Search results

I had an issue where if you cycled the lights it would allow the vehicle to start but would not start without cycling the lights. I kind of wish I left it as this would be a great 'anti-start' mechanism. Fuse #8 Ignition Switch/Pass Key was the culprit

Update, those LED’s work that I linked.

If it’s a SC SS donor you can use my AllData link. It’s in my signature.

I ended up ordering this: https://a.co/d/drweNUm The bulb looks like this:

It has 12V5W on the bulb but no other numbers.

I went every night for a few hours. This gave time to ask question and get answers before moving on to the next video. Watching the next days video before moving forward helped a lot too. I can't remember how many time I watched the whole wiring videos but it was a lot. Edit: Even with all that...

Any one have one of the dominator lights apart that they can see the bulb size on the running light (not main headlight)? I can pull mine apart but was hoping someone had theirs easily available and apart that they could just pull the bulb size from. Mine are blown and need replacing ,maybe with...

I did the same thing @LLBenJ except went to the lower control arm as the DF tow kit utilizes the one you did. I also got longer eye bolts to allow me to bolt through the splitter further up.

Pictures of yours? Could be you drive in a very pebble heavy area?

45% of people have come back and said completed would be a better statement. I’m sure there is a good 10-15% that don’t bother with the poll.

Can’t you just omit the reverse lockout? I did on my stock unit and the groupbuy shifter doesn’t have it. It’d be really hard to go into reverse unless the DF unit is a lot easier to hit reverse than stock?

1000% agree with this!

100% agree with getting the diode on #7 wire. I had the run-on issue, the diode solved it.

This is what I did the second time I pulled the pan. The first time I fought around the frame and it was a pain. Plus it messed up the gasket seal material.

Only pull it if you want to sell it.

I had a set and couldn’t tell any difference. Went back to OEM and still couldn’t tell a difference. Only reason I tried them was they were cheap on one of the FB Ecotec groups.

Anyone running these? How’s the grip and lifespan. I’m happy with the current Kuhmo v730 except them wearing out so quickly. I understand I won’t get 20k miles but is 2-3,000 normal? We did do some hard cornering at Goblinfest this year.

I saw one at our Cars & Coffee. It was nice to see firsthand, looks even better in person.

Check out a BAC Mono https://www.bac-mono.com/

Not in my experience. I’ve had multiple 15+ year vehicles, with sunroofs and none of them leaked. If there was water, it was the drip tubes getting clogged. All you had to do was run a straightened out coat hanger down the tubes. Granted, these all were Honda’s and our current Toyota.