Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
That is one tight course!!
And he actually could have shaved a little more off for a faster run too! :)
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
So I bought a Longacre tire pyrometer, and tried to get my Hoosier slicks up to a normal 170F temp. Gave up after 5 laps.
27556
27557


Also got to drive a Toyota Supra. Dang... it is fast. Oh, and I drove a turbo Exocet too.
27558
 
Last edited:

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Them Miata’s are fast. :eek:


yep. We are too light to heat them up where they need to be, in those short runs.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
My kick guards arrived, I needed to drill one hole bigger, and notch the electrical hole.
Then I discovered that mirror bolts aren't long enough, as I had trimmed them when installing the mirrors.
Guess mirror set #4 will be the ones to get kick guards with aero wings.
27669
 

dastrups

Well-Known Member
I think it was a multiple issues that all came together to create a hopping mad max goblin.
I bought the softest frame DF makes (city, extended, easy entry) and then put big wheel spacers and tires on it.
Took an old donor with worn out wheel bearings, worn out shocks, put those parts on, then went to the autocross races, and drove it aggressively.
So a bunch of decisions created the braking issue on the autocross course.
So I had a pretty bad wheel hop episode the other day when I panic braked. I have been kind of testing the brakes since to see if I can recreate that. I think it happens when I jab the brake super hard. It’s almost like I have to gradually load the front before I mash the pedal in order to not get a slight wheel hop. I’m trying to solve the issue now. I wonder if it has something to do with me being over sprung on the front with 500’s. I have a manual brake setup so not sure if that has anything to do with it. Brand new hubs and brakes. I also wonder if it has to do with having some drastic offset on my wheels. Justin Reed has the same wheel setup but with 5.5 in backspace rather than 4.5 in. Not sure if he had any of those issues. Probably going to start by switching to 300’s on the front and reduce negative camber. Wheels would be my next guess.
 

Attachments

dastrups

Well-Known Member
Just looking at the picture makes me think it has to be the wheels sticking out that far past the caliper/rotor causing some funky torsion under hard braking. Thought I might gain some track width by going with a higher offset but maybe not the best idea.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
I’m curious if it’s the massive positive scrub radius causing it? Positive scrub drastically increases the affects of bumps and steering feel. With such sticky tires on the front, slamming the breaks causing them to lock and the tires want to stick to the ground, but with the front so light and the positive scrub radius it just hops.

I’m curious what would happen if you switched to less sticky tires or added 100lbs to the front end. We all know @Ross had this issue and has since modded the hell out of his front end chasing the cause. Maybe even alter the front spring angle using a custom bracket of some sort that would allow you to move the top of the spring down to narrow that positive scrub radius
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Since you have a track frame with 3 door bars, I doubt this is the same issue I had. My frame was city frame with easy entry, extended, so it was the weakest frame DF offers.

See if you can tuck those front wheels in more... scrub radius. And how soft do you have the rear? My rear shocks were pretty worn out too.
 

dastrups

Well-Known Member
You guys are amazing. I had no idea what that was but found a great video. Definitely a part of what is going on. I’m more prone to just buy a new set of front wheels with 1 inch more backspace to get that scribe radius close to zero
 
Top