The two of you are using different nuts. @Devo is using strut nuts from the donor, and you look to be using nuts supplied with the kit hardware or sourced elsewhere. The donor hardware is much taller than what you're using.
I used eyebolts as anchors at either end and ran 1/8 inch wire rope with thimbles and aluminum ferrules. Covered the sharp ends of the cable with heat shrink tubing. The tools I used were $30-ish online.
I just combined my running light wire with my low beam wire going to the headlights, so my setup is high, low/running, and ground; front turn signals run to the side mirrors. I used the JW Speaker model 6130 IIRC, but if I was starting over or wanted to redo the headlights, I'd use the model 8632.
I don't have that experience because I always wear a full face helmet, and as long as I don't open my visor while fueling, people don't try to tell me about how cousin's ex-boyfriend's sister's college roommate was building a twincharged buggy out of their old Neon
My radiator was marketed as a replacement for the 5th & 6th generation Honda Civic. My petcock leaked a little bit this past summer; turns out the o-ring had dried out and broken. Replaced the o-ring and no more leaks.
I've got torque seal all over my steering, suspension, and brake fasteners to help with visual verification that nothing has come loose or been tampered with.
You'll need the handle assembly, cable guide tubes, and the front parking brake cable (threaded into the handle, with a floating splitter thing on the opposite end) if you are planning to use the DFKC parking brake kit.
The small black clips are brake pad wear indicators. When the pads wear enough, the clips will rub on the rotor and make an awful racket. You don't actually need to install them if you do regular inspection and maintenance of your car.
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