JBINTX
Goblin Guru
car cover may be easier and quicker when towing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSTV8LF/?coliid=I3UO0H5S5KHCJT&colid=OXOOK3RQKH5W&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)
- Thread starter Ark :D
- Start date
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSTV8LF/?coliid=I3UO0H5S5KHCJT&colid=OXOOK3RQKH5W&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Today was a nice day outside so I figured I'd fix a mistake I made a month or two ago. I had my wheels/tires stacked on top of each other in my garage, and I stupidly used that as a "table" when I was de-rusting a bunch of hardware with Metal Rescue. I spilled some of it when I moved the pan I had all the hardware soaking in, and it dribbled down the inside of the wheels. I didn't realize how badly it would mark the wheels at the time, but it sure did. So I took the back wheels out, used abrasive aluminum cleaner and a 3M scuffing pad, and scrubbed the marks off, then re-polished them. Turned out pretty good.
Tomorrow, I'll do the fronts, then I'll piddle around seeing what else I can do while awaiting the next wiring harness video.
*edit* Finished them up today so here's a completed pic, instead.
Tomorrow, I'll do the fronts, then I'll piddle around seeing what else I can do while awaiting the next wiring harness video.
*edit* Finished them up today so here's a completed pic, instead.
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Small mistakes are bound to happen, and when they can be remedied with a little work and not $$$ that is a good thing. The wheels look great. 
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Take advantage of the nice weather you know as well as me mother nature is most likely not done with us in PA yet
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
No doubt. Almost 70 degrees tomorrow though. Makes me wish the Goblin was done!
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Through Bradr, I acquired an adapter that will replace the ignition switch and key with a simple push-button mechanism. How it works (without getting too deep into it) is, there's two leads coming from the adapter; you apply ground to one of them to set "ignition on" status, and you apply momentary ground to the other one to turn the starter.
It would be easy enough to simply wire in a push button and call it a day, but then any joker could hop in the Goblin, push the button, and make off with it.
One option could be to wire in a kill switch on the "ignition on" ground, hide the switch, then toggle it off any time you walk away from your Goblin, but I don't care for that either. Security through obscurity, and all that ... not a good practice. (I will be wiring in this kill switch regardless, but it cannot function as the only security in lieu of the keyed ignition)
One small detail is, any future push-button solution will require Bradr's other currently-in-development device, to disable PK3+ aka. VATS, in my 2008 SS/TC. 08-10 TC's use the Bosch ECM, in which PK3+ cannot be disabled by HP Tuners. Those with donors from 05-07 (and possibly 08-10 LS's as well, I am not sure) can just go the HP Tuner route. But I can't.
All that being said, in my Amazon shopping cart currently is some stuff to develop proper security for the push-button starter. I'm not sure I'm going to go on this without Bradr's PK3+ disable actively being in my hands, but the price isn't high so I might just do it for the experience. I will need other odds and ends (some wires, a case, maybe a breadboard?) but yeah.
It would be easy enough to simply wire in a push button and call it a day, but then any joker could hop in the Goblin, push the button, and make off with it.
One option could be to wire in a kill switch on the "ignition on" ground, hide the switch, then toggle it off any time you walk away from your Goblin, but I don't care for that either. Security through obscurity, and all that ... not a good practice. (I will be wiring in this kill switch regardless, but it cannot function as the only security in lieu of the keyed ignition)
One small detail is, any future push-button solution will require Bradr's other currently-in-development device, to disable PK3+ aka. VATS, in my 2008 SS/TC. 08-10 TC's use the Bosch ECM, in which PK3+ cannot be disabled by HP Tuners. Those with donors from 05-07 (and possibly 08-10 LS's as well, I am not sure) can just go the HP Tuner route. But I can't.
All that being said, in my Amazon shopping cart currently is some stuff to develop proper security for the push-button starter. I'm not sure I'm going to go on this without Bradr's PK3+ disable actively being in my hands, but the price isn't high so I might just do it for the experience. I will need other odds and ends (some wires, a case, maybe a breadboard?) but yeah.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out tonight.
That's basically exactly what I want to do, but RFID and by extension, NFC seem to have shorter range than I would like. I don't want to have to drop a fob or something into a holder, or whatever.
*edit* Watched the video. I like the guy's approach, and it makes RFID a little more palatable to me. He coded it so once the proper RFID is scanned, he has a 7-second window in which to push the start button. This keeps his mechanism a little cheaper than mine due to not needing a BLE beacon.
