Recent content by KingChuck24

This issue ended up being resolved a while back I just never posted the reason. The ecu ended up being completely fried and had to be replaced. My mechanic ended up figuring this out after getting his head close to the ecu to try to find wiring and he smelt something burnt. It ended up being...

I didn’t get many great photos of it while it was still on the car but here they are. some of the photos are from before I sanded and polished and I still need to do more especially with the splitter in its current state.

Hello everyone it has been quite a while. Life got in the way and honestly I have been procrastinating making a post. The issue of the car not starting and many of the electrical issues has been fixed (not all but at least it runs and drives). I dropped it off with my trusted mechanic and he...

Haha no I am testing voltage with the battery connected.

I think I am going to call up my friend and see what he thinks, he might know someone else too that could help in person. Kind of a crazy idea that probably wouldn't work but the Chevy dealer probably knows the ins and outs of the cobalt so if they somehow accepted to service it they could maybe...

Just saw your response Gtstorey. The thing is I am not very good at understanding all of wiring but I think I will give it a go. I do have a friend that owns a shop that is pretty good with electrical stuff and if I really cannot figure it out I might end up dropping it with him.

Did some more testing this morning and this is what I found: I am getting continuity between c4 d1 and c4 d8 even when the battery in unplugged. I thought this should not be the case as it would need to be in the run position. I couldn't find a way to test the theft resistor or at least could...

Went out and checked a couple more things: First off the 2 amp ignition fuse is still blowing, I feel like this must be the core of the issue. How bad would it be to put in a higher amp fuse, I would assume something would get hot? When the 2 amp fuse blows there is no power to the green...

Went to the salvage yard today and picked up a "new" bcm. Plugged it in and turned the key and got the anti-theft again. Tried to do a key reprogram but it did not work again. The one thing that did get fixed was the rear passenger brake light being always on because it was ungrounded. It now...

Ok so with only c4 in test continuity between the screw holes on the bcm and the wires coming out of the ignition. The actual case of the BCM is plastic and the only metal part is the screw holes.

With all of the plugs unplugged there is no ground from any of the ignition wires. Not sure what you mean by short to the case, if I had one probe on the ignition wire where would the other one go? Going to look around for a new BCM tonight.

I visually inspected the harness and nothing seemed to be off. However, I did not cut it open. Should I cut it open all of the way from the ignition to the bcm and see if there is anything wrong? Also they all get continuity to there expected pins on the BCM so I am not sure. In terms of a new...

VATS only good C2 only good C4 only blows the fuse

It does not blow when they are all unplugged. The dash also does not get any power.

With c2 unplugged and the TDM in it blows, with TDM unplugged and c2 in it blows, with both unplugged it also blows. Does this mean its neither of these modules?