Well, another setback... :( I was looking at the video of the engine/transmission install and checked my mounts. The engine side seems to be right but the transmission side doesn't come close to the holes on the transmission.
I guess that the two manual transmissions are mounted differently...
It was assigned by DF as a build order. I.e. mine was the 20th chassis built. No marks that I know of. Adam posted a build order for the first (and second?) production run but to my knowledge, did not continue to share that info on the forum.
You might ask Adam/Lonny if they know what...
I suggest the chassis number?
PHerder
Chassis #20
Wheels: 16x7 Silver w/Machined Lip ASA AR1 +38 4x100 both front and rear, 18 lbs.
Tires: 205/55ZR16 Toyo Proxes R888 for all four
Seats: NRG® FRP-310 - FRP 310 Series Racing Seat, Medium
How about a square steel tube in place of the steel strap that goes under the floor board? I haven't looked into sizes and you would lose some ride height... but I was thinking about a 1" square tube?
Too big for what I would think e-brake cables would use (comparing to my Stalker build, at least).
So, there are two of them? :confused: Sorry, but NADA clue what they are for. Maybe some kind of support for your new radiator support that the older kits don't have?
Could it be a connector for parking / e-brakes? I.e. the cables from each wheel go to the outside holes and the cable to the e-brake handle goes to the center?
Put a ruler to it to give us some sense of size.
I have since changed mine to reflect what Adam posted and the camber is MUCH closer to being right now. Before, with the bottom upright mount the wrong way around, the camber was extremely negative!
YMMV. ;)
All my RC stuff (LOTs of airplanes, a couple of multirotors and 6, 450 size helicopters) are electric. I do have one nitro helicopter that is ~ 40 years old! It was my first and I rebuilt it after it's last "flight" (crash) to hang in my area to remind me NEVER to try to fly helicopters again...
IAW another thread, I have changed out all the bolts to pass thru the upright like the picture Adam posted (page 6 of this thread) shows and changed out the bottom mount reversed from how I first assembled it. The angle of the hubs (camber) is a LOT closer now that I have the uprights assembled...
Interesting... Adam must have edit that post after I had read it since I don't remember seeing that picture!
Looks like I will be disassembling the front control arms, oh yet again, to correct the assembly! :confused:
Next question would be did the PO change out the transmission for one behind a 2.2l because it was cheaper/more available (after blowing it up? :confused:)
There should be an info plate on top of the transmission that states it is a LSD... Note it also lists the FDR at 4.05.
The MM5 (as far as I can find) just means you have a manual 5 speed transmission parts...
or as another web site posted:
Not to mention that you do not have the 5 speed...
You can always add the Chamberlain MyQ WiFi door opener to whatever opener the MyQ supports. That is what I added to my Overhead door openers. It not only lets me open/close the doors (I use it on my single and double garage doors) but it also sends me emails/notifications when a door is...
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