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Yeah, that got my attention also. Mine is not a dune buggy in MO. I’d have to look to see what it is for sure. It’s been awhile.

We used one of those and mounted it in the tunnel cap towards the front. It was easier there because I already had the original wiring to the original outlet in there and that was all the farther the wires would reach without having to extend them. Besides, it wasn't something we needed easy...

Here are the files if you can print them. If not, there are some, including myself, willing to do it for a small compensation. http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/custom-stl-files-for-3d-printed-goblin-parts.2174/post-92874

Stock

There are a lot of really good designs for printing in this thread. Here is another. A version of a center console for mounting on the tunnel. This is made for two phones and a key fob with extra room for other stuff. Here is flat-bottom version of our original design. This works well...

I finally got around to installing the new DF Shifter, just in time for the October meet up. I took the car our tonight to test it and my adjustments. Wow! I really love this thing. Sitting in the garage, you can tell it feels a little bit better, but on the road is where you really notice...

TCS is traction control, to keep the wheels from spinning. This is not to be confused with ETC Torque Management, that is controlling the torque applied to the output based upon the commanded torque versus RPM. It basically tends to smooth out the torque deliver. The 2.0 SS I based this...

Unfortunately I cannot help much with a different ECM. If you are asking about TCS and the method, I would set it to enable at the max temp (400F) and then disable all of the methods, Spark, Fuel, and ETC, just to be sure.

The double square headlights are usually the Rigid Industries Pods (D-Series). We used them. Flood as low beams, and Spots as high beam. Works great!

There is no way to bend the float rod in order for it to be accurate with both full and empty. You would have to straighten out the rod and it doesn't work inside the tank without hitting the baffle. Maybe the new plastic tanks are different. We made ours like Desert said, accurate on empty...

Here is 1-hour drive log of mine that shows it also goes into OL periodically. I always assumed this was for a test, most likely the second O2, but now it sounds like it's pretty proof positive. I never worried about it because it didn't seem to cause any drivability issues. The UP/Down...

How long of a drive are you doing for the data gathering during tuning? I was doing really short drives, sometimes just a minute or two and having problems with my tune bouncing all around. Then I started making drives for 30+ minutes or long and got a lot better results. The more cell hits...

This is only happening when you are forcing it to stay in Open Loop? So it’s only when trying to tune it? It may be simply that it’s not happy about something being forced in Open Loop, which is not its normal state. I wouldn’t worry too much about it unless it’s happening in Closed Loop...

That spike is in the stock tune. I chalked it up to a boo boo at the factory. Also never worried about it since the stock setting, and my current setting, is to use the VAC chart and not that MAP chart. So it never comes into play. If I felt that I needed to use that chart, I would have...

You may be able to filter out the commanded 10 AFR data so it doesn't effect your tune data. I wouldn't worry a lot about it unless its happening during a normal tune. It maybe the ECM trying to run a test.

Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse you. I was speaking in the general sense, and later realized that you meant it was happening specifically during a tuning session.

I wonder if it was cat protection kicking in for some reason. Especially with the O2 sensors disabled. Just a thought. I see mine command lower than 14.7 from time to time, but not 10. It does it for no real reason, just out of the blue it will command like 12.5 for a short time, and it's...

You shouldn't be in Open Loop other than during a cold start and should only last a short time. Upload your full tune and if you have a scan log of the event.

I have a boost referenced fuel system. I'm not running 80# but I am running 60# injectors. This is my tune at the moment (for the most part). You should have to tune the VE table and the MAF from here. You'll run a bit rich with this tune, but should be a good start.

They are the Rigid Industry - Dually. I don't believe they make that exact model anymore and have gone to the D-series and D-Series PRO Here is one that is still available on Amazon...