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this combination did not work for me. uncertain what the piston bore sizes were... rear are from donor and the front are from DF... I think the problem was isolated to the bad combination of the booster and master cylinder not matching exactly. the latest development is in the aesthetics...

paired with a [Raybestos MC391187 Professional Grade Brake Master Cylinder] from Amazon that was categorized to fit a 2010. I am pretty sure at this point it was a mismatch on the dimensions as well as the engagement point between the two...

The brake booster was from user: Desert Sasqwatch The master cylinder was from RockAuto... unsure if I could specify which year and trim, many assumptions were made on my part. I'll be putting them both in the classifieds once I do confirm which trim they are.

I think the issue is resolved at this point... simply ran to the local pick-your-part and grabbed a matching cylinder and booster. I would say that the theories about the cylinder being sticking too far into the booster are probably correct.... I did try and isolate the wheels but the condition...

a couple STLs for headlight mounting... lost previous model of what is currently mounted. The problem with the current draft is that the headlights interfere with opening the front bonnet. at the moment, the headlights have to swivel out of the way to access the front opening swing. wanted to...

did not think to check brake temps after coasting.... my brain has been turned mush recently by my job, ha ha. will give this a shot once i have time to take it out for a test drive. just as a request for a sanity check.... it shouldn't matter if the Non-SS booster is mated with an SS cylinder...

OK,so... further updates show that problem persists where something is slowing the car down. I've already did a flush and fill for the Transmission, the drained fluid looked somewhat dark and not a lot of metallic shimmer, maybe a good sign. Having did the flush and driven it around the block...

Ok. So problem solved ... The problem was not surprisingly between the steering wheel and the seat. LoL. So I forgot that the calipers are required to be reset after the work that was done. I never thought to reseat the pads and push back the calipers. Rewinding the rear Solstice calipers was...

Yupe! I went searching and found that post as well & that was one of the first things that I went to check. I also double checked the emergency handbrake being too taught... Neither of these things have been the smoking gun though. I'm also noticing that the brake lights stay lit even...

with the rear alignment complete, i took it out for a test to check reaction and drive characteristics. found that the brakes are being activated just enough to drag and cause the brake lights to enable. i thought it may have been the booster misaligned but it looks ok and straight I have no...

Evened up forward straight edge measurement to 32 and 1/2 each Toe plate measurements Front plate 68 and a half rear plate 68 and 3/8 Edit ... measuring before jamming bolts front plate 68 and 1/8 Rear plate 68 and 3/8

Posting from dictation on mobile Distance from front of straight edge to center tunnel is 32 and 3/4 for both wheels Toe plate measurements Front tow plate is 68 and 3/4 Rear tow plate is 68 and 1/8 Split the difference and you got 5/16 Attempting it to get 1/8 toe in Edit. New toe plate...

Of course a flush & brake bleed is recommended as the system has been exposed to the air, and in my case exposed to a high humidity condition that may have caused the problem of having fluid in the Booster. https://youtube.com/shorts/7yi6G1w7__4?si=PS2f5yMz3r1-JYFx Not sure if the brake fluid...

As a side note, always remember to put the fittings on first BEFORE setting the flare... I've stumbled so that you can fly :p I made the mistake of attempting to do a bubble flare and it is NOT recommended... took an educated guess that the master cylinder port needed a double flare since it...

With the components set and everything matching thus far, its time to prep for flange work really all that is needed is just cutting off the flared ends of the existing lines to replace the fittings. I didn't grab a picture but a mini pipe cutter tool (~ 9$) would work well... link from a quick...

unfortunately I do not have pics of the Early model brake assembly package... From RIGHT to LEFT the following items will need to be sourced from either parts store, ebay, or a local junk yard... Late Model Bracket - about 1/2" thick squarish peice that WILL stabilize the booster when used...

As mentioned in build instruction videos there are difference between early and late model master cylinders and respective supporting components. The late model has a smaller gap between the ports for the reservoir... this will not matter much aside from having the correct adapter. Swapping...

I noticed that the two top ports looked different when inspecting the part on arrival... Both ports have the rubber o-ring like structures Grommets in them that the reservoir fits into, but forward port [seen with the two holes on the right ] looked like it had this in the bottom of it. My...

ok so, all of the parts in hand, and still unable to proceed... small hiccup you'll understand in a moment unless you've been over on the Brakes section of the forum lately (early May 2024 Brake Line Fittings) TL;DR - trouble finding a spacer; found in junkyard along with new fittings cut out...

So I have the new M.C. in hand, and found it to be ~3mm smaller in diameter than the Non-ss early model M.C. without realizing that the reservoir as well is different, I thankfully saved the early model reservoir and will re-use it. now its just a matter of getting the supporting hardware...