Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC

JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
My dad had an old saying "stop borrowing trouble from tomorrow". Sometimes we overly worry, over think, fret way too much. It's all just little stuff, right?
A few bolts, a small amount of wrestling and the trans is off the engine block. Boom.

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JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Pulled apart the clutch. The friction surface was pretty thin. At some points even with the bolt heads. Definitely time for a replacement. If it was original, it had 82k miles on it.
Placed an order with ZZP today. I went with the Clutch Masters stage 3 clutch. It is a slight upgrade to the stock. I also opted for the aluminum flywheel. Got the replacement clutch pipe and elbow as well. The throw out bearing was pretty loose and made a little noise. Replacing it as well.
All this is fairly easy at this point. Making progress!
Adam says my kit is about two weeks out. I should have ordered earlier than I did. Oh well. Loving every minute of this!
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Motoracer110

Motoracer110

Well-Known Member
looks great! good call replacing the clutch. I did as well and it was amazing how worn out the old clutch was. I'll be interested to see if you are able to get your throw-out bearing off pretty easy. those little teeth on the 3 bolts were terrible for me. I ended up stripping 2 of the bolts and had to then use a mini dremmel disk to cut and fold the heads and twist them out
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Interesting. I used the SAAB/Lonnie method of striking them lightly first. No problem at all getting them off.
I am digging around for all the proper torque specs of the slave, flywheel, pressure plate, trans housing to engine block, etc. Also, where if any should loctite be used. Anyone that has already completed this have those handy?
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Valve cover gasket came today. Sunday delivery! What did we ever do in the old days...... Mine had a light leak around the trans side of the cover. Removed the cover and everything looked fairly clean after 82k miles. Sure looks like they could have put another bolt on the cover in the middle on the trans end. Long span there. Had to do a bunch of careful wiping of the sealing side on the head. And the vacuum hose on the exhaust side that no one can remove easily without tearing up the locking tangs inside - I just left it connected and flipped the cover over while cleaning and replacing the gasket.

For all who have a similar valve cover with the two sensors on the accessory end - READ THIS BEFORE BEGINNING!!!!

The sensors are not sealed against the valve cover, it passes around them. You need to blow out, or vacuum out all the grit and debris immediately around them BEFORE removing the cover. I failed to do so and had to meticulously clean up around the bases of the sensors all while the entire valve train was exposed - rookie mistake. See first two pics below. Pretty nerve racking looking at grit and sand an inch away from the beautifully oiled valve train lying wide open to the world. I fired up the shop vac and carefully dislodged the grit with the sucking end of the vac hose an inch away. Worked pretty well, but no one else needs to make the same mistake as me.

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JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
A little bird told me there are now some official "Goblin Gurus" statuses among us........ :)
Gotta appreciate all the positive info and help from those kinds of guys!
Here's a slap on the back and an "atta boy" to all of you Gurus!!!!!
 
KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
JBINTX said:
The sensors are not sealed against the valve cover, it passes around them. You need to blow out, or vacuum out all the grit and debris immediately around them BEFORE removing the cover. I failed to do so and had to meticulously clean up around the bases of the sensors all while the entire valve train was exposed - rookie mistake. See first two pics below. Pretty nerve racking looking at grit and sand an inch away from the beautifully oiled valve train lying wide open to the world. I fired up the shop vac and carefully dislodged the grit with the sucking end of the vac hose an inch away. Worked pretty well, but no one else needs to make the same mistake as me.
Click to expand...
I think many people (myself included) that's new to the platform wouldn't have thought of that. So, I don't think I would even call it a mistake. Good to know though!
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
I took an hour or two today to upgrade the T8 fluorescent lights with LED in my garage today. Holy moly! I wish I had down it years ago! I got so tired of replacing stupid fluorescent bulbs. I think they only last about 100 hours. The LED's are so much brighter and whiter. I have no idea why I avoided changing them out over the years. These new LED bulbs went right in place of the old T8's. I did have to remove the ballast and reconnect the wires directly. Took about 10 minutes each fixture. Well worth it, though. 12 bulbs on Amazon for $80.
They say in a manufacturing environment that upgrading the lighting can have a positive impact on the workers morale. I guess I am even more excited now to get my kit from Lonnie and Adam in a week! Hurry guys!! Morale is up!! :)

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KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
I'm working out of a 2 car garage, I also did some lighting work prior to starting this project. I only had 2 small incandescent fixtures. I can't imagine trying to do a project of this scale without good lighting. I bought 4 - 4' chainable 110V plug in fixtures. So, I could easily take them down if/when I move in the future.
 
Lonny

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
We have been replacing all of our lights with LED s, It is cheaper, brighter and uses less electricity.
 
Murcielago311

Murcielago311

Well-Known Member
I got some Amazon LED fixtures for Christmas. Would have been really useful during disassembly but I'm looking forward to actually being able to see during assembly.

Before it was two single bulbs lighting this three-car. Lol.
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JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
You were WAY under lumened with only two bulbs!
I think it is safe to say that one can NEVER have too much light in a garage!! :)
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Waiting on my kit has left me with a little time to sit and wonder about some things.
The Turbo exits the compressed air toward the top of the engine. The intake manifold has the infow pointing down. Is there a way to flip the intake over to make the plumbing more direct and shorter over the top of the engine? Would it make a difference? Has it been thought of / attempted? Looking at the bolt pattern, it is NOT symmetrical, so that would have to be addressed. Are any of the sensors tied to the orientation?
Do I have too much time on my hands to ask goofball questions?????
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Jason, the intake ports are asymmetrical and the direct injectors on the TC LNF engine are also in the way of trying to flip the intake. I suppose a custom intake could be made that would accomplish this, but the stock intake is not possible.
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Desert Sasqwatch said:
Jason, the intake ports are asymmetrical and the direct injectors on the TC LNF engine are also in the way of trying to flip the intake. I suppose a custom intake could be made that would accomplish this, but the stock intake is not possible.
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I knew I was asking one of those "you dummy" kind of questions. :) Engineers go through those phases sometimes before arriving at a new and better solution. Maybe that better solution is already bolted to my engine ;)
 
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