Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Put on the new front springs, leveled the front A arms (with the weight of 2 people in the car).


Drove it 10 miles, MAF tuned the engine twice (only a few % out of tune).
The new springs feel the same as the old ones, but the nose of the car doesn't drop to the ground under hard braking.
The starter didn't work, but new clue: the BCM relay was clicking when I tried to start the engine, so it isn't the ignition switch.
The dash was working about half the time, and I think that is what is preventing engine starting.
Luckily HP Tuners works fine even though the dash isn't.

Ross, please let us know how your new front springs work out, after you have some more miles on them. I like the way progressive springs behave on a daily driver - cushy in the first part of their compression and stiffen up before you can bottom out.

 

[Ross]

Tracing the GM Low Speed LAN wire, to help debug my 2006 dash gauges issue.

Most of the dark green wires get connected together for the low speed LAN.
You will need to keep these green wires:

On the late model Cobalts the GM low speed LAN has these 5 wires:
1. OBD-II port (Pin A)
2. Theft deterrent module (Pin H)
3. Remote control door lock receiver (Pin M)
4. Instrument panel cluster (Pin D)
5. BCM (Pin C)

On my early model Cobalt it has these 4 wires:
- OBD-II port Pin 1
- Instrument cluster Pin 9
- BCM C2 pin 38
- PCM C1 pin 16

On the LSJ, one dark green wire does not get connected.

Instrument cluster Pin 9 Dark Green goes to Data Link Connector (DLC) Schematics
Instrument cluster pin inspection:

DLC Schematics goes to BCM C2 pin 38 (link may need info) (C2 is one of the 72 pin Grey blocks, nearest the driver side when in a Goblin, vertical connector)
BCM C1 18 went to the radio receiver (not in Goblin)
BCM C1 36 went to vehicle communications interface module (VCIM) (not in Goblin)

BCM C2 inspection for bent pins:

PCM C1 pin 16 Dark Green goes to DLC Schematics, Computer/Integrating Systems (C1 is the Blue connector on the PCM)
PCM C1 inspection:

extra stuff:
BCM C1 22 GY/BK is left front door ajar switch grounding signal. (needed for bradr's magical goblin interface)
2006 Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) doesn't use the GM Low Speed LAN
MAP sensor has IAT2 going to the PCM, C1 (Blue), pin 14, L-BU Light Blue (I want these in my HP Tuner log files.)
MAF sensor has IAT going to the PCM, C2 (Black), pin 51, TN Tan

 

[Lonny]

Early and late gauge clusters are not interchangeable. They have different wiring.

Just an FYI for everyone.

 

[Ross]

Well, acetone was too strong of a cleaner for leather Cobalt seats, as I cleaned thru the blue, and found black.

So I bought some Angelus blue leather paint, and finisher. Today was the first light coat. Needs multiple applications.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ooh, not acetone. That will take all of the essential oils out of the leather and it will dry out and it could crack. Get some leather conditioner on it as soon as you can.

 

[Ross]

In order for the paint to stick, the leather has to be super clean, and free from oils. So rubbing alcohol is the recommended cleaner to remove oils and conditioners. After the leather paint is done, I will replenish the leather conditioner.

 

[Ross]

Anybody have issues getting into 2nd gear when shifting fast with the F35 tranny?
I wonder if my syncros are worn... if I shift normal speed, no issue, it is when I really want to beat that car beside me that I can't get into 2nd.

 

[George]

The second gear has two syncros to help prevent that. If clutch is releasing correctly. I had trouble with my stock type
clutch disc with 8000 rpm shifts.

Brad

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ross, please let us know how your new front springs work out, after you have some more miles on them. I like the way progressive springs behave on a daily driver - cushy in the first part of their compression and stiffen up before you can bottom out.

Ross, any feedback on your front springs? Has been a while and I'm wondering how they work on your Goblin?

 

[ctuinstra]

Anybody have issues getting into 2nd gear when shifting fast with the F35 tranny?
I wonder if my syncros are worn... if I shift normal speed, no issue, it is when I really want to beat that car beside me that I can't get into 2nd.

You may try bleeding your clutch again just to make sure it's disengaging all the way all the time. Doesn't cost you much more than time.

 

[Ross]

The dual rate front springs work great. The nose of the car doesn't drop on the road like before, and I needed a stiffer front springs (to balance the car), but the ride quality feels like the old soft springs. Best of both worlds!

So you guys can speed shift into 2nd, no problem? I'm thinking that 197K miles of unknown abuse may be related to well worn syncros.

 

[ctuinstra]

So you guys can speed shift into 2nd, no problem? I'm thinking that 197K miles of unknown abuse may be related to well worn syncros.

Not that I have ever noticed.

 

[Ross]

I've been wanting to install my new injectors for many months, but have not been happy enough with the stock engine being fully bug free.
The new exhaust header went on last winter, and my tuning has going a little astray. I noticed a small exhaust leak, so today I took it apart.

Leak #1, the head's exhaust port:

The header with gasket on:

Leak #2: The other side of the header where it joins the muffler also has a small leak:

Leak #3, the underside of the muffler has a leaky weld between the pipe and the muffler, not far from the wideband O2 bung.

So no wonder my wideband and narrow band O2 sensors were hunting for the correct mixture. Hopefully some exhaust silicone can fix all these leaks, and seal up the exhaust!

 

[Ross]

The Chevy subframe is too heavy, so I cut a hole it in to save weight. (I agree with Tim)

And then I filled the hole with a 1.25" receiver tube. Just needs to cool down enough to paint. Heightwise, it is flush with the frame, and doesn't hang out as far as the frame on the rear corners, so I shouldn't knock my shins on it.

 

[Ross]

So Ian and I were approaching the rail road crossing, when Ian says "Bet you can't get air."

Well if you win the bet, you get to walk home, get a tow vehicle, and order one of these:

So far it didn't stab into the transmission far enough, and I'm having difficulties taking it back out.

For those of you that know my son, Ian, here is a video of him playing:

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

So the acorn doesn't fall too far from the oak tree....crazy is as crazy does! We all have that crazy streak and have done things like that and spent $$$ to fix that brief lapse of sanity! It's all good!

 

[Ross]

Anybody have issues getting into 2nd gear when shifting fast with the F35 tranny?
I wonder if my syncros are worn... if I shift normal speed, no issue, it is when I really want to beat that car beside me that I can't get into 2nd.

Justin Reed has this issue too. I haven't noticed it is rpm related, but I bet that is what is plaguing my shifts when I get excited.
Instagram excerpt:

• • 
    justinreedracing
    
    LSD F23 goblin soon coming to a street near you! This has been long overdue. Shoutout to @dfkitcar for the swift process in making new F23 mounts to make this easier
    
    
    amack1970
    
    How come the F23 and not the F35?
    22hReply
    
  • • 
      justinreedracing
      
      @amack1970 it’s been locking me out of gears at high rpm since day 1. Time to go to something proven

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Should have bought an F40.

 

[George]

I had issues at high rpm (have 8100rpm redline) Switched to a six puck disc with solid center. Problem solved.

Brad

 

[Ross]

Justin chose the F23 over the F40 because it fit in his frame. I would imagine that Justin is already running a puck clutch, as it can handle high horsepower.