understood the question correctly. My method with the string, takes all 4 wheels into the equation so they (hopefully) are in the same general direction. I just assumed that the toe plates worked in a similar method. It sounds like they do not. I'm not saying this method is wrong, I just do not understand it well.
If using the toe plates and doing front and rear independently, how do you ensure you are getting both ends pointed in the same direction?

This topic has definitely strayed from my original intent/question but lets keep it going. Hopefully, someone in the future will find it as a great resource for deciding what method they want to use or if they just want to pay a Pro to do the job.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I used toe plates and my car tracks straight, both coasting and under power. That being said, I plan on checking my alignment soon (reads: once it warms up enough to work in the garage) using the string or another method. I am trying to find someone with a rack, as I think that trumps all DIY methods.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
with toe plates, you get the front close to pointing straight and then set toe. All it really affects is steering wheel position. Depending how close it is to pointing straight to start with, you would typically lock the steering wheel straight and adjust both wheels equally from there. I would say you need a string line or professional alignment first before using toe plates.

Back wheels are sorta the same thing except you can attempt to use a straight edge to measure off the frame for initial set.

I would consider toe plates more for adjusting a straight car than doing the initial set up.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I am trying to find someone with a rack, as I think that trumps all DIY methods.
I feel the same. A alignment rack with readout is the stuff. But they also costs, so that up to the person to decide if close is close enough or if they need it dialed in.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
How do you square the whole system up with the toe plates?
Short answer; a lot of measuring.

long answer and to answer the other questions;

I have the QuickTrick alignment stuff, toe plates and 3 or 4 different digital angle gauges.

just setting toe, start in the rear. Setup the toe plates and get them to 0. Then, measure from reference points on your tire to the frame. You can also use a 2x4 going forward and make reference points at the frame or even the center tower. If toe is 0 and your reference points are equal, you are at “center”. Then adjust your toe in equally to the desired Specs.

the front gets tricky because there’s a steering wheel. Do the same with reference points and “eyeball” to get to 0, then make sure your wheel is straight. And add desired toe in.

you can make a piece of plywood your toe plate for quick stuff. 2 measuring tapes (identical) and a digital angle gauge can do it all.

setting camber
Zero angle gauge on the frame, then place it on the toe plate or a flat part of the wheel.

Front caster
Zero the gauge on the center tunnel going front to back, then move to the back side of the front hub bolts.

every time you take a different measurement, you’ll have to zero the gage as your reference point. This is the most basic of ways, but it is more accurate than you think.

I can explain a little better later, I’m a little short on time at the moment.
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Of the three settings - caster, camber, and toe. Caster is probably the least important. If you followed the assembly of the helm joints in the arms, your caster will be close.
Get the camber set. Make sure the toe is good.
I was a little intimidated by the DIY alignment at first. Don’t be. You can do a great job easily and quickly.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Re-aligned Drago over the weekend. I ended up just using my iPhone to get the front camber at about -0.5 degrees on both sides. The passenger side was almost 3 degrees at the start and the drivers at 1.5 degrees. Also, I pulled the toe in back a little to 1.0 mm (0.11 degree) to in from 1.25 mm (0.15 degree) using the string method in the video I posted (OP)
Just driving with some spirited driving up the mountain I live on, it feels a lot more stable. I'm going to keep playing with the settings over time just to see what I like and don't, but I like what I have right now. Very predictable and much, much less darty. It wasn't too darty before, but it did have a little here and there.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The Cobalt EPS can add to the dartiness feeling, since it is reported to provide too much assist by most of our tracking veterans. A future option may be installing a Vue/Equinox EPS steering unit with an adjustable assist to help with the steering feel. Several builders have installed it and report a much better driving experience. :D
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
If you didn't check your caster, that might be part of the remaining "dartyness". And it may also be bumpsteer.
 
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