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Would you consider swapping the supercharger plus get skme6extra cash? I have one working just fine but not ported.

Here are some pictures. Have to reroute the wire below... looks a bit chaotic. LOL

Push

I made myself a roof out of sunbrella. I wrapped it around. I have to redo the tension strings, but will post a picture ASAP.

Quick question, if I just remove the water pump chain. Leave the balance shafts and water pump installed. Do I have to worry about the oil pressure due to the balance shafts not spinning or the chain tensioner having no chain to press against?

Got some headway on the EWP controller. Program is almost done. Working on calibration of the sensor at the moment. Ran into some RAM issues with the Arduino. I thought I could just record the values of the analog input and save the temperature values in a 2D Array, but ran out of RAM. Used an...

Maybe also a read out how many Amps the pump is drawing. All of that displayed on an e-inc display.

Internal yes, external no. The water pump I bought has 4 connectors, 12V and ground. PWM and ground. I believe there is no external MOSFET necessary. It should have an internal one. I have to find out which voltage and frequency the PWM needs. I wasn't planning to change anything on the...

New pigtails for the water sensor arrived. I measured 2.7k at room temperature and around 300 ohm at operating temperature. Seems to be a standard NTC resistor. Have a new sensor coming Tuesday and will use that to calibrate the arduino.

Electric coolant pump came in today. Glad that the size works with the coolant hose used in the Goblin. Still waiting on some other parts.

What I meant is the problem with the cylinder at the end of the fuel rail running lean is a problem which can be avoided by putting a brfps at the end of the fuel rail.

No, you are all good. Fuel Pump, fuel rail with injectors, then brfpr is ok! Boost reference fuel pressure regulartor behind the fuel raul. That's what I meant. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

How many miles had the old clutch?

Could you measure how deep from the top of the block the water path around the cylinder goes down? Then if you compare that to the distance from the top to the bottom of the port where the mechanic pump feeds in the block, that could be an indication that all water which goes in the block must...

OK, thanks for keeping an eye on the water path and help to solve the myth. Once you posted the head picture you clearly can see the water path. I assume your current theory is that when the engine is cold you only have flow on the head? I'm still not sure if the #1 just gets the head return...

True, I just wanted to avoid that other builder think they can, in a stock set up eliminate the rubber loop. What @Gtstorey said is actually a proof that my idea with blocking off #1 was terrible.

I think with the EWP, removing the thermostat and having the oil cooler in the rubber loop the water could go out the orange opening of the thermostat, then through the oil cooler and get into #1. The coolant would flow backwards in compare to the stock water pump. That makes sense. I will...

In a stock set up the rubber loop is still necessary.

I honestly think my idea with blocking 1 isn't good at all. Do you have a Tee which connects the big coolant hose and accepts a smaller one from the oil cooler?

I assume the second picture is one where the hole in the white circle is drilled? OK, I think now I understand what you want to do with the Tee. I guess, judging just by the different diameter, if I just remove the thermostat and connect the oil cooler to the rubber loop it should work...