That's basically exactly what I want to do, but RFID and by extension, NFC seem to have shorter range than I would like. I don't want to have to drop a fob or something into a holder, or whatever.
*edit* Watched the video. I like the guy's approach, and it makes RFID a little more palatable to me. He coded it so once the proper RFID is scanned, he has a 7-second window in which to push the start button. This keeps his mechanism a little cheaper than mine due to not needing a BLE beacon.
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I am sure some have already considered this, but I have a few issues with the approach shown in the video above:
- Can't restart vehicle quickly from a stall (manual trans)
- Still allows the ignition to be turned on
- Still allows the vehicle to be stolen via bump start (manual trans)
- Still requires a separate ignition switch to "turn on" the car.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
I personally plan to use a BLE beacon being in proximity as the condition for the ignition to even be turned on, with a mechanical switch of some sort acting as a "circuit breaker", or master kill switch, for the ignition. Of course, I will watch with interest as you develop your next unannounced project. =)
Zoom Zoom
Goblin Guru
Hi Ark. My car 189 I was supposed to be picked up today but because of the epidemic, Wasn’t able to do that so they are shipping about 5 of us cars in Fl. Ga. S.C. through Stewart Transport
So my question is can you tell me where you bought your clutch and valve cover gasket, main seals
Thank you very much.
P.S. The turbo tube came off pretty easy I took the idea you told me about zip ties and used pieces of metal seals truckers use to seal there loads , Cut them in about 2 inch pieces and stuck around the tube and pried off with a big screw driver I just messed up the 4 little holders but bought a new one from Amazon already.
Charles Boggess
So my question is can you tell me where you bought your clutch and valve cover gasket, main seals
Thank you very much.
P.S. The turbo tube came off pretty easy I took the idea you told me about zip ties and used pieces of metal seals truckers use to seal there loads , Cut them in about 2 inch pieces and stuck around the tube and pried off with a big screw driver I just messed up the 4 little holders but bought a new one from Amazon already.
Charles Boggess
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
On the topic of my push-button, BLE-enabled ignition system ... I've received all of the above stuff I ordered from Amazon, and started messing with coding and uploading said code to the ESP32. I've got it working pretty well so far, so I'll go ahead and order a few more bits to create an actual test, rather than just some serial output on the screen.
But, here's what I've done so far;
What you're seeing is the code on the ESP32 looping. Every loop consists of the ESP32 scanning all available Bluetooth/BLE MAC's, until it finds one that matches my hard-coded beacon MAC or until 30 seconds pass, whichever occurs first. Once the loop completes, the ESP32 writes a string via serial to show that a loop has completed, and a quick enumeration to express how many different Bluetooth/BLE MAC's it detected during that loop, even if they are not matches. If a detected MAC matches my hard-coded MAC, it exits the loop immediately and displays notice of a match, and the RSSI (signal strength) of the matched MAC, with "lower" negative numbers indicating a stronger signal.
In the first screenshot, you're seeing the output while the BLE beacon was out of range, then more while I slowly went and moved it to within range.
Then in the second screenshot, you're seeing the output while the BLE beacon is sitting right next to the ESP32.
Pretty good proof-of-concept, at least?
But, here's what I've done so far;
- Taken the MAC from the Innway card and hard-coded it into my ESP32 code
- Installed Ardiuno IDE and all the necessary libraries/modules to get it talking to my particular ESP32 board
- Taught myself enough, and looked up enough examples, to create some functional code
- Moved my BLE beacon around enough to test said code
What you're seeing is the code on the ESP32 looping. Every loop consists of the ESP32 scanning all available Bluetooth/BLE MAC's, until it finds one that matches my hard-coded beacon MAC or until 30 seconds pass, whichever occurs first. Once the loop completes, the ESP32 writes a string via serial to show that a loop has completed, and a quick enumeration to express how many different Bluetooth/BLE MAC's it detected during that loop, even if they are not matches. If a detected MAC matches my hard-coded MAC, it exits the loop immediately and displays notice of a match, and the RSSI (signal strength) of the matched MAC, with "lower" negative numbers indicating a stronger signal.
In the first screenshot, you're seeing the output while the BLE beacon was out of range, then more while I slowly went and moved it to within range.
Then in the second screenshot, you're seeing the output while the BLE beacon is sitting right next to the ESP32.
Pretty good proof-of-concept, at least?
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