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They definitely act the way they look. Game changer.

Also forgot obviously the alignment matters lol. Learned that one personally.

What springs are you running in the front and back and how many clicks from soft are you running? Suspension can really change the handling characteristics but yes these being mid engine they will want to oversteer more than a normal front engine car. I run 400/300 springs front/back and 2...

I’ve looked at the bronze Konig hyper grams before. Light and look good. I think they have both 17x9 and 17x10.

Stock cams. Just 82 pound springs to prevent float on old stock springs. I had a lifter hold a valve open before when I got them back together so it’s another sign to just get new ones.

I’ve borescoped the cylinder and it looks fine. Full compression can back and the valve moves freely. I had a hiccup with the lifers before but I don’t know if that would directly cause a broken spring.

Good news! I took the cam follower off and tapped the valve to clear it just in case. Regained compression, leaving me to believe the lifter overextended and locked and caused part of the issue. Gonna get a lottery ticket later probably.

Valve spring let go on the exhaust side. They’re only a month old and I was easy on them the first couple rides. Installed heights were all close so I’m not sure if it was just a lucky one. Now trying to find out if the valve is bent, burnt, or seat is knocked.

Not a fun update. car left me stranded last week and barely idles. Compression test shows cylinder 3 with ZERO compression but the piston looks ok from the borescope, and the other three holes have 170ish psi compression. Hoping a lifter is stuck high and a valve didn’t burn.

Corner balancing absolutely helped. Total weight without me is 1630. With me in the car it’s 33/66 front to back. Had to play with the springs a bit but now it seems like they are way more even.

I can try that again to make sure. The car is about a year old now with plenty of miles on it. I forgot to mention that sometimes it feels like it hangs up on the left wheel unless I pump the brakes like the piston sticks. The pins moved when I took the apart last month so I don’t think it’s...

Anyone else have one side lock up first? Seems like my front left will lock up way too early or at least before my right. I switched the pads around just to make sure one set wasn’t glazed and the fluid isn’t dirty. Wondering if I need to rebuild or just source new calipers being little single...

My bad lol I might have only put it in the description. I went from 260-279hp and 316-330 lbs of torque roughly. The last run went up to 6.1-6.2k rpm and still held decent power to my surprise

Finally got the tune close to sorted out. Dyno runs are pretty fun picked up 20 horse with a little less boost and bumped timing a bit up top. Peak power is about 5500 but it only drops 2-3 hp up to 6100. It doesn’t feel like it falls off now.

I did the same time. Made a bracket for it in the small spot next to the fuel tank and engine. I wired the arm voltage to my accessory button so I can turn it on or off. I’m not tuning it up to always have it, but it’s nice to clean out the intake and help stay cool with autocross runs.

I’m going to try to run the car with right channels tomorrow and see if I can get it closer if it doesn’t rain. If anything see if the percent gets closer.

So would the cl fault just be from being lean? Unless my table I made is wrong again I’m confused about the -90 percent on my scan. That would also make a lot of sense considering the b1s2 “holds” 460mv even though it doesn’t exist.

I have a multimeter but I’ll have to see if it has smaller ends to fit in the plug. I guess the fan might be shorted but I don’t even know if my wiring was correct the whole time. The video shows one coolant fan wire and I had two when I got the harness. It wasn’t linked in to the 30amp fuse block.

Thanks that helps one at least. I have a short somewhere or in the pcm. It’s odd since it still recognizes the sensor since it goes to OL once I unplug it and when it’s back in it returns to cl fault.

Going through interesting issues. 1. Coolant fan has never kicked on even with the start temp set at 192. I may have wired it wrong being that I had two different blue wires leading to the fuse box? Neither of them had any power even once the car was hot enough to kick on the fan. 2. O2 sensor...